Building a stainless steel gas tank questions..

[abadsvt]

Hey Kid, that was exactly what i was looking for. Thank you so much for all that! It cleared up alot about what the internal baffeling looked like. I wasn't sure. So just have the bottom corners cut off and a little below the top allows enough space for the fuel to transfer efficiently? How much of the corners do you roughly cut? Also I was told that you should make the areas where the fuel pump and sender mount too a little thicker so that way you get a good seal. Does that sound correct? What size of vent tube do you use? Now about the fuel pump and sender unit. For an LS1 motor how much LPH should one want? Will any intank fuel pump work as long as it pumps enough LPH's and is the correct hight? I noticed that there was a difference in prices. Some where low $100's and others were $300. Just want to make sure i don't buy the more inexpensive one and then later on down the road find out that i should have bought the more expensive one. Also were do you get sending units? Same question on that. Is there ceartain ones i should get and ceartain ones i should stay away from? I really haven't looked into fuel pumps and sending units but I thought i would ask. Thanks again for all the help.

Josh

[49studebaker]

You most likely will need something like 45 psi, The throttlebody on my 95 Z71 only requires 15 psi, but I don't think you want one of those. I would think the best way to go is to buy the GM part from a dealership. The pump, sending unit, and both fuel lines are all on the same flange. May be rather spendy but I think it will work better than putting everything together from scratch. I believe that is what Fuel Cell Guy is installing in the tank he is building me.

[piecesparts]

There are a lot of outlets for fuel pumps. Heck even Street and Performance sells them and their price beat GM, the last time I looked. Look into Speartech's website, for more info.

[Kid]

Originally Posted by abadsvt

Hey Kid, that was exactly what i was looking for. Thank you so much for all that! It cleared up alot about what the internal baffeling looked like. I wasn't sure. So just have the bottom corners cut off and a little below the top allows enough space for the fuel to transfer efficiently? How much of the corners do you roughly cut? Also I was told that you should make the areas where the fuel pump and sender mount too a little thicker so that way you get a good seal. Does that sound correct? What size of vent tube do you use? Now about the fuel pump and sender unit. For an LS1 motor how much LPH should one want? Will any intank fuel pump work as long as it pumps enough LPH's and is the correct hight? I noticed that there was a difference in prices. Some where low $100's and others were $300. Just want to make sure i don't buy the more inexpensive one and then later on down the road find out that i should have bought the more expensive one. Also were do you get sending units? Same question on that. Is there ceartain ones i should get and ceartain ones i should stay away from? I really haven't looked into fuel pumps and sending units but I thought i would ask. Thanks again for all the help.

Josh

1. You could prob. cut as little 1/2" of each corner, but I cut about 1.5" measuring from the corner.
2. I weld a 1/4" plate to "tap" into for the sending unit (tank walls are .125")
with 18 g. stainless, I suggest some form of backup for more support at the pump & or sending unit locations. This could make your stainless tank a little more complicated (expensive)
3. I weld in 3/8" pipe bungs for vent. This allows the customer some options on what size tubing for vent. I use 3/8" tubing on my instls.
4. Be sure to use a pump designed for YOUR fuel injection set up.
5. for carb set ups, I buy my gage senders from "Yogies" cost about 25.00 each, for injection, most of GM's "in tank" fuel pumps have the sending unit incorperated along with a shroud that keeps the pump submerged in fuel, I prefere the factory pumps, not cheap, but you can get them from a good salvage yard for about $150.00
Hope this helps Josh.

[abadsvt]

So for example if i am going to go with an ls1 motor then i should install an stock ls1 intank pump and sending unit. Is that what you are saying? Or atleast then i can know what amoung of fuel they require and then go from there. Thanks for all the help and propably next week i will start designing and building my tank. I will post some pics in my build thread. If you can keep an eye out and let me know how i am doing. Thanks alot

Josh

[72armyswbtruck]

Man, has this thread been helpful, building a gas tank and getting to fellow Kansan's closer

[Kid]

lookin foward to checkin out your posts abadsvt. I think any fuel pump from a LSX set up will work (5.3, 6.0, LS1) I think you want about 60 to 65 PSI.
For my 51 (with 5.3) I used a in tank pump from a Trailblazer with a 5.3.

[PBFAB.COM]

Josh-
I would go with an external pump... the amount of diminishing life span (vs. an internal pump) is minimal, if any, and the headache it will save you is priceless. You will need a pump that puts out 60+ psi and a regulator. They make some trick ones (I want to say aeromotive) that are adjustable and can mount by the tank. The return line comes right out of the regulator and keeps the install clean (by eliminating a long return line).

[49studebaker]

Originally Posted by Kid

1. You could prob. cut as little 1/2" of each corner, but I cut about 1.5" measuring from the corner.
2. I weld a 1/4" plate to "tap" into for the sending unit (tank walls are .125")
with 18 g. stainless, I suggest some form of backup for more support at the pump & or sending unit locations. This could make your stainless tank a little more complicated (expensive)
3. I weld in 3/8" pipe bungs for vent. This allows the customer some options on what size tubing for vent. I use 3/8" tubing on my instls.
4. Be sure to use a pump designed for YOUR fuel injection set up.
5. for carb set ups, I buy my gage senders from "Yogies" cost about 25.00 each, for injection, most of GM's "in tank" fuel pumps have the sending unit incorperated along with a shroud that keeps the pump submerged in fuel, I prefere the factory pumps, not cheap, but you can get them from a good salvage yard for about $150.00
Hope this helps Josh.

Originally Posted by abadsvt

So for example if i am going to go with an ls1 motor then i should install an stock ls1 intank pump and sending unit. Is that what you are saying? Or atleast then i can know what amoung of fuel they require and then go from there. Thanks for all the help and propably next week i will start designing and building my tank. I will post some pics in my build thread. If you can keep an eye out and let me know how i am doing. Thanks alot

Josh

I agree with your realizations that at times, depending on application, factory GM parts are the way to go. There is no doubt in my mind other stuff will work and possibly be cheaper, but for ease of installation/application to a specific motor I'd go GM all the way. You will know the fuel pump will feed the engine correctly, the fuel line will be proper size, as well as the return line.

[FarmTruk]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Josh-
I would go with an external pump... the amount of diminishing life span (vs. an internal pump) is minimal, if any, and the headache it will save you is priceless. You will need a pump that puts out 60+ psi and a regulator. They make some trick ones (I want to say aeromotive) that are adjustable and can mount by the tank. The return line comes right out of the regulator and keeps the install clean (by eliminating a long return line).

Yep...what Porterbuilt said. This is my thinking too...although...I have never attempted to install an LS1 in ANYTHING. I can vouch for the less headaches if/when a time comes to work on yer pump. An external is SOOO much easier. There are alot of trick pumps out there.
remember...

P.S. If you are not looking for opinions on this issue, please disregard this post. It is your truck after all. And it sounds like a KILLER set-up.

[abadsvt]

Originally Posted by FarmTruk

P.S. If you are not looking for opinions on this issue, please disregard this post. It is your truck after all. And it sounds like a KILLER set-up.

No worries! I like to hear what other have to say. Sometimes it helps you think outside of the box!

Josh

[abadsvt]

Well I know that an external pump would make my life easier, but after all, if i wanted easy i wouldn't have decided to build a complete truck including a custom tube chassis for my first ever build. The main reason i would like to use a internal pump is mainly because i would like to keep the underside of my truck as clean as possible. I am going to try to run all the wires for my truck inside the frame and would prefer not to see a the pump. Now with that said, since this my first build, if an external pump could be located in a spot where it wont be seen or in a really clean spot I am all ears. I would like to see some pics though. Thanks for all the help!!!!!!

[piecesparts]

The fuel pump game is a touchy one. The sellers of fuel injection products support the use in "internal" pumps, due to a pump has better performance pushing and NOT sucking. With an
'external", you need to have a tank with a connection at the bottom and real close to the pump. This makes you put a fitting at the tank and usually on the back side so taht you don't rob the pump on acceleration. There are external killer pumps and then there are great internal pumps, too.

[PBFAB.COM]

All ears... build a cover to hide the pump. Mount the pump off the back side of the tank (facing the cab... OK the front side), design your tank to slope towards the cab, baffle it inside to where the fuel being lost on acceleration is not an isssue, weld a bung on the bottom front of the tank for your fitting, and away you go. Or... do an in the tank pump... it's not a bad way to go, just not the way I do mine.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by Kid

Hey shifty, I'm not sure what you mean by "the double hump"? This tank has no "hump", just a 36" x 17" x 9.5" deep rectangle cube.
I have built over 20 fuel tanks so far for fellow rodders & if this one don't work, It will be a first..

I'm not talking about your tank, I am talking about the one shown in the white/black diagram above yours. When I posted my comment, the pictures of your tank was showing up as red X's

(EDIT: Thanks to the poster who pointed this out, and sorry I missed where you acknowledged this!)