timing Q...

[Nolowrider]

Originally Posted by Billla

I'll respectfully disagree right back Timing is specified at a set RPM; as you adjust the timing you should continually re-adjust the idle as req'd. It makes no sense to have a high idle with mechanical advance in and trying to set timing.

There's nothing wrong with dropping the distributor to establish initial timing; it's easy to set the engine at whatever you want for static timing and then point the rotor directly at #1. For example, I usually set my engines to 16 degrees BTDC and drop the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1 when starting for the first time - this works fine. If I misunderstood something in your post, my apologies.

Erratic timing can come from many sources and isn't limited to just the advance mechanism IMHO.

Billa- I am not saying that you are wrong, we just do it different ways. What I am saying is that it is better to set your TOTAL timing and let the iniatial fall where ever it lands. Then adjust the idle.

When you set the balancer off of TDC you are really advancing the cam 6*-8 * not the timing. And with most aftermarket cams they are already ground 4*, so now you are looking at anywhere from 10*-12*. Either way the end result is the same. Either 16* mechanical advance and the narks will be on xero, or line them up on zero and marks show 16*. Same thing.

Vacuum leaks will also lead to eratic timing. Just from wha he posted he didn't elude to any engine problems other than timing. That is why I only that the mech/vacuum advance could be bad.

The engine will run 180* out, just adjust your dist to #6 instead of #1.