Can anyone tell me the things that I would have to do to make my truck a swb. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

madd67 · 05-03-2002, 12:59 PM

I would like to know the messurements and things I would have to cut or change to make my LWB into a SWB. I am most positive I will do what it takes to do it. thanks for your help.

Woody · 05-03-2002, 01:43 PM

I have not done this, but from what I have read here before, you cut 12" out of the bed in front of the rear tires and 6" behind the tires. On the frame cut 12" out from under the cab and 6" off the back end. I think it would be easier to find a SWB frame and swap everything cab & forward over to the new frame, then either cut your bed or buy a complete short bed to install. But to each his own......Just my 2 cents worth. Good Luck.

------------------
Woody
'69 Custom-10 Deluxe
Short Fleetside,Factory 350cid/TH400,A/C,PS,PB,Carpet
Coming soon 700R4, 350 Crate Engine, Pwr Disks...

**Desert Rat** · 05-03-2002, 01:45 PM

Id rather do the buy another frame,Thats what i have done,and sold many for.Alot of work doing them frame cuts and making everything right,then go find a box.maybe sell your truck and go buy a shorty

**MikeB** · 05-03-2002, 02:40 PM

Several years ago I read a magazine article about a company (in California, I think) that sold a kit to do this. The kit components included templates for the frame cuts and some alignment/re-enforcement pieces to use when welding the frame back together. Sorry I can't remember the company name. If you find them, let me know.

------------------
MikeB
69 C-10 Fleetside, mild 383, Dart Iron Eagle heads, Crane Energizer 266 cam and 1.6 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer manifold and 600cfm carb, HEI w/ MSD components, 1986 front spindles/disc brakes, Vintage Air in-dash.

ebfabman · 05-03-2002, 03:40 PM

Its not hard at all. If you are careful with your measurments and cuts, use the method shown here, its almost fool proof. Everything has to line correctly.
12 inches from under the cab. Move the cab mounts back 12 inches. 8 inches off the rear of the frame, the rear bumper bracket holes are already there.

KNUCKLEHEAD · 05-03-2002, 04:57 PM

If your going for anything on a budget minded aproach I would recomend buying another frame aswell. The proper way to alter the frame like that is to have a frame rack and a certified welder with somone expirienced in frame customization.

madd67 · 05-03-2002, 05:24 PM

thanks everyone but ebfabman I am a bit confused so I have to make two cuts like the ones in the pic. or just one can you please specify please I would greatly appritiate it thanks.

Ed ke6bnl · 05-03-2002, 05:52 PM

On my boys now a 70 short bed, the frame was gotten from a 79shortbed chassis is what I am told with front disk brakes and power steering, and the bed was from a long bed and pieced together shortened at the sides and the bed bottom is one piece cut behind the cap so it is one piece. We are in need of the finish work on the welded pieces. Ed ke6bnl@juno.com Hard to describe how they did it but seem like it will be nearly undetectable later, after the body work is completed

------------------
Ed ke6bnl
Agua Dulce
70 S.E. Los Angeles
70 Chevy short bed
Sorry 50 F1 pu
Sorry 63 Ford Econoline pu

ebfabman · 05-03-2002, 05:57 PM

A frame rack is not needed. look at the first and second pics. There are 2 12inch pieces removed, one from the top and one from the bottom. The center line is common to both cuts.
After both pieces are removed, slide the front and back frame together. It should line up like the third pic.

madd67 · 05-03-2002, 06:34 PM

sorry for asking so many Questions but I am only 19 and learning, me and my dad want to do this as a project. So once the cuts like above are done how much from the rear of the frame do I have to remove and do I do it the same thanks.

ebfabman · 05-03-2002, 08:09 PM

Thats OK. The cut at the rear of the frame is a straight cut, measure 8 inches from the very rear toward the front. Again, this will be a straight cut perpendicular (90 degrees) from the frame rail edge. You will see the offset rear bumper brackets holes already there.
You need to have some good welding skill, but I think this would be a good father/son project.
Good luck.....eb

madd67 · 05-03-2002, 10:53 PM

thank you I hope I can count on you if I need further instructions on my truck please I would greatly appritiate it once agian thanks.

Baradium · 05-03-2002, 11:12 PM

see if you can find a good swb frame first... much simpler

Ron · 05-03-2002, 11:32 PM

The magazine article was performed by Charlie's Drop shop in Portland Oregon. He did my truck 3 years ago. He charged $500 for the turn key conversion. This included the drive shaft, brake lines, E-brake, etc. His phone # is (503)667-2636. I have the coolest 69 SWB in town. I'll send you pictures if you want as I don't know how to put them on the forum.

The Blue Pig · 05-04-2002, 03:36 AM

Hey Ebfabman, did you have to do any crossmember relocations? If so, is there a taper in the frame anywhere where this would prove difficult, or is it a straight hieght open "C" frame? I have never looked into that. How about cable relocation and shortening etc? Also, does the modification bring those kickups real close to the back of the cab?

dmnall · 05-04-2002, 03:44 AM

I would say, picking up a swb Frame would be a lot easier and stronger in my opinion! I know if you can find one at a Pick Your Part Junkyard, you can get it for around $ 150 - 300 and not have to cut up a lwb frame.. Basically you can sell your lwb frame and bed, and probably pay for the swb frame.. I am going to be getting a 71 swb frame and do a Engine, tranny and Cab Swap, then I am giving my lwb frame and bed to the guy giving me a swb frame and bed !!

------------------
Truck #1 68 Chev LWB Fleet w/ Wood Floor (Sucks Gas and Hauls Ass!) and in process of Body Work...

Truck #2 1994 GMC Sierra SL w/ 4.3L Vortec V6, 4L60E Auto!!

ebfabman · 05-04-2002, 07:20 AM

There is no crossmember relocation to make. Just move the rear cab mounts back 12 inches and remove the bed mounts closest to the cab. You will need to shorten the drive shaft to the SWB length and replace the e-brake cable with a shorter one (can buy them new) Then make the brake line to the rear shorter ( easy to do, you'll need a double flair tool) and thats all there is to it.

madd67 · 05-05-2002, 02:58 PM

Ron can you please send me picks at my e-mail makaveli3141@hotmail.com please and more info on drop shop kit please.

05-03-2002, 02:40 PM	#4
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,472	Several years ago I read a magazine article about a company (in California, I think) that sold a kit to do this. The kit components included templates for the frame cuts and some alignment/re-enforcement pieces to use when welding the frame back together. Sorry I can't remember the company name. If you find them, let me know. ------------------ MikeB 69 C-10 Fleetside, mild 383, Dart Iron Eagle heads, Crane Energizer 266 cam and 1.6 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer manifold and 600cfm carb, HEI w/ MSD components, 1986 front spindles/disc brakes, Vintage Air in-dash. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

05-03-2002, 05:52 PM	#8
Ed ke6bnl Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Agua Dulce, Ca. usa Posts: 179	On my boys now a 70 short bed, the frame was gotten from a 79shortbed chassis is what I am told with front disk brakes and power steering, and the bed was from a long bed and pieced together shortened at the sides and the bed bottom is one piece cut behind the cap so it is one piece. We are in need of the finish work on the welded pieces. Ed ke6bnl@juno.com Hard to describe how they did it but seem like it will be nearly undetectable later, after the body work is completed ------------------ Ed ke6bnl Agua Dulce 70 S.E. Los Angeles 70 Chevy short bed Sorry 50 F1 pu Sorry 63 Ford Econoline pu __________________ Ed ke6bnl Agua Dulce 70 S.E. Los Angeles 70 Chevy short bed 1948 F3 ford pu 1949 F1 stock V8 flathead 3 on floor 1950 F1 pu street rod 1948 F6 Ford Dually/350sbc no bed stock trans&rear 1972 El Camino 4" chop 1953 Chevy 3100 2b daily driver 1970 SB 4X4 400ci 6in lift

05-03-2002, 11:32 PM	#14
Ron Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Zillah Wa. USA Posts: 394	The magazine article was performed by Charlie's Drop shop in Portland Oregon. He did my truck 3 years ago. He charged $500 for the turn key conversion. This included the drive shaft, brake lines, E-brake, etc. His phone # is (503)667-2636. I have the coolest 69 SWB in town. I'll send you pictures if you want as I don't know how to put them on the forum. __________________ '69 SWB '76 International "Terra" "Hooked on holiday beer"

05-04-2002, 03:36 AM	#15
The Blue Pig Thread Wizard Since 2002 Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Fairbanks, AK Posts: 102	Hey Ebfabman, did you have to do any crossmember relocations? If so, is there a taper in the frame anywhere where this would prove difficult, or is it a straight hieght open "C" frame? I have never looked into that. How about cable relocation and shortening etc? Also, does the modification bring those kickups real close to the back of the cab? __________________ --70 C-10 Longbed --71 C-10 Longbed --72 K-20 Longbed --74 C-10 Shortbed --86 Toyota Tercel (His Driver) --05 Chevy Trailblazer (Her Driver)

05-04-2002, 03:44 AM	#16
dmnall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Goleta, CA Posts: 505	I would say, picking up a swb Frame would be a lot easier and stronger in my opinion! I know if you can find one at a Pick Your Part Junkyard, you can get it for around $ 150 - 300 and not have to cut up a lwb frame.. Basically you can sell your lwb frame and bed, and probably pay for the swb frame.. I am going to be getting a 71 swb frame and do a Engine, tranny and Cab Swap, then I am giving my lwb frame and bed to the guy giving me a swb frame and bed !! ------------------ Truck #1 68 Chev LWB Fleet w/ Wood Floor (Sucks Gas and Hauls Ass!) and in process of Body Work... Truck #2 1994 GMC Sierra SL w/ 4.3L Vortec V6, 4L60E Auto!! __________________ 1968 C10 Truck LWB Fleetside 1968 C10 Truck SWB Stepside 1994 K2500 Ext Cab Fleetside 2008 Honda Civic Si lease

05-03-2002, 12:59 PM	#1
madd67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Avenal,California, U.S.a Posts: 32	Can anyone tell me the things that I would have to do to make my truck a swb. I would like to know the messurements and things I would have to cut or change to make my LWB into a SWB. I am most positive I will do what it takes to do it. thanks for your help.

05-03-2002, 01:43 PM	#2
Woody Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Georgetown, KY, USA Posts: 631	I have not done this, but from what I have read here before, you cut 12" out of the bed in front of the rear tires and 6" behind the tires. On the frame cut 12" out from under the cab and 6" off the back end. I think it would be easier to find a SWB frame and swap everything cab & forward over to the new frame, then either cut your bed or buy a complete short bed to install. But to each his own......Just my 2 cents worth. Good Luck. ------------------ Woody '69 Custom-10 Deluxe Short Fleetside,Factory 350cid/TH400,A/C,PS,PB,Carpet Coming soon 700R4, 350 Crate Engine, Pwr Disks...

05-03-2002, 01:45 PM	#3
Desert Rat Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Darrington, Washington Posts: 3,963	Id rather do the buy another frame,Thats what i have done,and sold many for.Alot of work doing them frame cuts and making everything right,then go find a box.maybe sell your truck and go buy a shorty

05-03-2002, 03:40 PM	#5
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,489	Its not hard at all. If you are careful with your measurments and cuts, use the method shown here, its almost fool proof. Everything has to line correctly. 12 inches from under the cab. Move the cab mounts back 12 inches. 8 inches off the rear of the frame, the rear bumper bracket holes are already there.

05-03-2002, 04:57 PM	#6
KNUCKLEHEAD Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: S.C. U.S. Posts: 34	If your going for anything on a budget minded aproach I would recomend buying another frame aswell. The proper way to alter the frame like that is to have a frame rack and a certified welder with somone expirienced in frame customization.

05-03-2002, 05:24 PM	#7
madd67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Avenal,California, U.S.a Posts: 32	thanks everyone but ebfabman I am a bit confused so I have to make two cuts like the ones in the pic. or just one can you please specify please I would greatly appritiate it thanks.

05-03-2002, 05:57 PM	#9
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,489	A frame rack is not needed. look at the first and second pics. There are 2 12inch pieces removed, one from the top and one from the bottom. The center line is common to both cuts. After both pieces are removed, slide the front and back frame together. It should line up like the third pic.

05-03-2002, 06:34 PM	#10
madd67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Avenal,California, U.S.a Posts: 32	sorry for asking so many Questions but I am only 19 and learning, me and my dad want to do this as a project. So once the cuts like above are done how much from the rear of the frame do I have to remove and do I do it the same thanks.

05-03-2002, 08:09 PM	#11
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,489	Thats OK. The cut at the rear of the frame is a straight cut, measure 8 inches from the very rear toward the front. Again, this will be a straight cut perpendicular (90 degrees) from the frame rail edge. You will see the offset rear bumper brackets holes already there. You need to have some good welding skill, but I think this would be a good father/son project. Good luck.....eb

05-03-2002, 10:53 PM	#12
madd67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Avenal,California, U.S.a Posts: 32	thank you I hope I can count on you if I need further instructions on my truck please I would greatly appritiate it once agian thanks.



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05-03-2002, 11:12 PM	#13
Baradium Binder Rep Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Salcha, AK Posts: 1,506	see if you can find a good swb frame first... much simpler

05-04-2002, 07:20 AM	#17
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,489	There is no crossmember relocation to make. Just move the rear cab mounts back 12 inches and remove the bed mounts closest to the cab. You will need to shorten the drive shaft to the SWB length and replace the e-brake cable with a shorter one (can buy them new) Then make the brake line to the rear shorter ( easy to do, you'll need a double flair tool) and thats all there is to it.

05-05-2002, 02:58 PM	#18
madd67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Avenal,California, U.S.a Posts: 32	Ron can you please send me picks at my e-mail makaveli3141@hotmail.com please and more info on drop shop kit please.

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