Need some help, please - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

WORNBRAKES · 11-12-2002, 07:54 PM

I have two things:
First I just bought a 69 CST 10 last friday. Great truck but there is a problem with the steering or brakes. When I apply the brakes, the front end pulles to the right. It makes me think that the left brake is not grabbing.
Second the engine was rebuilt in 95 and has 8000 miles on it. There is a brand new Edelbrock 1406 carb on there. I am having a problem getting the secondaries to open up. It is a 327 bored .030 over with perforance cam. It has headers and they have the 2 1/2 in pipes reduced to 2 in with glass packs. I adjusted the pedal rod in to give me more pedal and made some adjustments to the carb. When I floor it, I am not getting much from it. I am thinking that they might have put on the wrong carb adapter plate or it has to do with the exhaust. Could you guys please help. I think that the engine should produce more than it is.
Thanks,
Mario

jim71chevy · 11-12-2002, 08:52 PM

As for the brakes you could have a leaky wheel cyl or the brakes grabing or a brake hose bad, As for the carb the performer would not work on my 350 with a healty cam till I got a tuner kit for it . The kit has different rods springs ect, the stock springs to strong for a motor with low vac from a bigger cam I think the kit was $50

*Fast68Chevy* · 11-12-2002, 09:02 PM

brakes on the left probably has stuck threads on the self adjustor assembly.

WORNBRAKES · 11-12-2002, 09:18 PM

Thanks Jim, Randy. I don't have any wheel cylinders leaking. I will check the adjustor and see if it is stuck. I will start with the driver side and hope to find a solution there. As for the carb, a friend here mentioned the kit. I will have to get one and have him help me with it. As for vacume. I pull the pvc hose off of the valve cover and that carb is sucking more air than I have ever seen. I havent put a guage on it but it is a lot.

72shadetree · 11-12-2002, 11:24 PM

on the carb i had to play around with the kit.but also the accelerator pump rod its got 3 holes in it had to move mine to the middle one then i pulled engine and put it in another 72 with out touching carb it ran like crap so i had to go to top hole and that fixed it.you might want to try that wont cost nothing just remeber what hole you was in to start with then try one thenthe other just dont drop that d@#N little clip

70 Suburban · 11-13-2002, 12:28 AM

well I am going through the brake isues now and well it takes a budget to fix them if you have the hd brakes. I work in a parts house and I am still speding about $200 on them. Now to your isue I have to go with the adjuster alot of times the screw will get rusty, and or the cylender might stick..The good news is that the axle brake kit is about $15 bucks and you can use the adjuster kit for the back on the front you can still get that new.. if you need part numbers let me know

WORNBRAKES · 11-13-2002, 11:32 PM

Shadetree- I will give the pump rod a shot prior to spending more $. I hope I can get to it this weekend.
70Sub- I feel you on the brakes. I spent almost 300 for new rear drums for the 68. Floating axles are a pain in the a_s. After shoes, springs, and wheel cylinders the rear brakes got kind of pricey. Need no part #'s now I hope that it wont cost anything to fix. I will try the adjuster screw and if I get nothing, I will pull the drum and further inspect.
Thanks,
Mario

11-12-2002, 07:54 PM	#1
WORNBRAKES Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Hughesville, MD Posts: 1,350	Need some help, please I have two things: First I just bought a 69 CST 10 last friday. Great truck but there is a problem with the steering or brakes. When I apply the brakes, the front end pulles to the right. It makes me think that the left brake is not grabbing. Second the engine was rebuilt in 95 and has 8000 miles on it. There is a brand new Edelbrock 1406 carb on there. I am having a problem getting the secondaries to open up. It is a 327 bored .030 over with perforance cam. It has headers and they have the 2 1/2 in pipes reduced to 2 in with glass packs. I adjusted the pedal rod in to give me more pedal and made some adjustments to the carb. When I floor it, I am not getting much from it. I am thinking that they might have put on the wrong carb adapter plate or it has to do with the exhaust. Could you guys please help. I think that the engine should produce more than it is. Thanks, Mario __________________ Mario and Mandy Hughesville, MD 20637 69 C10 305/350 71 K5 Basket case 75 K10 Rescue Parting out 77 MG Midget Parting out 15 6.7L Cummins

11-12-2002, 09:18 PM	#4
WORNBRAKES Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Hughesville, MD Posts: 1,350	Thanks Jim, Randy. I don't have any wheel cylinders leaking. I will check the adjustor and see if it is stuck. I will start with the driver side and hope to find a solution there. As for the carb, a friend here mentioned the kit. I will have to get one and have him help me with it. As for vacume. I pull the pvc hose off of the valve cover and that carb is sucking more air than I have ever seen. I havent put a guage on it but it is a lot. __________________ Mario and Mandy Hughesville, MD 20637 69 C10 305/350 71 K5 Basket case 75 K10 Rescue Parting out 77 MG Midget Parting out 15 6.7L Cummins

11-12-2002, 11:24 PM	#5
72shadetree KEEP ON TRUCKING Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: martinsville va Posts: 2,563	on the carb i had to play around with the kit.but also the accelerator pump rod its got 3 holes in it had to move mine to the middle one then i pulled engine and put it in another 72 with out touching carb it ran like crap so i had to go to top hole and that fixed it.you might want to try that wont cost nothing just remeber what hole you was in to start with then try one thenthe other just dont drop that d@#N little clip __________________ 72 cheyenne 2wd lwb 71 k20 sons bassett va

11-13-2002, 11:32 PM	#7
WORNBRAKES Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Hughesville, MD Posts: 1,350	Shadetree- I will give the pump rod a shot prior to spending more $. I hope I can get to it this weekend. 70Sub- I feel you on the brakes. I spent almost 300 for new rear drums for the 68. Floating axles are a pain in the a_s. After shoes, springs, and wheel cylinders the rear brakes got kind of pricey. Need no part #'s now I hope that it wont cost anything to fix. I will try the adjuster screw and if I get nothing, I will pull the drum and further inspect. Thanks, Mario __________________ Mario and Mandy Hughesville, MD 20637 69 C10 305/350 71 K5 Basket case 75 K10 Rescue Parting out 77 MG Midget Parting out 15 6.7L Cummins

11-12-2002, 08:52 PM	#2
jim71chevy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Canton, Ill Posts: 48	As for the brakes you could have a leaky wheel cyl or the brakes grabing or a brake hose bad, As for the carb the performer would not work on my 350 with a healty cam till I got a tuner kit for it . The kit has different rods springs ect, the stock springs to strong for a motor with low vac from a bigger cam I think the kit was $50

11-12-2002, 09:02 PM	#3
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	brakes on the left probably has stuck threads on the self adjustor assembly.

11-13-2002, 12:28 AM	#6
70 Suburban Rods Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Bryan, TX Posts: 1,398	well I am going through the brake isues now and well it takes a budget to fix them if you have the hd brakes. I work in a parts house and I am still speding about $200 on them. Now to your isue I have to go with the adjuster alot of times the screw will get rusty, and or the cylender might stick..The good news is that the axle brake kit is about $15 bucks and you can use the adjuster kit for the back on the front you can still get that new.. if you need part numbers let me know



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