Valve Setup

[IvelDesigns]

I did a bit of thinking tonight, and decided i'm not gonna wait to do add a compressor, tank and valves to my bag setup. I started looking around on suicidedoors and found the tank i want (Stainless Steel 5 Gallon) and the compressor (Viair 460 150 PSI). But then i got to thinking about the valves and wiring. I'm not really sure what i need.

So can anyone help give me a list of items to get? How many relays do i need? just one for the compressor, or do i need one for each valve?

I am using slam specialties RE7's all the way around.

[PBFAB.COM]

What's your budget, and what do you want out of your air system?

[IvelDesigns]

i want it to go up and down. that's about it I'm not concerned about f,b,s,s, my current plan is to do a 8 valve setup, one tank, one compressor unless you guys think i should do it differently.

it will be my DD during the summer

budget needs to be under $700 if possible. Under $500 would be great.

[IvelDesigns]

oh, and speed is not an issue. If i have to sit in the parking lot at work for a couple min getting to ride height, i'm OK with that....

[PBFAB.COM]

I have some MIC manual valves that I have used in the past... I think they are $60 a piece (I can check the price on Mon.) you would need four. The only 'drawback' is that you have to run the lines to wherever the valves are mounted (not too big a deal). For a budget, functional, and low maintenance set-up you can't beat it! You will need a relay for your compressor.

[IvelDesigns]

forgive my ignorance with valves, but what is a MIC manual valve? and how does it differ from these?

http://*****************/12and38SMCVa...eShipping).php

I should also clarify that i'm just talkin about the compressor, tank, valves and switches here. I already have the bags and line.


------ EDIT ------
answered my own question. is this what you were talkin about?
http://www.masterimagecustoms.com/Me...Code=PAC800-03

if so, i understand what you meant by running air lines to the switch,... i'd rather not do that.

if i were to go with those SMC valves, what else would i need?

[64shortc10]

Hi,

SMC's are good valves. And if your gonna order the tank and compressor from suisidedoors why not order the valves at the same time. What size airline do you have?

[64shortc10]

Try to keep everything the same as far as sizing. Because your slam bags are 1/2 inch I would get everything else 1/2 inch. And make sure you ask suisidedoors for the mounting brackets with those valves. As far as needing anything else you will need fittings, wiring, and some way to control your valves. Like a switchbox, or toggle switches. Get a 145 psi pressure switch if you dont want it to go to fast, and mufflers or reducers for your dump valves if you dont want it to just slam down when you hit the switch.

[jimmydean]

OK, first off, you DON'T want 1/2" valves. They will be too fast and cost more than 3/8th. If you have 1/2" line, then just use 1/2" OD x 3/8" NPT fittings to connect the line to the valves.

Here's a good idea of what to get:
1 - ViAir 160 PSI Single Needle Gauge (optional for tank)
2 - ViAir 160 PSI Dual Needle Gauges
Viair Pressure Switch 110/145 PSI
Stainless Steel 5 Gallon
8 - SMC 3/8" Valves
Viair 460 150 PSI Compressor

You only need one relay to go from the pressure switch to the compressor. I think you will be ok with one compressor and the one tank, but you may only get a couple lifts out of a full tank before you need to wait a few minutes for the tank to fill again.

I can dump my truck when I park, then lift to leave and it's cool. I only have to wait if I play a few times. I am running 1/2 valves and 1/2 line and I had to run dump adjusters and fill adjusters on everything because it was way too fast. I went from all up to full dump with each switch, there was very little in between because of the speed.

[jimmydean]

Also, this picture is a lot like my setup. The 4 way connection between the fill/dump valves and gauge, I used the cool brass tee with gauge fittings:

[IMG]http://*****************/images/products/mid_12BrassTeewith1890DegFitting.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://*****************/how_to/wire-diagrams/8valve.gif[/IMG]

Hope this all makes sense.

[IvelDesigns]

ok, so it's pretty much unanimous that i go with an 8 valve setup. Here's the list that i have come up with:

1 3/8" SMC Valve 8 Pack (Free Shipping) 219.99 <---- Do i need relays for these or anything else???
1 Viair 460 150 PSI - Chrome 199.95
1 Stainless Steel 5 Gallon 79.99
2 Free Gift - 2x-large 0.00 <--- add to the collection
1 30/40 Amp Relay with Socket 5.99 <------ I assume i need this. Do I?
1 Red 10-Switch Box 29.99
1 110/145 PSI Non-Adj 18.99

I already have a 100' roll of 3/8, so i I'll just go with that instead of the 1/2 line/valves. once my haneline gauges come in, i'll get the line for them at the local frieghtliner shop.

[PBFAB.COM]

There's nothing wrong with the set-up from suicide doors... just not the way I would go. The 8 valve set-up is on the higher maintenance side, installation is more complicated/time consuming, and it's difficult to 'package' in a clean and visual pleasing way. Here's alink to the MIC manual valves I was referring to http://ww.masterimagecustoms.com/store/manualav.html
I have used them in the past with good results. The only drawback is that the lines all have to run through the valves, that means into the cab and back out again. They flow very well. As far as a clean and simple set-up... with 'budget' in mind, it's a good way to go.

I too would recommend to go with a 3/8 valve MAX... unless you want the truck to move up and down FAST. I would even recommend reducing the orfice on the dump side to 1/4.

just my $.02

[jimmydean]

You don't need relays for the valves. The purpose of the relay is to switch the compressor on/off by the pressure switch without pumping 18A (the draw of the compressor) of current through the switch.

Like Nathan said, it can be a pain in the ass. I fought with mine for about 2 weeks and still have one fill valve that doesn't seal fully.

The manifold valves available trough Air Ride Tech is very clean and near painless to set up. That setup would have been about $500 more than what I spent, but also would have been a lot less hassle.

Hindsight being what it is, I know what route I will take my next setup. Plug and play baby!

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

I have some MIC manual valves that I have used in the past... I think they are $60 a piece (I can check the price on Mon.) you would need four. The only 'drawback' is that you have to run the lines to wherever the valves are mounted (not too big a deal). For a budget, functional, and low maintenance set-up you can't beat it! You will need a relay for your compressor.

So these are used in place of traditional valves. Can you explain how they work?

[short step]

why do u want FBSS if u just want to go up and down? go with 4 valves and do F&B, if u arn't happy add 4 more later.u need less fittings and $120+ less in valves,or use 2 of the manuel's if u want. go with 3/8, 1/2 is way too fast for what u want. u wont have enough air to play with your setup anyway
bob

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by short step

why do u want FBSS if u just want to go up and down? go with 4 valves and do F&B, if u arn't happy add 4 more later.u need less fittings and $120+ less in valves,or use 2 of the manuel's if u want. go with 3/8, 1/2 is way too fast for what u want. u wont have enough air to play with your setup anyway
bob

It's not about going side to side. You need to run a fill and dump valve for each bag to be safe. Do a search, it has been talked about a few times at least on here. It's not about cost, it's about control.

You can control 8 valves with 2 switches (front/ rear).

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

It's not about going side to side. You need to run a fill and dump valve for each bag to be safe. Do a search, it has been talked about a few times at least on here. It's not about cost, it's about control.

yes, this is why i'm doing 8 valves. my reason for installing bags is a) to get lower for crusies / car shows, but also for better ride. If i were to leave it with the front bags on the same line, it would increase body roll, making the ride worse than it is now.


one thing i don't understand is why someone hasn't made a single electric valve that controls both fill and dump. having 8 valves seems kinda silly to me.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by jlaird

So these are used in place of traditional valves. Can you explain how they work?

It's a needle and seat style valve... billet block, o-ring, and a toggle (controls the needle) that lets air through to one orfice when cycled (to the bag), and lets air out when cycled the other way. It's very simple and functional. The smallest valves that are cylindrical and sai 1/8 valve... they flow comparable to a 1/4 valve... I used them on a long travel (17 inches) and Shockwaved Rhino we built last year... they worked extremely well. I have a set of the 1/8" valves I am going to put in a 69 we are getting ready to build... we'll see if we will need to step it up to a 3/8 or not. One huge advantage of a manual valve is that the valve does not stay 'closed' by the air pressure in the system. The majority of electric valves (all that I know of) are held shut by the pressure in the tank. This is why so often the truck will air out over time if there is a leak in the supply side of the system.

Air Ride Technologies sells an electric valve assembly that is a manifold style... there are 8 solenoids... there has to be one that lets air in, and one that lets air out of each bag.

[short step]

i have a 48 buick and a 71 c10 with 1 valve to control the front and dont have a problem I see the thread a little further down that explains the 4 valve setup,makes sense but i havnt had a problem,I also have a big sway bar Ivel they do make a 3/8 valve that does both,i have them on the car,i dont know who makes them,I bought them on ebay
bob

[Spray-Bomb]

Not to hijack the thread, but I got the "Big-Red" valve setup in a kit I stole (I mean bought)

My question is, do I need anymore valves or am I good (I think I'm good, but I dunno)

Just to let ya'll know I got a whole system from a guy for $700, including ride-pro E, bags, air-line, compressors (2), tanks (2), and these valves the valve cost about what I paid for the whole deal ( )

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by Spray-Bomb

Not to hijack the thread, but I got the "Big-Red" valve setup in a kit I stole (I mean bought)

My question is, do I need anymore valves or am I good (I think I'm good, but I dunno)

Just to let ya'll know I got a whole system from a guy for $700, including ride-pro E, bags, air-line, compressors (2), tanks (2), and these valves the valve cost about what I paid for the whole deal ( )

Nope, your good with that setup. That's the setup I was talking about. I will go that route next time because all the leak issues I've had would not happen with that setup.

It's expensive, but I think it's worth it in hindsight. (and yes, you STOLE that )