Bus tow hooks

[boundstaffpress]

I've given up on winning the lottery. I went ahead and bought a pair of "bus" tow hooks. Mine are 9 inches long, 5 inches tall, with 3/4 inch holes. Obviously they dont just fit in-between the bumper and the spring perch, so I was thinking I would make a bracket to bolt under the frame between the perch and the bumper. I was going to make it out of 1.5 inch angle that is 1/4 inch thick. This extra distance would allow me to mount one hole of the tow hook to the frame, and the other to my bracket.

What am I not thinking of? Is this safe enough to jerk people out of the snow and mud?
If this doesn't work, I will probably mount them to the rear frame behind the bumper.

Thanks for your opinion.

[Bob Moore]

Justin - I like it when people find new things. Those are great - a pleasant change from the normal hooks.

2 points

1. I'm sure you just used "jerk" to get your point accross. I sure hope you don't jerk a bumper off but pull someone gently but firmly from being stuck.

2. Maybe use strap(2" wide by 3/16" thick) and some braces. I'm just not a big fan of angle iron.

Once again I sure like the "different tow hooks" - Bob

[Imacarguytoo]

Sometimes you just have to JERK stuck vehicles BUT make sure the strap NOT a chain is attached to the frame of the other vehicle. I would use the same thickness as the frame of the vehicle. And like you said make sure atleast 1 bolt hole of the tow hook is mounted to the frame of the truck. And ofcourse NEVER weld tow hooks on. Always use grade 8 bolts.

[GREASEMONKEY72]

nice hooks, different yet nice, goodjob and i hope they work for you

[see ten]

Look a lot like the correct hooks don't they! Were you able to get a left and a right? I have a bud who works at Blue Bird with a box of those under his workstation.

[Smitty]

You might want to think about using something to bush the holes so that whatever bolts you use aren't too sloppy in the holes. If there is too much play around the bolts it would assist them in snapping when you have pressure on the hooks when you pull with them.

[Americanrider]

Build yourself a big Cow-Killer-Winch bumper and mount them topside, with that curl they look like razorback tusks.

[Pic from a members 4x4 utility truck that sold here on the board]

I have a pair I got last year for $10 at a swap meet.

[special-K]

I don`t think your mounting will hold up to the test.Also,they work best mounted upright.They will need to be mounted as solidly to the frams as possible.
You know those brush guards that were on all the 4wds in the`70s?They were made of plate(1/4")uprights and two pipes in between and had holes to mount Jeep-hooks on the lower end.Every one I saw that someone tryed towing on those hooks was bent inward.The first thing we`d do on those was add a third tube doen there between the hooks.I`m just saying heavy steel ai`t enough.It`s got to be braced in all directions.

[boundstaffpress]

Maybe there is some confusion as to how I'd mount them. It would be very similar to the original hooks. I agree, I wish the hooks could face more front to back, but there isn't the room. Here is a drawing of how I would mount the hooks. I would consider welding the angle iron to the frame if it would significantly increase the strength. Not much is sacred on this farm truck.

Yes I did get a set of right and left hooks.

No I don't "jerk" people out, much more of a controlled effort on my part. No matter how worked over my truck is, I don't want to intentionally destroy it.

[Americanrider]

If mounted like your pic I would consider Boxing the frame horns all the way back to the 1st crossmember. Also running a brace between the frame horns out at the ends between the hooks. I have seen several trucks that have bent frames from mild impact, eg. front bumper to tree. Unless you can pull 100 percent straight-on to the load then you run the risk of pulling one or both of your frame horns out of wack.

I spent 4 years in the Army as a Tank Recovery crewman pulling tanks & APCs out of swamps and mud pits. Loads ranging from a 1/4 ton jeep to a 63 ton Abrams tank that threw it's tracks. Just to give you a idea of loads here is an example.

A 4000 lb truck that is stuck below the axle hub =4000lbs [wheel deep]
If that same truck is buried up past the axle hub [fender deep] it is DOUBLE the resistance: meaning it's 8,000 lbs you are trying to move.
If it is buried over the wheels [cab deep] it's triple the load =12,000 lbs

If the stuck truck is pulled backwards through it's own tracks subtract 10% from the load.

If the stuck truck can apply power to it's own wheels subtract 50% from the load.

One of these days I'm going to do a detailed recovery thread in the 4x4 section of the board but I think you get the idea. Make it stronger than stock.

[breeh]

I mounted mine just like they were mounted on the bus that I took them off of, flush to the bottom part of the frame rail. I sure wouldn't try unsticking an Abrams with them though!

[boundstaffpress]

Breeh - do you have pics of yours?

I'm also not going to pull any tanks, but maybe an occasional stump.

[breeh]

I looked and I don't have any real clear pictures of the hooks. This is the best one that I have:

[special-K]

AmericanRider said it just like I was.I guess the factory hooks could do some frame horn twisting,too.But,your plan increases the leverage off of the frame.

[boundstaffpress]

Thanks for the help guys. I will begin my plan to mount them flat on the bottom of the frame. It will mean the building of a spacer to account for the slight angle at the frame horn, I may even notch the bumper a little. We'll see what is necessary.

[breeh]

Justin, I didn't need to build any spacers or notch the bumper...

[724x4a/cchevy]

ive heard stories of guys runnig a strap between the factory tow hooks and bending the bumper/frame rails trying to pull themselves out of a ditch. They straightened them and made a frame support to go between the rails behind the bumper.

[boundstaffpress]

Breeh - were/are your hooks the 9 inch long variety. I've been doing some looking, and there seems to be some smaller hooks out there as well. I also read in the archives of someone who had drilled out the front spring perch rivet, and replaced it with a bolt that held the perch and tow hook. This would certainly move the hook back enough to fit, but I don't think it will otherwise. I'll check when I leave work here in a few minutes.

[breeh]

Now I understand! Mine are probably 5" in length. I see why you are having problems. That is a bunch more length to fit in there.