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Old 02-13-2007, 07:27 AM   #1
Detroit3100
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Re: 1950 LQ9 conversion

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Originally Posted by Kabwe View Post
Detroit3100,

How low is your oil pan setting?
after I raised the engine up 3+ inches it is still maybe a 1/2 in below the cross member and it seems like it will need to go up or my driveshaft will be too high.

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Originally Posted by stevehsd View Post
I was thinking of the RB bolt in, is it just the crossmember or did you get the rest from them? If you don't mind how much? Did you box the frame? Thanks, that's looking good!
I got just the crossmember, I think it was $600 or so, and the control arms and bags were from ziggs.
I did not box the frame more than the sections that are near the crossmember, b/c it came w/the kit. I think the bolt it kit give an older appearence.
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:03 AM   #2
Kabwe
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Re: 1950 LQ9 conversion

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Originally Posted by Detroit3100 View Post
after I raised the engine up 3+ inches it is still maybe a 1/2 in below the cross member and it seems like it will need to go up or my driveshaft will be too high.

Are you saying your engine is setting to high now?
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Old 02-14-2007, 02:27 PM   #3
Detroit3100
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Re: 1950 LQ9 conversion

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Originally Posted by Kabwe View Post
Are you saying your engine is setting to high now?





My trans tunnel is what I am worried about now. I think it will go about 1/2 that high and forward another inch or so.

I wish GM would get in gear so I could be getting a 6L80 tans

progress is slow but I won a MAP sensor on egay for $16...now I hope it works
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Old 02-13-2007, 11:09 PM   #4
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Re: 1950 LQ9 conversion

[QUOTE=Detroit3100;2030536]after I raised the engine up 3+ inches it is still maybe a 1/2 in below the cross member and it seems like it will need to go up or my driveshaft will be too high.

Be carefull with raising the motor that much, you might have issues with the trans tunnel, I have my LS1/4L60e sitting high but it still looks like it's sitting low, I used the original motor mounts but had brackets made which were the same height as the og brackets.

Take a look at what I've done so far with my build.
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...Chevy%20Truck/

Kabwe.

I meet that guy with the Caddy 2 years ago and that thing was the best car at Route 66, he had a 5.3L setup that he was selling for a great price but I already had my engine/trans already...

Hopefully I'll have my truck ready in the next couple months, it's body work time.
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Old 02-14-2007, 01:48 AM   #5
Kabwe
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Re: 1950 LQ9 conversion

Kabwe.

I meet that guy with the Caddy 2 years ago and that thing was the best car at Route 66, he had a 5.3L setup that he was selling for a great price but I already had my engine/trans already...

Hopefully I'll have my truck ready in the next couple months, it's body work time.[/QUOTE]

Yeah Homer is a very nice guy and he has a couple of nice rides, but nothing as nice as that caddy.
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Old 02-14-2007, 01:50 AM   #6
Kabwe
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Re: 1950 LQ9 conversion

I checked out you build a while back. I found it on the internet how is it going? any updates?

Last edited by Kabwe; 02-14-2007 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 02-14-2007, 11:34 AM   #7
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Re: 1950 LQ9 conversion

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Originally Posted by Kabwe View Post
I checked out you build a while back. I found it on the internet how is it going? any updates?
It's been slow coming but I've started the body work now, I've Epoxy primed the fenders and doors and will be starting the filler work on them this week, once finished I'll work on the hood, I killed my grinder trying to strip the old paint off so I need a new one, do you know what is the best method to strip the paint from the underside of the hood without getting it blasted? I can use the grinder with the red abrasive pad but that won't get into all the little areas that need cleaning.

BTW: Your build is looking good. Is there a preference to using the camaro clip as opposed to the Mustand II?
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Old 02-14-2007, 12:34 PM   #8
Kabwe
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Re: 1950 LQ9 conversion

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It's been slow coming but I've started the body work now, I've Epoxy primed the fenders and doors and will be starting the filler work on them this week, once finished I'll work on the hood, I killed my grinder trying to strip the old paint off so I need a new one, do you know what is the best method to strip the paint from the underside of the hood without getting it blasted? I can use the grinder with the red abrasive pad but that won't get into all the little areas that need cleaning.

BTW: Your build is looking good. Is there a preference to using the camaro clip as opposed to the Mustand II?
Have you tried the aircraft paint striper? It works really well. Just wear some big rubber gloves and long sleeves cause man this stuff burns when its on your skin. We striped a 56 chevy with this stuff and man it was easy. You can buy it at autozone. The way I use it is like this you use a brush to apply the stripper only brush on in one direction. Then you have it all on cover with plastic (you don't have to do this but I find it keeps the stripper from drying to fast) and then scrap off the old paint with a putty knife. Then I use a power washer to wash it down. A water hose is okay also, but I'm kind of addicted to tools.lol Man this stuff works great and its fast no time at all.

As for the Mustang II vs. Camaro clip there is nothing wrong with either in my opinion. I've done volares, Gm clips, and Mustang II and all are nice if done right with my perference being GM clips and Mustang II. I done the Mustang II this time because of the ease of installation. I had a volare clip on this truck, but when I started thinking I may want to bag the truck later I sold that frame and done the mustang II on my new frame.

Last edited by Kabwe; 02-14-2007 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 02-14-2007, 01:11 PM   #9
b.sharp
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Re: 1950 LQ9 conversion

Kawbe,

Would you mind to p.m. me a number I can reach you at? I have some questions about your door rebuild. BTW that truck is looking real good. I have decided to turn mine into a 4-wheel drive instead of the hot rod I first intended on. I love hot rods but I really need a 4-wheel drive also. So I'm going to have the best of both worlds.

Thanks again,

B.Sharp
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