73-87 control arm bushings - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

love it loud · 11-15-2002, 10:19 PM

Hey, anybody know how to get out the old control arm bushings from 73-87 control arms? Got new energy suspension polyurethane ones to put in but no too sure how to get the old ones out without destroying the control arm. Is this possible or should I just leave it to a professional shop? Thanks for any input.

*Fast68Chevy* · 11-16-2002, 12:41 AM

a little heat is a good thing, at least youre not having to do rear arm bushings, always have to completely burn them out, sometimes with leaf bushings also.,

CustomChevy · 11-16-2002, 09:55 AM

Assuming that you have the a-arms off of the truck, you can attempt to burn out some of the rubber from the old bushings. If you have a bench and a vise, you can vise a socket (can't remember the size, maybe 1" ?) and line it up with the bushing and proceed to hammer the a-arm down. This does work, but you have to be careful with the bushing housing for obvious reasons.

Overall, it's best to just have a shop take em out and press the new ones in, that way no problems with the arms.

That's my .02 worth. good luck!

crazy longhorn · 11-16-2002, 10:20 AM

I have always burned the rubber, & pushed it out, then cut the shell in 2 places with my trusty torch. the shell pretty much fall out after it cools. after you clean up the holes with some emery cloth(not too much), you can press the new pcs in with a bench vise using the large socket method........carefull not to bend the arm.......

**swervin ervin** · 11-16-2002, 03:01 PM

When I did mine, I used a hammer and chisel to get them started, then used an air chisel to get the the rest of the way. It's a tough job, but it's not real bad with a air chisel.

Rebuilding the front end

Good luck with it.

HeavyK20 · 11-17-2002, 09:42 AM

Are 73-87 control arm bushings different than 71 & 72? I just took apart a 71 and I don't see any rubber in it. It actually looks like the threads of the bushing are the bearing surface. If this is the case, would I be better off upgrading to a 73-87 front. Are the 73-87 fronts a bolt in assembly for 67-72's?

Thanks

crazy longhorn · 11-17-2002, 10:16 AM

in 73 the 1/2 tons went to rubber bushings in the a arms. The 3/4 tons kept the steel bushings that all of the 67-72s had(through the 70s anyway). somewhere in the 80s, the 3/4tons also went to the rubber bushings......but Im not sure on the yr. Personally, I prefer the old steel bushings.......they ride a little harsher, but if they are kept greased they will last d@mn near forever

HeavyK20 · 11-17-2002, 11:10 AM

Thanks for the info, I think I am going to stick with the steel bushings also since I have everything.

How do I check for wear on the steel bushings?

crazy longhorn · 11-17-2002, 11:25 AM

If the bushings are tight, you shouldnt feel an side to side "wiggle" in the a arms. The down side is that when the bushings wear, the shaft does also & you will be replacing shaft assemblys to get that good tight front end. I have in a pinch , replaced just a couple bushings, & it will work if the wear is minimal, but as a rule its a short lived fix. Good luck

Brad · 11-17-2002, 02:06 PM

Yes! Follow Crazy Longhorn's advice-if you do stick with the stock bushings, replace the shaft as well. I didn't and thought I'd save some $$ and within 6 months I was replacing them again. After that I decided to go to rubber-well, I also wanted disk brakes so it was convenient.

11-15-2002, 10:19 PM	#1
love it loud Calibration Engineer Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada Posts: 361	73-87 control arm bushings Hey, anybody know how to get out the old control arm bushings from 73-87 control arms? Got new energy suspension polyurethane ones to put in but no too sure how to get the old ones out without destroying the control arm. Is this possible or should I just leave it to a professional shop? Thanks for any input.

11-16-2002, 09:55 AM	#3
CustomChevy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 461	A-arms Assuming that you have the a-arms off of the truck, you can attempt to burn out some of the rubber from the old bushings. If you have a bench and a vise, you can vise a socket (can't remember the size, maybe 1" ?) and line it up with the bushing and proceed to hammer the a-arm down. This does work, but you have to be careful with the bushing housing for obvious reasons. Overall, it's best to just have a shop take em out and press the new ones in, that way no problems with the arms. That's my .02 worth. good luck!

11-16-2002, 10:20 AM	#4
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	I have always burned the rubber, & pushed it out, then cut the shell in 2 places with my trusty torch. the shell pretty much fall out after it cools. after you clean up the holes with some emery cloth(not too much), you can press the new pcs in with a bench vise using the large socket method........carefull not to bend the arm....... __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

11-16-2002, 03:01 PM	#5
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	When I did mine, I used a hammer and chisel to get them started, then used an air chisel to get the the rest of the way. It's a tough job, but it's not real bad with a air chisel. Rebuilding the front end Good luck with it. __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

11-17-2002, 09:42 AM	#6
HeavyK20 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: New Richmond, WI Posts: 547	Are 73-87 control arm bushings different than 71 & 72? I just took apart a 71 and I don't see any rubber in it. It actually looks like the threads of the bushing are the bearing surface. If this is the case, would I be better off upgrading to a 73-87 front. Are the 73-87 fronts a bolt in assembly for 67-72's? Thanks __________________ Eric 1969 K20, 465/205 package

11-16-2002, 12:41 AM	#2
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	a little heat is a good thing, at least youre not having to do rear arm bushings, always have to completely burn them out, sometimes with leaf bushings also.,

11-17-2002, 10:16 AM	#7
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	in 73 the 1/2 tons went to rubber bushings in the a arms. The 3/4 tons kept the steel bushings that all of the 67-72s had(through the 70s anyway). somewhere in the 80s, the 3/4tons also went to the rubber bushings......but Im not sure on the yr. Personally, I prefer the old steel bushings.......they ride a little harsher, but if they are kept greased they will last d@mn near forever __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

11-17-2002, 11:10 AM	#8
HeavyK20 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: New Richmond, WI Posts: 547	Thanks for the info, I think I am going to stick with the steel bushings also since I have everything. How do I check for wear on the steel bushings? __________________ Eric 1969 K20, 465/205 package

11-17-2002, 11:25 AM	#9
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	If the bushings are tight, you shouldnt feel an side to side "wiggle" in the a arms. The down side is that when the bushings wear, the shaft does also & you will be replacing shaft assemblys to get that good tight front end. I have in a pinch , replaced just a couple bushings, & it will work if the wear is minimal, but as a rule its a short lived fix. Good luck __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

11-17-2002, 02:06 PM	#10
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,672	Yes! Follow Crazy Longhorn's advice-if you do stick with the stock bushings, replace the shaft as well. I didn't and thought I'd save some $$ and within 6 months I was replacing them again. After that I decided to go to rubber-well, I also wanted disk brakes so it was convenient.



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