Front suspension rebuild

[Greubin]

I'm getting ready to order parts and wondering if I should go with original bushings or poly. I plan on ordering most parts from ECE, but they don't supply 3/4 ton springs. Any ideas where I can order bushings, springs, shocks?

Also - are there any pitfalls I may run into changing out the front end parts?

Thanks!

[cdowns]

alot of stuff is over the counter stuff at most local parts stores with no cost for shipping

[bigo181979]

I purchased all my stuff at the local parts store for just shy of $400 and it was all moog parts.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by bigo181979

I purchased all my stuff at the local parts store for just shy of $400 and it was all moog parts.

I can't remember if it's advance or autozone that has MOOG, but that's where I got everything. The only thing I couldn't get were the rubber disk brake hoses. I ordered those from LMC.

As far as the springs... I dunno?

[whatnow123]

Originally Posted by Greubin

I'm getting ready to order parts and wondering if I should go with original bushings or poly. I plan on ordering most parts from ECE, but they don't supply 3/4 ton springs. Any ideas where I can order bushings, springs, shocks?

Also - are there any pitfalls I may run into changing out the front end parts?

Thanks!

I may be wrong and I'm not sure what front end you have, but the 67/72 doesn't use rubber bushings in the front, the later front ends do, I think, that's why I'm saying this. The trailing arms have rubber bushings, the front uses some sort of metal screw in bushings with a rubber grease seal.

[fastwillie 696969]

do yourself a favor get poly and i would get them with zert fittings

[Greubin]

Originally Posted by whatnow123

I may be wrong and I'm not sure what front end you have, but the 67/72 doesn't use rubber bushings in the front, the later front ends do, I think, that's why I'm saying this. The trailing arms have rubber bushings, the front uses some sort of metal screw in bushings with a rubber grease seal.

It's a 71 C20. I wasn't aware that the front end did not have bushings, I just assumed so. Guess that's why ECE didn't add bushings to the parts quote I asked for. So, the only bushings would be for the sway bar?

Thanks for all the replies!!

[5150]

I can't remember if it's advance or autozone that has MOOG

I work at O'Reilly Auto Parts and we carry MOOG. I know the local Advance doesn't carry them.

Not sure where you are located Greubin

[dailydragger03]

Napa offers everything except the springs. We sell Dana or TRW

[Greubin]

I can get everything at LMC for $569 including springs and shocks

[5150]

That's high, of course LMC is high. Try using one of the vendors here on the board. I'm almost positive that they would beat that.

[twotrucks]

I bought everything listed below from O-Reilleys, however it is for a C10 1972:
2 Moog K6147 control arm kit $111.98
2 Moog K6117T balljoint $53.98
2 Moog ES2004S adj sleeve $21.98
1 Moog K6131 pitman arm $68.99
2 ADC K6124 ball joint $63.98
2 Moog ES415RL tie rod end $47.98
2 Moog K6098 control arm kit $83.98
2 Moog ES403L tie rod end $41.98
Total with tax $524.55
You may find a cheaper kit, however these are all Moog components available locally - no shipping charges. These parts are heavy. PS - Autozone has some cheaper parts I believe they that some of the stuff was TRW. Good Luck

[5150]

O'Reilly also carries a lower brand called AutoDrive, which is made by TRW. At my store it is usually at least 35%-40% cheaper then MOOG.

[5150]

For the AutoDrive Brand:

Upper Ball Joint-15.99x2
Lower Ball Joint-13.99x2
Upper Control Arm Kit:29.99x2
Lower Control Arm Kit:34.99x2
Pitman Arm:36.99
Outer Tie Rod End:11.99x2
Inner Tie Rod End:13.99x2
Adjusting Sleeve:6.99x2
Idler Arm:15.99

All of this costs less then $300 not including tax. AutoDrive uses the same part numbers as MOOG.

This is what I bought for my blazer, of course I got my discount, which made it all about $200 SWEET!!

[whatnow123]

Originally Posted by Greubin

It's a 71 C20. I wasn't aware that the front end did not have bushings, I just assumed so. Guess that's why ECE didn't add bushings to the parts quote I asked for. So, the only bushings would be for the sway bar?

Thanks for all the replies!!

I don't know about C20's, mostly just know about my truck since I just did it. They are similar from 67-72. The bushings are brass or some similar material like that, they screw into the A arms and have internal threads that the support shaft screws into. So installing them, the bushing gets screwed into both. Kind of a different design as the A arm movement moves on the threads of the shaft, the good news is there is no play in the suspension at all unlike a bushing suspension. There is FAQ thread that goes through the procedure as it takes a little (but not much) finesse to install the bushings. What I did was start the bushing (very fine threads on them, then screw in the shaft so it bottoms out and then out two turns. That seemed to work. The other thing, the lower ball joint is pressed in, so it need to be pressed out and the new one pressed in. Everything else is very basic and requires only hand tools and a tie rod fork. This is a much easier task then replacing a rubber bushing suspension ala Mopar for example.

One piece of advise, BUY NEW SHAFTS as well as the old ones will be wear mated to the old bushing. The bushing are a soft material and if you reuse the shaft, you are going to wear out the bushing very fast and will find yourself doing this job again in the very near future.

[Greubin]

All excellent info. I'll check with the local parts house.

[Greubin]

WTF, my local parts hourse quoted me $1087 for front end parts. Guess that must be San Francisco Bay Area prices..looks like I'll be ordering online. I'm going to check with NAPA next before going online.

[timcos]

So is there a good FAQ on rebuilding a front end of a K10...

[Ozona]

I just did this myself on my '72. Ideally you use a press to handle the lower ball joint removal and installation. The giant "C" clamp thing/free tool rental was a bear to use even with a 450lb impact wrench. Remove the bushings from the control arms or at least loosen them after you take the springs out but while they're still on the truck. You'll need an air hammer and rivet cutter to replace the upper ball joins or a center punch and a careful/steady drill hand. At some point GM replaced the stock U bolts with heavier duty ones which are still stocked at the dealers. I purchased my whole front end rebuild kit from Early Classic. They're great to deal with.

Then I tackled the rear leaf springs...yow. All good now.