Starting issue..

[hiridn69gmc]

I just traded my 73 Nova for a 71 C10. This is my first post but I will try to get some pictures up soon.

As for the question. I also have a 69 GMC 4x4 and at random times starting I will turn the key and nothing. It will also draw a lot of current. If you click it over a few times it might start, or come back 10 min later it might also. Now I thought I was over that seeing that the truck has been in storage for 7 years.
Now I have my 71, and wouldn't you know the same issue. If anyone has any ideas of what this could be or if it is something common I missed in my search I would appreciate the help.

Thank you
Brandon

[raiders3581]

welcome to the board. If you already checked that all grounds and connections are clean and secure you may have a starter with a dead spot. When you bump the key it moves just enough to get past. If this happens after youve driven it you may want to look into the remote solenoid. Hope this helps good luck

[rage'nrat638]

WELCOME TO THE BOARD..
there a little black connection box on the inner fender on the passenger side right next to the battery. remove the nut and wires clean and reinstall.
if that get's rusty or loose..nothing happens

[hiridn69gmc]

I know the wiring isn't the greatest, it will probably be an investment soon. The grounds should be good, and I will check that black box. I hate working though anothers cluster job, but thats part of owning an older vehicle.

Thanks for the responses.

Brandon

[VetteVet]

Welcome to the boards.
There are a lot of starting issues comin up on the boards so you will get plenty of help.
You need to provide a little info though. Do you have an automatic or standard? If automatic then the neutral start switch can cause a broken circuit in the starter solenoid purple wire that goes to the inside terminal of the solenoid. Does the solenoid click every time you try to start it, or do you get nothing at all? I suspect that since you get an amperage draw the solenoid is working and either the contact washer inside the solenoid is corroded or the starter has internal problems. There is a third possibility and hopefully it is the problem. The battery cable connection at rhe starter may be corroded and not making a good connection. This will create high resistance and cause the current draw that you mentioned. You can eliminate everything down to the solenoid by jumping the s terminal on the solenoid to the positive cable I mentioned. Keep in mind that the vehicle will start in gear so be sure to have it in P or N with the brake locked if you do this. I have included a diagram below showing the circuit.
If you have HEI ignition then you can ignore the coil and wire in the diagram.


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[hiridn69gmc]

Yes the truck is an automatic, sorry about that. Also it doesn't make any clicking noises, you just turn the key to the "start" position and my amps drop and lights dim. Doesn't do it when the starter actually engages. But if you keep turning the key enough times or let it sit, it will eventually start. Or jump the starter while key is in "start" position. That sucks cuase it requires 2 people. Starter won't engage in just "on" position, just spins. I will have to go through the wiring, it is all rigged up and see what I come up with.

Thanks

[hiridn69gmc]

Also, I have the HEI, but still have a wire going to the coil side. Is this normal, or should it just be the positive cable and the starter wire?

[VetteVet]

The wire going to the coil is used to feed 12 volts to the coil during starting. Then the coil voltage comes from the ignition switch through a resister wire to the positive side of the coil for normal running. Since you hve HEI which requires 12 volts all the time you no longer need either of those wires.
I think you have a bad solenoid, from your description. If you can confirm that you get 12 volts on the purple wire at the solenoid every time you turn the key switch to start, it would eliminate the starter circuit. If you can hook up a volt meter between the purple wire terminal and ground then have someone turn the key switch to start a few times, this will test the start circuit. HTH.

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by hiridn69gmc

I know the wiring isn't the greatest, it will probably be an investment soon. The grounds should be good, and I will check that black box. I hate working though anothers cluster job, but thats part of owning an older vehicle.

Thanks for the responses.

Brandon

just because the ground wires are there doesnt mean they are good the only way to be sure is to remove them clean them and reinstall them// i've seen people assuming good grounds spending hundreds of dollars when all that was needed was a piece of sandpaper and some common sence effort

[krue]

Looks like your lined out, so I'd like to welcome you to the board from South Mississippi!

[hiridn69gmc]

By the purple wire, are you meaning the one coming out of the plug on drivers side. Reason I'm asking is because a lot of wiring is hacked in truck and was just wondering if I got the right one.

I will clean all the grounds also, just to make sure.

Also could it still be the selonoid if it still starts at most times, just random times here and there where nothing will happen and I am drawing tons of amperage.

Thanks
Brandon

[VetteVet]

Yes the purple wire in the firewall plug next to the master cylinder is the one that goes to the solenoid. Go back and re-read all the posts and follow our suggestions about cleaning the connections and making good grounds. If you are getting amperage draw when the starter won't turn then your purple wire is ok and the problem is in the starter and if the solenoid has not made the loud click then that is the problem. You might be better off to just replace the starter and solenoid and not get stranded someplace. Good luck and keep us posted.

[hiridn69gmc]

Yeah, I checked and the purple wire is getting the voltage. I was reading a little more into starter issues and now that I think of it, it only seems to be doing it when hot.
So next step is getting the new starter put in, and I think just for comfort reasons putting the ford solenoid in too.

One more question. Is there any good recommendations on starters for newer years that would work better than others. The truck has an HEI so I wouldn't have to worry about the coil wiring.

Thanks for all the help and advice and I will let you know how it all works out.

Brandon

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by hiridn69gmc

Yeah, I checked and the purple wire is getting the voltage. I was reading a little more into starter issues and now that I think of it, it only seems to be doing it when hot.
So next step is getting the new starter put in, and I think just for comfort reasons putting the ford solenoid in too.

One more question. Is there any good recommendations on starters for newer years that would work better than others. The truck has an HEI so I wouldn't have to worry about the coil wiring.

Thanks for all the help and advice and I will let you know how it all works out.

Brandon

Well now, that elusive missing bit of information
There are a lot of guys using the mini high torque starters and don't seem to have the hot starter probs. Pricey though.
The remote starter solenoids work well if the starter works ok otherwise.
Here is the link for putting them in.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206882 VV

[hiridn69gmc]

Lol, yeah it was elusive. I guess its not something thought of when you are out in a parking lot turning the key with nothing happening.

Well after a 12 hour day at work, I thought it would be fun to jump into it immediately. Bought a new starter and the Ford solenoid and this is what I ended up with.




So everything fired up right away. After an end to these 12 hour days I will have to get in and clean some more of the wiring up! I'll have to drive it around for a while and see the improvement, but even the start reaction was a lot faster now.
Thank you for all the help
Brandon