BASIC front end rebuild - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bw4sale · 02-24-2007, 02:57 PM

In a recent thread there was a lot said about front end rebuilds, but I didn't find what I was looking for. What is the bare minimum for a front end rebuild. What parts are a must to replace and what is optional. They were talking about spending $500. I'm looking to get by with a lot less if possible. I know I've seen kits in CT magazine with front end kits for less than $200. Is this enough? My front end is pretty loose. Thanks.

Longhorn Man · 02-24-2007, 03:10 PM

well, first, you need to locate the actual problem. If your steering gear box is trashed, ball joints won't do jack.
I would replace the upper and lower ball joints, and the tie rod ends too. If the control arm bushings and cross shafts are in good shape and take grease, I'd let them go. I've seen them last 500,000 miles, and still be in good shape.

davidh · 02-24-2007, 03:11 PM

the cheaper rebuild kits dont include pitman arms, idler arms usually. I'm getting ready to cough up $500 too. It will drive so much better it will be worth it.

cdowns · 02-24-2007, 03:24 PM

the problem with patch type of front end rebuilds is if your ball joints are worn from 200-300thousand miles of wear every other part has that same high mileage wear also// you can replace every part in your front suspension for far lessthan a stay in the intensive care unit at your local hospital

70GMCer · 02-24-2007, 03:38 PM

go here......

http://www.p-s-t.com/truck/tvcatalog.html

72armyswbtruck · 02-24-2007, 07:42 PM

That's a nice link

weasel29gm · 02-24-2007, 07:48 PM

Get a price from NAPA

Joe67 · 02-24-2007, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70GMCer

go here......

http://www.p-s-t.com/truck/tvcatalog.html

I used their rubber rebuild kit for my project

I bought the inner/outer tie rods as well as upper and lower ball joints.
I had to get the sleeves at my local auto parts store - that was strange.
I went with MOOG pitman and idler arms from local auto parts as well.

st1x10 · 02-24-2007, 08:08 PM

Joe do you have the prices for the pitman and idler arm, just for some idea of total cost? I saw performanceonline.com had both for around $100 before shipping. How do the local places compare?

Joe67 · 02-25-2007, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by st1x10

Joe do you have the prices for the pitman and idler arm, just for some idea of total cost? I saw performanceonline.com had both for around $100 before shipping. How do the local places compare?

I can get you the numbers at home on Monday. I belive it was right about $100 for both at the store, but I will confirm.

TNChevyMan · 02-25-2007, 01:31 PM

I bought an entire kit for my '71 from CCP, www.classicperform.com. It included upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves, idler arm and a poly sway bar bushing kit. All this only ran me 269.00. I also bought some drop spindles from them as well, and I've only had great service. Their parts seem to be the real deal as everything I've ordered from them looks and feels like hard american steel, and none of the cheap chinese reproduction crap.

If you don't need the whole kit they sell everything individually as well.

Fred T · 02-25-2007, 03:53 PM

It's best if you replace everything with Moog parts. Far better than the import parts. Some of the on-line vendors sell them. On the older trucks, you usually need to replace everything. Control arm shafts & bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms. Also new u-bolts and shocks. It will make a huge difference in driving. I bought my parts locally, but you can usually save a few bucks on-line.

cableguy0 · 02-25-2007, 05:06 PM

in my opinion suspension and brakes are not the place to try to save a few bucks. they are safety items and not just your safety but the guy driving next to you. if a tie rod or ball join comes apart at speed you can count on doing a lot of damage to everything around you when you totally lose control of the truck.check the front end out and figure out what needs to be replaced now and work from there. im not saying everything needs to be done right now or your going die but its just not the place to save a couple dollars. one or two worn out parts will make the front end very sloppy depending on whats worn out.

Joe67 · 02-25-2007, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by st1x10

Joe do you have the prices for the pitman and idler arm, just for some idea of total cost? I saw performanceonline.com had both for around $100 before shipping. How do the local places compare?

I paid $80 from the local auto parts for my MOOG pitman arm.
Correction on the idler arm - that was NOS GM purchased from an ebay seller $39.00 shipped.

stsalvage · 02-26-2007, 02:43 AM

i just replaced my hole front end in my 1972 3/4 ton and now i'm replaceing the rear leaf spring bushings and shackles i rode in a 1971 that was done the same way before it was done and after well the first time i rode in it every thime we hit a pot hole we ehere all over the road and anything over 35-40 mph the truck got dangurs lose now we go for a drive wow feels like a brand new truck and anyone can drive it very smooth i think 450.00 pays for all the parts for my 1972 3/4 ton out the door now the labor is where it will get you 500.00 to just have some one put it on your truck all i can say drill out your upper ball joints and use a air hammer to take the ribbit heads off

02-24-2007, 02:57 PM	#1
bw4sale Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Hendersonville, TN Posts: 1,528	BASIC front end rebuild In a recent thread there was a lot said about front end rebuilds, but I didn't find what I was looking for. What is the bare minimum for a front end rebuild. What parts are a must to replace and what is optional. They were talking about spending $500. I'm looking to get by with a lot less if possible. I know I've seen kits in CT magazine with front end kits for less than $200. Is this enough? My front end is pretty loose. Thanks. __________________ BRENT -'68 Stepside Project -'98 Z71 Daily Driver -Enough extra parts to build another truck and a half

02-24-2007, 03:10 PM	#2
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Re: BASIC front end rebuild well, first, you need to locate the actual problem. If your steering gear box is trashed, ball joints won't do jack. I would replace the upper and lower ball joints, and the tie rod ends too. If the control arm bushings and cross shafts are in good shape and take grease, I'd let them go. I've seen them last 500,000 miles, and still be in good shape.

02-24-2007, 03:11 PM	#3
davidh Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Ponca city now kingfisher Oklahoma Posts: 1,220	Re: BASIC front end rebuild the cheaper rebuild kits dont include pitman arms, idler arms usually. I'm getting ready to cough up $500 too. It will drive so much better it will be worth it. __________________ Even the nicest dodge-chrysler is only 2years away from being parked outside of Section 8 housing.

02-24-2007, 03:24 PM	#4
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: BASIC front end rebuild the problem with patch type of front end rebuilds is if your ball joints are worn from 200-300thousand miles of wear every other part has that same high mileage wear also// you can replace every part in your front suspension for far lessthan a stay in the intensive care unit at your local hospital __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

02-24-2007, 03:38 PM	#5
70GMCer Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Joppa, Maryland Posts: 4,408	Re: BASIC front end rebuild go here...... http://www.p-s-t.com/truck/tvcatalog.html __________________ 1997 GMC Sierra Ext 1965 Mustang

02-24-2007, 07:42 PM	#6
72armyswbtruck Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,033	Re: BASIC front end rebuild That's a nice link __________________ "Remember, They can Kill You, but they can't eat You, That's against the law!!!!!!!!!"

02-24-2007, 07:48 PM	#7
weasel29gm SLOW BUT SURE,BUT CLOSER Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: eleanor wv usa Posts: 3,097	Re: BASIC front end rebuild Get a price from NAPA __________________ 69 C-10, OWNED 38YRS... 350 over 30, 350 Turbo, 3:73 Posi P/S, P/B Black with red and black int. ''LOVE THESE OLD ''TRUCKS.......

02-24-2007, 08:08 PM	#9
st1x10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 588	Re: BASIC front end rebuild Joe do you have the prices for the pitman and idler arm, just for some idea of total cost? I saw performanceonline.com had both for around $100 before shipping. How do the local places compare? __________________ 1970 Chevy C10 "Under Construction" 2002 Chevy S10 V6

02-25-2007, 01:31 PM	#11
TNChevyMan Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 14	Re: BASIC front end rebuild I bought an entire kit for my '71 from CCP, www.classicperform.com. It included upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves, idler arm and a poly sway bar bushing kit. All this only ran me 269.00. I also bought some drop spindles from them as well, and I've only had great service. Their parts seem to be the real deal as everything I've ordered from them looks and feels like hard american steel, and none of the cheap chinese reproduction crap. If you don't need the whole kit they sell everything individually as well. Last edited by TNChevyMan; 02-25-2007 at 01:39 PM.

02-25-2007, 03:53 PM	#12
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	Re: BASIC front end rebuild It's best if you replace everything with Moog parts. Far better than the import parts. Some of the on-line vendors sell them. On the older trucks, you usually need to replace everything. Control arm shafts & bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms. Also new u-bolts and shocks. It will make a huge difference in driving. I bought my parts locally, but you can usually save a few bucks on-line. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

02-25-2007, 05:06 PM	#13
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,948	Re: BASIC front end rebuild in my opinion suspension and brakes are not the place to try to save a few bucks. they are safety items and not just your safety but the guy driving next to you. if a tie rod or ball join comes apart at speed you can count on doing a lot of damage to everything around you when you totally lose control of the truck.check the front end out and figure out what needs to be replaced now and work from there. im not saying everything needs to be done right now or your going die but its just not the place to save a couple dollars. one or two worn out parts will make the front end very sloppy depending on whats worn out. __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

02-26-2007, 02:43 AM	#15
stsalvage Scrapper 1 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Riverside Calif Posts: 1,649	Re: BASIC front end rebuild i just replaced my hole front end in my 1972 3/4 ton and now i'm replaceing the rear leaf spring bushings and shackles i rode in a 1971 that was done the same way before it was done and after well the first time i rode in it every thime we hit a pot hole we ehere all over the road and anything over 35-40 mph the truck got dangurs lose now we go for a drive wow feels like a brand new truck and anyone can drive it very smooth i think 450.00 pays for all the parts for my 1972 3/4 ton out the door now the labor is where it will get you 500.00 to just have some one put it on your truck all i can say drill out your upper ball joints and use a air hammer to take the ribbit heads off



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