Which radiator to buy?

[rophle1]

I'm trying to decide between a Griffen or Be Cool radiator. Anybody have some pros and cons for each brand?

Thanks in advance!
Ronnie

[metalmassfab]

Hmmm...I kinda feel like a vulture doing this again, but here goes. Not sure which Griffin you're looking at, but the Be-Cool units are way over priced! I'm working on a new line of radiators for the '67-'72 trucks with nice fabricated tanks, and billet fillers, inlet/outlets. Also, aluminum dual fan shrouds, catch cans...etc. I cant say any $$ here, but these are not nearly as high $$ as Be-Cool. The pic rad is a different application, just for G.P. Send me a PM or email metalmassfab@gmail.com for more info and pricing

[Sonny]

Get with Shifty. He went thru an ordeal to find the best rad for the buck for his truck.

Sonny

[martinkh]

Unless you need something that is pimptastic, just put on a factory style 4 core, available at any radiator shop. If you run an automatic, the 4 core (big block) radiator has a bigger integral hydraulic oil cooler, it goes from 7.5 inches long to 11.5 inches, measured from inlet to outlet.

[rophle1]

I'm really worried about cooling issues. Before I rebuilt the engine, I couldn't let it idle too long or sit at a drive thru without it getting too hot. I rebuilt it and bored it .030 and went to do the break-in, but couldn't let it run long enough to properly break it in due to getting too hot. It had a 3 core in it and I know the very least I need to do is get a 4 core, but from everything I've read aluminum is much better. The truck had to sit a couple of years before I could get it back up and running and the radiator turned to crap during that time.

It may be overkill, but I have an eating problem and like to go through Burger King drive-thrus without overheating.

[martinkh]

4 core and an aux tranny cooler should work, depends on how hot your cam is. Check your fan clutch, it could be letting you down.