need suggestions on my 350

[Billla]

Originally Posted by jlaird

Clean and inspect: $100.00
Align Hone: $165.00
Deck: $120.00
Bore & Hone: two ways, $175 or $270
Install cam bearings and plugs: $42.50 + parts
R&R pistons on rods: $70.00
Recondition Rods: $135 + parts

Most of these are right on in terms of pricing...but the question is what do you need? An align hone is NOT needed for a street engine making < 400 HP, nor is a bore/hone with torque plates (likely the more expensive of the two options). The rod recon price should include new bolts; make sure they're ARPs. Decking the block is only required if it won't clean up within specs.

Lots of good rebuild kits - do a search, but I've used the ones from Summit to good success.

I'd agree that $900 for machine work and assembly is a screaming deal; usually a shop will charge $250 - $450 for assembly.

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by BACKYARD88

I usually tear my engines down myself. I take all of the parts to the machine shop. I've known the owner for a long time and my Dad knew him for a long time before that. I give him an idea of what kind of performance I'm looking for, my budget, and any specifics (cam specs, name brand parts, etc.) I mat want. He does all of the machine work, installs the cam bearings and freeze plugs, checks the rods, and installs the pistons on the rods if they're press on. He gathers all of the parts and gaskets I need, this way I know that everything will work well together, then I pick it all up and put it back together. The last one I did was a 350 short block (got some brand new Vortecs for it ). He did all of the machine work including a .060 bore, new speed pro pistons, comp cam, lifters, rings, bearings, oil pump and all of the gaskets and crap to put it together for a little under 900.00. I don't know if this will help you any but maybe it'll give you an idea of what it should cost. I know he doesn't cut me any huge breaks, but he doesn't gouge me either. Wow, sorry for the long post.

So did the $900 include assembly?

[BACKYARD88]

Originally Posted by jlaird

So did the $900 include assembly?

That did not include assembly. Assembling the engine is my favorite part of building a car/truck.

[RACINJASON22]

Originally Posted by jlaird
Clean and inspect: $100.00
Align Hone: $165.00
Deck: $120.00
Bore & Hone: two ways, $175 or $270
Install cam bearings and plugs: $42.50 + parts
R&R pistons on rods: $70.00
Recondition Rods: $135 + parts

It's been about two years since my last complete engine. When I had the machine work done I had the block checked, hot tanked, line bored/honed, zero deck, bored with torque plates, cam bearings installed my own freeze plugs. Didnt have to get rods reconditioned as I used new and installed my own piston being put on full floating not pressed total cost for machine work $435.00. Geographic area may come into play.

I do agree with what Billla said about...the question is what do you need? Not all of this is needed for a street engine, The one I had this machine work done for was a track/race build.

I may get alittle better price because at the time I did get alot of work done but, I don't amagine it was a great amount. Also I'm sure prices have gone up a little in this time frame. Still sounds high to me. Sorry for the long post RJ22

[Billla]

Here's a great reference for the Seattle area - my NEW machine shop. The list takes a little digging to get through...

http://www.actionmachine.com/shop.html

[jlaird]

Got a big surprise today. My brother and I pulled the engine. Turns out I've got a 305! Lesson learned: don't belive what the PO tells you the engine is. Check casting numbers!

So this changes plans....gotta figure out what I'm going to do for an engine now. What would you do with a tight budget? Crate 350?

[Billla]

The nice thing about a crate is that it's a fixed cost - you know exactly what you're spending and getting Within your 1-2K budget, that would be my recommendation. The Goodwrench replacement engine with reusing your intake, carb and distributor should get you back running within your budget.

Be careful - just a few "while I'm in there" decisions will put you way over budget...

[jlaird]

billa, if I do get the 260 hp crate, what accessories would you remommend I buy new vs. taking off the 305? I'm wondering about things like water pump, harmonic balancer, flexplate, fuel pump, alternator, starter, etc. Should any of these be replaced just for "cheap insurance?"

[Billla]

Originally Posted by jlaird

billa, if I do get the 260 hp crate, what accessories would you remommend I buy new vs. taking off the 305? I'm wondering about things like water pump, harmonic balancer, flexplate, fuel pump, alternator, starter, etc. Should any of these be replaced just for "cheap insurance?"

The water pump and fuel pump can be replaced just because they're stinkin' cheap IMHO a balancer should always be replaced - they're not so cheap but the price of failure is high.

Everything else IMHO is a keeper - especially within your budget. Those are things that can always be changed later. I would pinch pennies everywhere you can - everything OUTSIDE of the engine can always be changed later if it basically works, right?

[2nd_wnd]

Persoanlly I'd look in the papers for somebody selling a 350. I can build a motor for under $100 easily.
Machine work maybe $200 if I get it bored (which is what I'm doing to my 72 gmc.
here's the kit I bought from Northern Auto Parts.


1 Master Kit #1070 Chevy 350 69-80 - Master Kit
Options For: Master Kit #1070 ($169.99)
mainbrgs: std
pistons: std
rings: .030
rodbrgs: std
FrostPlugs: Brass + $9.40
CloyesDoubleRollerTiming: Cloyes True Roller # 9-1100SP + $21.35
HighVolume: Oil pump (must use oil pump shaft with steel pin sleeve) + $8.63
Camshaft: Speed Pro 2000-4500 RPM # CS1013R 214/224 adv duration .443/.465 lift + $19.13
CleviteBrgs: Clevite Brgs + $6.00
HypereutecticPistons: Hypereutectic Pistons (flattop) # H345NP + $19.96
OilPumpShaft: High Volume Oil pump shaft (must be used with high volume pump) + $6.99
$261.45
Subtotal $261.45
Shipping & Handling $21.99
Total $283.44


I'll try and remember to post a build thread when I start assembly

[flatheadnut0]

There has to be some gearheads in your area. Go to www.good-guys.com and give them a call. I know there's some old farts up there in NY that would love to help you get started. You should be able to buy a master rebuild kit for that 350 for $200 and the machine work shouldn't be more than $500, if your heads are OK. Take it from ol' flathead you'll have a blast if you can find someone to help you. And then when you're done, you can say I built her myself, with a little help from my friends. Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jlaird]

A donor truck is definetly on my mind. I could use it for not only the engine, but possibly the trans if it is better than the one I have as well as disk brakes, booster, m/c. There are a ton in my local Want Ad. Any suggestions on what to look for would be welcome.

[jlaird]

I think i found a good motor and deal overall. A friend of my father's has a 350, recently rebuilt, mild cam, edel. intake and carb, Accel HEI, shorty headers (which I need). Only thing is I have to buy the whole truck. Not a big deal though because I got him down to $600. I listened to the engine, idles nice, no smoke or knocks, etc. Didn't drive it though because it has been sitting for a couple months and had flat tires. It has a standard tranny, so I'm even thinking about using that too. It also has two new flowmaster 40's. Got a couple questions:

Would I be able to use the booster and M/c off this truck? Oh, its an 89 3/4 ton. It's got front disk and rear drum so I would get a new prop. valve. Also, how hard is it to convert from auto to stick? I'm about to do some research, but if want to comment on that, by all means...

Let me know what you guys think!!

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

You will only do this once for the time that you will own the truck. Reputable shops back up there work but if you screw something up there goes the parts etc. your out of pocket. New crate motors are in my opinion the way to go .... out of the crate and into the frame, whats to screw up?? Unless you want to keep it stock & restore it to original there is no reason to go through the rebuild process. If you find that it is the original motor but want to spice things up a little under the hood just put it aside in case you sell the truck. If the block has been replaced I would not even consider rebuilding in a machine shop.

Having said that I would take the advice given and go for the HEI, tune up and set up the carb and replace the gasket, get yourself a vacuum gauge and see how you make out before you buy a carb. Do what you can with what you already have paid for before you start tossing it out. You might just surprise yourself .... you might get 1000's of miles out of what you have. FHS oil will stop the oil burning if your interested PM me and I'll give you the low down on this stuff.

There is a crate motor for every application all you have to do is decide what it is you want to accomplish with your ride.

Have fun what ever you decide to do,

esll.