Blazer tank Questions

[edmonton72]

I'm looking into buying a blazer tank soon. I was wondering if it would be better to get a steel or plastic tank. and also what have you guys done for fuel lines and a fuel filler.

[Putter]

STEEL. I have heard stories about the plastic ones 'sagging' when full in the heat.

I did the 'marker light' filler on my stepper.

As for fuel lines, I got one at the junkyyard from a long bed fullsize (88-98). That gave me a LARGE inline filter, near the rear, that can be replace with parts that are not hard to find. Plus I have a smaller inline filter under the hood....for extra protection. Very little additional bending required to run it along the inner frame.

[LUV2XCLR8]

I have one of each, steel in the Blammy, plastic in the 4wd, go STEEL

[edmonton72]

Thanks for the input. Good thing you guys told me not to get plastic because I was going to get one. Do you need to run a return line or is a line going for the tank to the pump. Also what would I use for a filler hose.

[Classic Heartbeat]

It's a toss up. The plastic tanks are D.O.T. certified and little more durable than the steel ones plus they do not rust. The steel ones are like the originals. They are durable but can dent when smacked with a limb, or dent badly like mine did when I crossed a RR track wrong!! Anyway, the plastic ones do not sag when they get hot unless you get them over about 400 degrees!! Then I would be worried about more than sagging tanks!! Remember just about all of the new cars have plastic tanks now. They all require 1 3/8 filler tube and 7/16" vent tubes. By the way we have all of the above in stock..lol WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

[sdkid]

I chose the blazer tank for cost, and poly to be rid of rust issues.

Putter. Thats a great idea for the fuel line. I never thought of that.

[68caliRat]

For the metal tanks, the outside could be protected with POR15, or a good bedliner coating. It won't stop rust on the inside, but the outside would be durable, and rust free. If you want to keep the inside rust free I guees just keep it full of fuel..I actually try to keep my tank at half full or above at all times, But that's so I don't run into an emergency or something with no gas and have to waste time filling up.

[SCOTI]

If I may seek more info from those that have done the conversion (truck in-cab tank to blazer tank), would it be possible to raise the tank in relation to the frame if the bed-floor was not directly on top of it? Could the straps be adjusted & re-used if so?

[Bob Moore]

Scotti - I haven't done it but it looks possible. The original location is the bottom of the lower frame rail. You could raise it (using some spacers) any amount until you hit the bottom of the upper rail. No spacers needed to raise it all the way to the upper rail. I'm sure the aftermarket straps could be modified. A little harder to modify the factory ones but probably doable.

Anybody else have ideas for scotti?

[jorgensensc]

I thought about this when I did the Blazer tank conversion FAQ. I wasn't sure how high I could raise it because of the thickness of the wood bed. I was afraid of hitting all of the hoses on the botttom of the bed. I think it would take some trial and error, but could be done rather easily..
Shawn

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Bob Moore

.... You could raise it (using some spacers) any amount until you hit the bottom of the upper rail. No spacers needed to raise it all the way to the upper rail.

This is exactly what I was thinking.... raising it to the bottom of the upper rail which should be about 3" (+/-).