03-27-2007, 06:38 PM | #1 |
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Control arm questions
I've got my control arms off to clean up. Got a couple questions:
UPPER ARMS: Is the cross shaft supposed to rotate freely by hand? One of them I can only rotate about 60 degrees by hand. The other one I cant rotate at all even if I put it in a vise. It seems to be stuck. Should I put new bushings in these? LOWER ARMS: What is the round divet for on the cross shaft? I noticed that the cross shaft seems to turn on threads about an 1/8" from side to side. Is this normal? Is it for alignment purposes? Thanks for any info. josh |
03-27-2007, 06:41 PM | #2 |
Who's got steelies?
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Re: Control arm questions
The round divit, is for locating the shaft on the frame. there is a pin on the front mounting bracket that it should go into.
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03-27-2007, 07:11 PM | #3 |
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Re: Control arm questions
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03-27-2007, 07:19 PM | #4 |
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Re: Control arm questions
pic of what I'm talking about
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03-27-2007, 07:24 PM | #5 |
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Re: Control arm questions
Yes - that divit fits on the pin in the saddle mount on the front side of the crossmember. The small u-bolt hold it in place. The pin and divit lock the shaft in place front to rear and prevent rotation. Feel the bottom of saddle area or look at it. It's there.
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03-27-2007, 08:59 PM | #6 |
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Re: Control arm questions
Ok, thanks. anybody on my other questions?
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03-27-2007, 09:16 PM | #7 |
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Re: Control arm questions
yes you should be able to move the shafts by hand but not to freely, i would replace all the bushings and everything will be good and the ride will probly be a little better to
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03-27-2007, 11:11 PM | #8 |
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Re: Control arm questions
"I noticed that the cross shaft seems to turn on threads about an 1/8" from side to side. Is this normal? Is it for alignment purposes?"
Exactly
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03-28-2007, 01:27 AM | #9 |
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Re: Control arm questions
I'm doing the same thing on mine, and its a pain, I'm using new shafts, bushings, and boots and no matter what I do I cannot get them to turn by hand once the end nuts have seated. My manual says to mount the shafts with the u-bolts loose in the truck, then tighten the end caps, it also lists a specification for distance between the end shoulder of the shaft and the control arm. I think these torque to like 160, this type of suspension is crap, and no fun to work on.
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03-28-2007, 07:33 AM | #10 | |
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Re: Control arm questions
Quote:
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03-28-2007, 01:38 PM | #11 |
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Re: Control arm questions
Peace of mind. When I did my front end I replaced the cross shafts and end nuts. I've read several posts saying that the cross shaft threads will strip out if you don't use new ones.
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1969 C10 LWB W/ 250 I6 & 3spd 1970 C10 with '67 small window cab, 68 front end, blue; 305/TH350, 3.08 limited slip rear end, manual brakes, power steering; & 4-wheel drums-My daily driver. 1975 Chevelle Malibu Classic Coupe 350/th350 mint green 1970 C20 Suburban 350/700R4 4.10 gearing green & white 1978 Big 10 Silverado 350/th350, working ac, 2 tone blue-My summer daily driver 1983 GMC 1500 Sierra 305/SM465 2.73 rear end How to add a trip odometer to your 67-72 stock speedometer How to rebuild your Q-Jet My Truck Page My Youtube Channel |
03-28-2007, 02:05 PM | #12 |
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Re: Control arm questions
when you tighten the nut down, if the nut bottoms out on the shaft, (before tigtening on the arm) you wont be able turn it. back off the nut, and turn the shaft a few turns counter clockwise from the nut, then re tighten the nut. picture this.. shafts installed, you drive to the alignment shop, they loosed up the ubolts, and turn the shaft to adjust the control arm fore and aft.
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