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#1 |
Lost amongst the CORN
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Northern Iowa
Posts: 1,072
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dent repair
I took some pictures of the process I did to remove some dents on my 49 chevy truck. Even thou my process is more geared for metal finishing, meaning no bondo, the SAME methods and ideas can be used to achieve less filler.
When I get more time today Ill do a description of what am doing, but the pictures do have somewhat of a caption...Eric http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2093955818
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Currently working on How To Videos and custom metal 70 Chevelle gettin Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK 70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY 49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original...close to it Drommer Stor....Norwegian for Dream Big http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/a...lle/?start=all https://www.flickr.com/photos/47922830@N03/ Pictures of my work and projects Last edited by sevt_chevelle; 03-30-2007 at 01:14 PM. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oakridge Oregon
Posts: 1,865
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Re: dent repair
You do some Amazing metal work !!!!!!
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68 CST SWB - Gold/White 50th anniversary /TH350/Buddy Buckets/3.73 Posi/dogdish caps. 68 K10 Burb - Gold/White 327/SM465/NP205/3.73 "Daa Burb" build thread Last edited by Mt Man Chad; 03-30-2007 at 03:54 PM. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ben Wheeler,Texas
Posts: 992
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Re: dent repair
All I can say is WOW. When you finish the videos look me up. I like to do it myself if I can.
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05 2500HD 6.0 excab 69 LWB-Gone but not forgotten! 68 Dodge Charger 383/727 69 Dodge Charger-440/4spd |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: northwestern wi
Posts: 2,111
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Re: dent repair
thats awsome!! what do you do if yoy cant get to th backside?
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common sense isn't so common anymore |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Hartford City, Indiana
Posts: 54
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Re: dent repair
Man you make that look so easy, I am half tempted to strip my truck right now. I won't because I know it won't look like that if I do it. Let me know when your videos are done.
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Let me tell you what Melba Toast is packin' right here, all right. We got 4:11 Positrac outback, 750 double pumper, Edelbrock intake, bored over 30, 11 to 1 pop-up pistons, turbo-jet 390 horsepower. We're talkin' some ****in' muscle. -Wooderson From the movie Dazed and Confused |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bakersfield,CA
Posts: 7,893
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Re: dent repair
damn i wish i was that good, im still workin on it but i aint to bad if i may say so meself
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-steven Alte Seele S.S. "Allison" '72 C/10 LWB 350SB/TH350 - DD PITBULL IS NOT A CRIME |
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#7 |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,865
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Re: dent repair
Beautiful work. I need a LOT more practice, as I am still the guy with the bondo.
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#8 |
*************
![]() Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 17,846
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Re: dent repair
Good stuff! I'm going to go start beating on some of my deformed metal.
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Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 |
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#9 |
Chief Honcho In Charge
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bentonville AR
Posts: 970
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Re: dent repair
Where does one buy and look for in quality metal working tools...hammers and dollies..etc?
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1992 1500 4x4 Shortbed 1984 Ford F250 Supercab Longbed 6.9L Diesel 1972 K10 Cheyenne Super Fleetside Short Bed - 350 - A/C 1971 VW SuperBeetle 1960 Wife 1984 Son 1986 Son 1989 Son Previous Trucks 1967 C10 SWB (1980-1981) 1971 C10 LWB (1998-2004) |
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#10 |
Resident Absorber
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WI
Posts: 131
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Re: dent repair
Awesome! .....I'm still sanding
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The best offense is a better DEFENSE! |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bakersfield,CA
Posts: 7,893
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Re: dent repair
i hate bondo
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-steven Alte Seele S.S. "Allison" '72 C/10 LWB 350SB/TH350 - DD PITBULL IS NOT A CRIME |
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#12 | |
Lost amongst the CORN
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Northern Iowa
Posts: 1,072
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Re: dent repair
Quote:
![]() Well, it depends on the location of the damage. Some times you can get long pry bars into a place. Some times you cut out the inner panel for access then weld it back up. But the average guy will just use a stud gun to weld pull attachments to dent and pull it out. Even thou they get you close its darn near impossible to get a metal finish using them. All depends on how far you want to go with it...Eric
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Currently working on How To Videos and custom metal 70 Chevelle gettin Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK 70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY 49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original...close to it Drommer Stor....Norwegian for Dream Big http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/a...lle/?start=all https://www.flickr.com/photos/47922830@N03/ Pictures of my work and projects |
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#13 |
Lost amongst the CORN
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Northern Iowa
Posts: 1,072
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Re: dent repair
I tried to do a write up on the process but couldnt explain it any better then this.
The following text was writting by Wray Schelin I 'll share with you how I remove a small dent . An easy example will work best, so lets say, its the rear fender of a XK120. The dent is in the middle of the rear section of the fender, and its is about the size of your fist, sunken in about 3/4" in the center. All paint and undercoating should be removed first. I would first select a dolly that has a crown that is close to the fender; in this case that would be a medium crown. Using a glove to protect my fingers I would palm the dolly and lightly tap it against the bump on the inside of the fender; carefully watching the progress of the rising depression. I would use this process until I got the dent up to within 1/8" of the surface. This will happen within minutes- this is called roughing out the dent. Next I would hold the dolly tightly against the center of the damage , on the backside, while I use the slapper on the front, tapping the circumference of the dent. This is a dolly off action, the slapper and dolly are not clashing with each other, they are beside one another. I would keep tapping away with the slapper, moving the dolly tightly with some force, against the lowest area of the dent. Slowly the dent will rise to very close to the surface level. The slapper does this operation very effectively because it has such a large surface area, compared to a hammer. With a hammer you're hitting a smaller area and you might dent the area you're hammering against because it will yield easier than the center of the dent. Roughing and slapping the dent has reduced the dent by about 90% and progress was swift. The next stage of metal finishing requires the bag of tricks and the tools. The problem that you encounter at this final stage is, you have trouble seeing what you're doing because your actions have to be small. When you were roughing you could easily see the metal move closer to the surface; but now you might only have to move the metal forty thousands of an inch or less to reach the true surface. At this stage a common practice is to use a pick hammer. In my opinion a pick hammer has many drawbacks: one- you need room to be able to swing it; and generally the hammer itself might be 6" or more across the head. Two- it is very easy to over hit with a pick hammer and cause irrepairable damage. Three- more likely than not you will not be able to strike the low spot, instead you will hit the high spot worsening the problem. The safest bet is to retire your pick hammer. This verdict also applies to the bulls-eye gimmick tools which use a C shaped frame to guide you to the elusive low spot. If you go down the bulls-eye road you will find your garage populated with many expensive sizes and versions absolutely needed to remove all those pesky dents and dings. You will always be one bulls-eye tool short. What I do at this stage is coat the damaged area entirely with the 1/2" wide red magic marker ( thats a US trade name for those who might not be familiar with them- there is no magic, its just a felt ink marker) Next I draw the fine body file over the area, just lightly skimming the surface, this will quickly reveal the high and low spots. The object now is to raise the low spots. You can do this by placing a dolly with a high crown surface tightly against the low spot. You will only be guessing at this point unless you have x-ray vision . You find out where you really are with the dolly by lightly slapping the surface, with the the slapper a few times, trying deliberately to strike the dollies crown. If you are successful - and you probably will be, because of the slappers large working surface- you will hear the ring of the contact of the metals. Slide the slapper to the side, but leave the dolly where it is. You should be able to see a 1/8" diameter ( a 1/8" inch affected area will raise quickly with little force , the size of the mark made when you slap it determines the speed of the metal rise. 1/8" is fast 1/2" is slow) clear spot, or slightly less inked, in a region of the small low spot that you were raising. If you goofed and hit a high area instead you should be able to see a difference there too. Whether you were in the right area or not is not important, what is most important, is establishing where you are and being able to adjust . Watch the trail marks left in the inked surface and you can steer the dolly, on the backside, easily to where it is needed. Slap lightly, slowly raising the low spot. After a few minutes, refile the area and your progress will become apparent. You might have to wash off the marker ink ; re-ink, and refile several times. Each working of the area will reduce the size of the low spots. Remember that the filing is meant just to scrape off the ink and not to reduce the thickness of the metal. The force and stroke of the slapper will be less as you progress. When you have reduced the low areas to less than 1/2" in diameter, and when you rub your hand over the area you still slightly feel them, you are ready to use the shrinking disc. The condition of the metal at this point is stressed and springy as a result of all the trauma inflicted on it. The original damage has been raised but in the process the metal has been stretched a little. If you applied bondo at this stage some of the bondo would surround the damaged area, feathering in the new surface height. With the marker ink still on, and a wet rag handy, crank up the body grinder with the shrinking disc and rub the area. You vary the pressure according to how much you need to shrink. On the first pass I usually apply light pressure. The metal will quickly begin to rise and expand from the heat build-up. Remove the disc and wipe the area with a wet rag. With that operation you have started to shrink, stress relieve and further fine tune the outline of the low spots. You can now re-mark with ink, file and further tap out the low spots with the slapper and dolly. Some dents might require several cycles, but as you hone your technique you should be able to remove most dents in fewer cycles . At this stage an obvious high spot might have developed. You can easily remove it by rubbing the shrinking disc over it; it will heat to a blue condition in seconds, and then cool with the wet rag. After I'm satisfied that I can no longer effectively raise any remaining tiny low spots (depressions only a few thousands of an inch deep). I then install the very dull 120 grit 9" grinding disc and proceed to work the area with it. The grinding disc will level the area leaving a almost polished surface, it will heat the area quickly also, so cool it with a rag after you done grinding. If you have done everything correctly you should have a very smooth surface , that is stress free and in no need of bondo. If you practice these techniques on some old , damaged, and unimportant sheetmetal parts you will quickly hone your skill.
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Currently working on How To Videos and custom metal 70 Chevelle gettin Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK 70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY 49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original...close to it Drommer Stor....Norwegian for Dream Big http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/a...lle/?start=all https://www.flickr.com/photos/47922830@N03/ Pictures of my work and projects |
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