Freeze 12 vs. 134a?

[72seeten]

I't's starting to get a little warm here. I bought this truck 6 months ago(1972 C10), and I just got around to putting the belt on the A/C. Needless to say, compressor turns, but it never gets cold. PO said it worked before, but I guess that's what I get for buying a non-running truck, haha. Now I am debating doing the 134a conversion or trying this freeze 12 stuff.

Anyone here had any experience w/ Freeze 12? "Google" came up w/ some mixed reviews. I know the 134a does not cool as well, and was wondering if anybody had any experience w/ the freeze 12, and what would you recommend. If I do the freeze 12 I would probably try to find the leak, charge it, and be done w/ it. (hopefully)

I know w/ the 134a you would need to flush the system, change the dryer and special POA valve correct?

TIA,

Steve

[Longhorn Man]

freeze 12 is 99% 134A. It is basicly a marketing gimmic from DuPont. Don't throw your money away on it.

[rage'nrat638]

134a don't work as good as r12 in a old system.

i would try to find r12 first if i were you.

i have a 134 sanden compressor and the new modified poa converter valve. and just wish i had the original set-up.

i have one can of r12 and one can of r12 oil i keep hoping it will have babys but no luck yet

[killer71]

The r134 is fine; it tends to run a higher head pressure but if you get the condensor fans it does fine. I have converted in my 71 and my 91 hardbody;

[MT1972cheyenne]

One more thing to consider:
R-134A Molecules are smaller than R-12 molecules, so if you have leaks with R-12, you are probably going to have more leaks with R-134A.

[Psycho71]

I've used Freeze-12 several times. It works. I've even dropped it in on top of R-12 (which your not supposed to do), and no problems there either.

Freeze 12 will cool better than R-134a in most retrofit applications.

Freeze 12 has a pressure curve which is close to R-12 while R-134a operates at significantly higher pressures than R-12. (this is why 134a doesn't work as well in a system designed for r-12).

Freeze 12 works with the existing mineral oil and does not require lubricant replacement as R-134a does.

They're not the same thing.

Hope this helps.
Jay

[rage'nrat638]

i have a box of freeze 12 and never used any of it

so it's good stuff a ?

[86k10]

Just change it to 134, BG company makes an excellent oil that works with any refrigerant and already has dye in it. You don't even need to change the dryer if you don't want to, but it would probably be a good idea. As far as flushing the system, not nessesary with the BG oil. But you can if you want to, changed a couple of 89 chevy pickups that still had r12 in them last summer and flushed them out, only to find a bunch of pinholes in the low side hose after recharging. They say not to flush them just for that reason. But as they say to each his own. I done my old 77 98 Olds and only drained what was left of the r 12, added the BG oil and charged it right back up with 134. Cools just as good as it did before. I would just go with the 134

[qksilver]

The trick with the 134 is to fit as big condensor as you can with lots of air flow,

[WorkinLonghorn]

I am using Freeze 12 in my car and am very happy with it.
Freeze 12 = Difluoromonochloroethane.
R-134a = 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane.
>>Different animals,different pressure curves (134a is much higher than R-12,Freeze 12 is nearly the same). Here's a link:
http://autorefrigerants.com/freeze12faq.htm
Here is a table of temperature/pressure characteristics of Freeze 12,R-12,and R-134a.
http://freeze-12.com/f-12presstemp.html

[70K10375]

I am a commercial and industrial refrigeration service technician and do not think 134a is worth a crap. The synthetic oil needed in these systems is the problem. These systems are more critical than the R-12 systems were.

[onetonk5]

As stated before my new compressor, dialed POA and new dryer blows 37-38 out the center vents in HOT and HUMID Alabama weather...doesnt really matter if im sitting still or moving.

[truckdude239]

much to common believe about having to flush the system when converting you do not have to any ore just pull old out with a system put in new oil and r134a with the new fittings as simple as that

[spdrcr29]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

much to common believe about having to flush the system when converting you do not have to any ore just pull old out with a system put in new oil and r134a with the new fittings as simple as that

I was told the same thing as above by 3 different a/c shops.... No Flush, vac out the old stuff, replace with Ester Oil (not PAG), add R134, add new fittings, and drive down the road after throwing the mechanic 150 bucks.
2 shops also said the A/C should be 20-40 degrees colder at the vents than ambient temperature, which is the bar for measurement in their opinion, but they told me not to even try getting a good read till it was 70 degrees outside. I live in Michigan, and right now its looking like it'll be July before we get any weather in the 70's, so I'm on hold with this conundrum.

R134A molecules are smaller (faster leakdown), but the good news is, R134a is available at parts stores for about 20 bucks for the hose and a can, so if it is a small leak, you can recharge it in the spring without the hassles of R12.

[haokah]

When my 72 was converted to 134, I had to add a pusher fan in front to get it to cool in stop and go or idle. I've still not been thrilled with the performance.
Sounds like it might be worth trying freeze 12.