need some bed wood advice

[67-72chevyman]

I just bought some red oak boards to redo the bed of my truck, and I don't know much on wood finishing. I have an idea on what I want it to look like I want to be light looking, and real glossy. Could some of you show me pictures of your bed floors, and tell me what you stained, and cleared your wood with? Thanks

[kyull67]

I used teak oil to seal them with a clear urethane over the top. The wood is red oak.

[Yeller68]

Red oak here also. I used Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. Sand, coat, sand, coat, sand, et... Started out using about 200 sandpaper, and was using 800 before the final coat. I think I ended up with 5 coats total.

[special-K]

That`s the stuff if you want the gloss.I swear by it on my work where gloss is wanted.Like Yeller said,do the coats,you "build it up".

[John Fabris]

You want to use a good spar varnish with UV protection. (from a boat supply shop) , NOT the Varathane varnish you can at home depot (it contains plastic, and will not expand and contract with heat) and therefore at best, it will last a year..

I used clipper clear varnish (now called Interlux Goldspar Clear) from West Marine, and when set up correctly, I was able to get 5 years out of it on my dad's sailboat (with teak wood) and the boat was in an uncovered berth, so it saw weather 24/7....

[67-72chevyman]

Hey yeller, did you use the urethane alone, or did you put anything on your boards before you urethaned it? I heard somewhere that you apply your finish with a rag, is this true? How durable is the minwax, the truck is mainly a show truck, but on occassion like in the summer its out in the weather.

[Yeller68]

Nothing went on before the urethane. Just sanded it, and then brushed it on. Use the highest quality brush you can find. Another hint, although it sounds like a pain. Sand the boards in a different place than where you apply the finish. Keep the finishing area as clean as you can. I even put down heavy duty paper on the floor, and kicked off my shoes when I was finishing. As for the durability, mine has only been done for about 8 months, and doesn't get exposed to weather, but so far, so good.

[slomotion]

I like Interlux's "Schooner 96" During my boat-building days I used a lot of different brands, but this seemed to work the best for me. I could write paragraphs of how-to, but I'd recommend you pick up a book on the subject. My favorite is "Brightwork, the art of finishing wood" by Rebecca Wittman.

I would certainly use a marine varnish with a high UV filter, and don't forget to do all sides, edges, and ends. They don't need to be as pretty as the top, but they do want to be sealed.

[oj70chevy]

Originally Posted by slomotion

I like Interlux's "Schooner 96" During my boat-building days I used a lot of different brands, but this seemed to work the best for me. I could write paragraphs of how-to, but I'd recommend you pick up a book on the subject. My favorite is "Brightwork, the art of finishing wood" by Rebecca Wittman.

I would certainly use a marine varnish with a high UV filter, and don't forget to do all sides, edges, and ends. They don't need to be as pretty as the top, but they do want to be sealed.

Hey slomotion is the Interlux's "Schooner 96" what you used on the boat in the top pic? I think that looks awsome! and would love to have the wood look like that in my truck.

Thanks
Ralph

[stllookn]

I have both of Rebecca's books...she is my wood working HERO! What kills me is the Longhorn 100 pt project will have to get a painted bed...no gloss! The big block Longhorn is going to have the brightwork!

[Sillyoldman]

Six coats of Spar marine on pine.

[slomotion]

Thanx Ralph, yes, that's the stuff we're talking about. That finish is on Mahogany which has a finer grain, but the same results can be had on oak with a couple more coats. There's really nothing hard about varnishing, it's all about prep and patience. BTW if you do decide to do it, don't buy an expensive varnish brush. Just pick up a dozen or so 2-3" foam brushes with the WOODEN handle. The plastic handled ones are OK for paint, but the foam cell is coarser and you're ultimately after a smooth flow which is what you'll get with the wooden handle brushes. After a brushing session you just pitch the brush, don't even try to re-use it.
After your deck is all milled, sanded and ready to go, I would turn the boards upside down and give the edges, ends and bottom about three coats. The ends will suck up the varnish like a sponge at first, but they'll seal after a while. Then, after the under-side is done, you can turn the boards over and concentrate on the "Show Side" and not have to worry about moving them around.
Buy Rebecca's book and follow along with her. I don't remember what it costs, but it's money well spent and you'll be totally comfortable with each step. When you get done you'll see yourself smile in the reflection!

[67-72chevyman]

Where do you get the marine stuff at, and about how much does it cost? how much does te minwax cost?

[John Fabris]

Here in CA we have West Marine stores, but they also have an online store that you can use...

Here is a LINK to their varnish page...

[slomotion]

The "96" I've talked about is the "Schooner" in John's link above. It's on the label, just hard to read. Minwax - I haven't a clue. It's good for furniture in a controlled invironment, but nothing I'd put on a truck bed.

This is a case of "you get what you pay for." You can drop a little more $$ now, and be good for two-three years before a touch up, or spend less and be prepared for a total redo which in the end will cost more because you need to do it twice.

Before you commit, get Rebecca's book and read it. Buy it, get it from a library, check out Amazon.com. but get it first. Then you can decide how you want to proceed. The worst thing that would happen is you get a new book.

[67-72chevyman]

Hey silly old man which spar did you use I went to the page and I believe there is 2 different types on it? About how much would you have to get for 6 coats?