Fresh Rubbers, Took my Top Off, They won't fit!

[stomper]

So I installed new Polyurethane body bushings. Left the top on when I did. Replaced one full side, then the other. Torqued #1 - 35 ft lb, #2 - 50 ft lb, and the rest - 20 ft lb, found specs here on the board, Thanks!

Only 5 shims on the whole truck. 4 were on the #2 driver side mount. After I loosened all nuts, driver side # 3 and #4 mounts were not even contacting the tub with the stock rubber still on. To make all sit, I removed 3 shims from #2 and put one in #3. With that, the doors still shut nice and easy. Didn’t measure anything but watched panel gaps and door alignment.

I took the top off and neither door shuts well. Both stick.

I will probably leave the top off most of the time if not indefinitely

Should I;

1. Align the doors
2. Shim the tub back the way it was then align the doors
3. Shim the tub to make the doors shut right
4. Shim the tub per spec then align the doors
5. Forget it – the doors never shut right with the top off.

Thanks for reading my lengthy post!

[pierce]

#3 shim the tub to make the doors shut right. For example, if the doors are tight at the top then shim the middle body mounts to bow the body up a little. It's alot of trial and error.

[Huck]

Keep in mind that you really need the door to B pillar and door vent window frame gap to windshield frame set up right as the front edge of door can be tweeked with the fenders and rad support positioning. The real problem is that the Blazers flex with the tops off--------. Try to minimize this with shims to the tub so as to have the best of both worlds--door opening with top on and off!! Yea, I know----good luck!

[Jtrux]

On Critter's truck we kept moving the shims around until they closed right. It took a while but it was worth it in the end. Maybe he'll chime in with some more input.

[Critter]

Originally Posted by Jtrux

On Critter's truck we kept moving the shims around until they closed right. It took a while but it was worth it in the end. Maybe he'll chime in with some more input.

Yeah, but I am a little worried about how we did things. I am worried that the gaps aren't right. We changed mine with he top off as well and I have a feeling it won't fit right when I put it back on. Plus my doors have most likely been “adjusted” quite a bit, so just because they close decent now, doesn’t mean that the A pillar to B pillar relationship is right. Anyway, glad you brought this up Stomper. I have been lying in bed for the last few weeks wondering about this. I plan to try to put the top back on and see how it fits.

[onetonk5]

Originally Posted by pierce

#3 shim the tub to make the doors shut right. For example, if the doors are tight at the top then shim the middle body mounts to bow the body up a little. It's alot of trial and error.

Damn dude....didnt know you were still on the board.
Bout to do a lot of work to your on k5

[stomper]

Damn! I really don't want to have to wrassle the top back on to adjust the shims. You know - like I said though, the doors shut nice with it on. So, I'm thinking if I put it back on to move shims around, it may move again when I take it off...again. Anyone know where I can get shims for the body bushings that are like the fender shims - slotted to the edge so you can slide them in/out without removing the bolt? Maybe I'll have to make some.

Does one shim the radiator support or loosen the front fender? The page from the manual doesn't mention this?

[stomper]

Got to the K5 this weekend. A little of #3 and a little of #1 and the doors close just fine. Trial an error using a floor jack to push up on the tub near the bushings after loosening the bolts - used total of 3 shims.

[Big Block]

Good info, I need to repalce mine now. I have a bad mount behind my door. My door is rubbing when closed.