1970 C20 8-lug brakes

[olyeller70]

I have a 1970 CST/20 with 8-lug 10 bolt and need to redo the back brakes. Need some how-to knowledge on this topic. Specifically on how to take it apart, looks like I need a large spline socket to get the axle out to get the drum out. But this is only a guess. If I am right, where do I get this socket?

[manimal]

It should have 2 screws holding the drum onto the axle. Remve those screws. now there will be another set of threaded holes in the drum, inset the screws or same thread bolts,into each of the threaded holes and begin to tighted the bolts. It will remove the drum. I know this to true for a Dana 60, but not too sure about an Eaton rear. Hope this helps.
-Lance

[olyeller70]

Took some pics tonight. Did some more looking, not a DANA since it has a round cover, no screws at the drum, removed some of the 8 bolts on hte axle and out came the juice. So with that said what is it and how do I do this brake job. And what juice do I put back in when done.

Thanks,
Mike

[Longhorn Man]

you need a special socket. I know snap on has there budget line (blue point) one for 60 bucks... I just got one 2 weeks ago... but I'm sure NAPA would have one cheaper.

[AKChevyman]

Also so you know that is a Eaton rear end and brake parts will be hard to come by just my .02 I figure when it comes time to do my brake I will convert to disks in the rear.

[Hart_Rod]

If you need parts or a complete rear end, let me know I have one. I may be coming that way this next weekend.

R

[Farmstore34]

When you pull the axle shafts out there will a large nut, a washer and another nut holding the outer bearing in. You can loosen them by tapping them with a hammer and a punch ( or chisel), on the corners of the nut. I know this is an old timers trick and not the factory approved way to do it but it works. You can reinstall them in the same manner.

[TONE]

That's exactly how you do it. Take those eight bolts out with a regular socket. Pull the axel out. There is a single nut in there with a washer behind it. On the washer, there is a flange bend down into that big nut. Pry it up, tap the nut counter clockwise, then spin by hand. The nut will come first, then two washers, then the drum. I have the same set up you do. You can find all the replacement parts at Napa. Believe it or not, there replacement parts were cheaper than in any catalog I looked through. The first one you may be a little confused, but after that, you'll be like, damn that was easy! good luck!

[stsalvage]

One thing to remmber when doing your 1/2--1 ton rear ends which i had to learn the hard way and after i fixed it man the rear breakes work so much better

remmber to put that brake shoe Lube on the backing plate reason if you don't some time down the road it will leave a wear marke and the brakes will stick or wont ajust and you will one day not stop or have one that stops or just plain Locks up if you olready have these groves sand it down take a wire feed fill it in and grind it smooth and your back in business this truck of mine did over 100 rear brake jobs in 5 years cus of that Problem i converted mine to disc brakes and it works grate 16 years of nothing but hard work same rear end as most of the ones on the newer chevys

[Longhorn Man]

all depends on what he has hidden in the drums, what he needs... I have one of the best NAPA guys in the state, and it took forever to get the right parts. (granted, mine is a SRW C/30)
as far as tapping the nut off... how do you guys torque it down afterwards?

[chopttop]

I am thinking that I may have to do brake work to my C30 camper, is the disk conversion pricey? thanks

[olyeller70]

Thanks everyone. I priced the parts at Advance Auto parts Saturday and it came to about $280 drums, pads, rebuild kit, and whl cyl. Will check NAPA on Monday and also locate that mysterious socket. Thanks Hartrod, as for the parts I have an extra rear chunk tucked away in a safe place for a rainy day. Does anyone have a part number for that mystery socket.

[webbes]

Take you nuts in with you if you get them off but do use a socket to put them back on. PLEASE

[Longhorn Man]

buy all the parts, then match them up after pulling the drum off, odds are, you'll be taking some parts back due to not being right.

[olyeller70]

Any part numbers for that mystery socket. Also are there any surprise gaskets or parts I will need?

[steveon3]

advancedauto carries the socket you need.tell them you need a 6 prong socket to remove the wheel bearing nut on a 3/4 ton chevy rearend. I used the same socket on a 74 3/4 ton 14 bolt rearend and on a 67 3/4 ton eaton rearend

[olyeller70]

to Longhorn Man or Steven 03:
Do either of you have the correct part numbers for some of the stuff I need.
to All:
I will post pics and text when I do this project

[steveon3]

my67 rearend might be different from yours. mine has 2" by12 " brakes on it.I know napa has the wheel cylinders and the shoes for mine and lmc has the drums for about 130. Are your drums finned or smooth like mine?

[olyeller70]

Drums are 2x12 smooth. Think I had price of $120 from Advance, worried about the right parts inside. Would like this project to take2 days not 2 weeks.

[hootlube]

Okay, here goes...
I got the socket from Oreillys for $38. I've read on another thread that putting it back together, you should torque to 30-40 ft/lbs, then back it off to align the tabs on the washer to the keyway in the axle housing.
The mistake I made on my H052 Eaton was, I didn't have the socket, and when I replaced the bearings and races (I figured, what the heck, I have it apart, right?) not torquing the bearings back in doesn't seat the race against the retaining clip, the outer bearings will scrub the hub (read: destroy bearings). I've been cleaning parts and waiting on the machine shop to get my housing back to me. Look me up if you have any questions as it goes back together hootlube@yahoo.com