What is a good looking parts getter?

[Novanutcase]

Hi!

I'm new to the truck world and was wondering if anyone could give me some insight into the mid to late 60's trucks! I have my eye on a '68 C-10 that I want to use as a DD and parts getter but I also want it to look good going down the road. It doesn't have to handle like a race car as I am already building a '66 Nova to do that! I just want it for a cruiser and a DD! Plans are to lower it, paint it and put some nice wheels and tires. I'll either go with a built 350 or an LS1 with an auto trans. Aside from the rust issues in the rocker panels and bottoms of doors are there any weak spots or areas to look out for that I should look for that are common with these trucks? If I lower it what is the best way to lower it and still get good to decent handling or can it be done and get excellent handling? Are airbags a good choice? I want to keep the cost down as much as I can since the "66 Nova is taking a ton of cash to build it since I'm doing a full tube frame for it with cage, LS7, Z06 drivetrain and full Z06 suspension. At some point I may go this route with the '68:

That's my Nova in the background up on the Jig!






But for now I'll just leave it relativley stock! Any input would be greatly appreciated!

BTW the truck in the pictures is my friend Rodger Lee's Truck! He is building the '66 Nova Project I have going on! You might be intersted in some of the other projects he has going on in his shop! http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.com

Thanks Again!

John

[bad_turbo]

Great looking projects in that garage!!

[Novanutcase]

Originally Posted by bad_turbo

Great looking projects in that garage!!

Thanks! The name of the shop is Ironworks Speed and Kustom! They are, in my opinion, one of the top 5 shops in the country! The best part is I got them when they are still relatively unknown but after my build and the '57 truck in the pictures it won't be that way for long! Thanks Again!

John

[GREASEMONKEY72]

nice nova project and that truck is pretty *****in, but with these trucks theres alot of lowering kits out there and you can easily go bags and have a pretty good ride with it, just search the forums and youll find some build threads with pictures that you can check out and get ideas from, and there will be plenty more guys chimeing with more answers and links


WELCOME to the board

[Novanutcase]

Thanks G-Monkey!

I guess the search button would've been a good place to start although I think my question is of more of a general nature in terms of the truck I am looking at. The Suspension/Air Ride stuff was more of an afterthought but thanks for the info!

Hey! I just noticed that you're in Bakersfield! The shop doing my work is also in Bakersfield! They're right by the airport off of Porterville Hwy! Maybe you know them?

John

[special-K]

I`d stay away from air bags to stay cheap and for hauling capacity.Watch for rust that begins in the roof gutter.It can rust anything between there and the ground:cowl area,windshield,kick panels,and floor.

[Novanutcase]

Originally Posted by special-K

I`d stay away from air bags to stay cheap and for hauling capacity.Watch for rust that begins in the roof gutter.It can rust anything between there and the ground:cowl area,windshield,kick panels,and floor.

If I don;t do air is there any particular set up that works well?

John

[Shane]

Air bags have no detrimental effects when it comes to hauling capacity. Select your bags according to the given application and you will be fine. Look under the rear of most semi trucks and you will see air bags. They are as dependable as any other suspension component when installed & maintained correctly.

As far as rust issues, watch for the cab corners, kick panels and the sheetmetal right above the windshield on the interior of the cab (where the visors mount).

Good Luck and *****in' looking project bro!

[PanelDeland]

You can also lower with spindles and springs.
Now as far as the parts getter,any of the Snap-On calender models will do.

[Novanutcase]

Originally Posted by Shane

Air bags have no detrimental effects when it comes to hauling capacity. Select your bags according to the given application and you will be fine. Look under the rear of most semi trucks and you will see air bags. They are as dependable as any other suspension component when installed & maintained correctly.

As far as rust issues, watch for the cab corners, kick panels and the sheetmetal right above the windshield on the interior of the cab (where the visors mount).

Good Luck and *****in' looking project bro!

Thanks!!!

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

You can also lower with spindles and springs.
Now as far as the parts getter,any of the Snap-On calender models will do.

Most of the drop spindles I've used increases bumpsteer! I'd like to try and drop the truck without worsening the handling of the truck!

Snap-On Models!!!! MMMMMMMMMMMM!!!

John

[Novanutcase]

Are air ride kits for trucks expensive?

John

[GREASEMONKEY72]

id only send the models if you need parts for your make up kit, or just bring them along so you have something nice to look at

[GREASEMONKEY72]

Originally Posted by Novanutcase

Thanks G-Monkey!

I guess the search button would've been a good place to start although I think my question is of more of a general nature in terms of the truck I am looking at. The Suspension/Air Ride stuff was more of an afterthought but thanks for the info!

Hey! I just noticed that you're in Bakersfield! The shop doing my work is also in Bakersfield! They're right by the airport off of Porterville Hwy! Maybe you know them?

John

whats the name of the shop?

[special-K]

About the rust in the gutter,I want to elaborate...You won`t necessarily see rust up there.The body sealer can crack from age and the sun.This let`s water through and over time things get rusted from the inside where you can`t see it from the water`s path to the ground.
I discouraged air bags,mostly,to keep you cheaper.Air bags were first introduced to increase load capacity.But,what you`ll find available for drop-jobs aren`t focused on hauling capacity.
I`ve never seen drop spindles effect bumpsteer.They don`t change any geometry.They just relocate the spindle on the knuckle.Too much spring drop would cause problems.A proper 4/6 static drop will run you about $800.This would include adjustable panhard bar,shock relocators,KYB shocks,all four coils,and drop knuckles from Early Classics Enterprises.You can do it for a fraction of that but cutting corners(or coils ).

[SCOTI]

My idea of the perfect parts chaser...... but I might be biased .

Drop spindles, cut coils & a 73-80 disc brake conversion up front. Added a larger 3/4-1-ton sway bar for better stability.

Out back are bags, relocated shocks (modified the original shock brackets..... how's that for cheap?), lowering blocks, & 'bolt-in' c-sections that are now welded too. The bags initial cost was about $100 more than static dropped springs but offer much more flexability to use the truck as a truck. I kept it cheap by purchasing 2 bags, 2-inlets fittings, several feet of DOT airline & 2 schrader valves that I mounted underneath my ECE hidden-hitch/flip-up plate ($300 investment).

In this pic, I was towing another swb chassis/cab & the truck still had it's original 6cyl/3spd combo. It's now getting some upgrades & will be better..... but still budget minded.

[Rokcrln]

If you want a clean parts/DD truck you do not need to spend alot of money. If you can weld and have some time you can build a nice truck for not much money at all. I started with a LWB 70 and cut it down to a SWB, rebuilt every suspention part up front, dropped it with coils and spindles. Out back I did a flip kit (leaf spring truck) to lower it. So far I am into this build for just over 3k and hope to have it all finished for about 5K and have it magazine worthy
Here is the link http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223158

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[SCOTI]

Mine was hit in 02 (totalled according to the ins. co.) & I had to settle w/the insurance. I had to tally up all the parts/costs involved in the build & had approx $5500 in the truck.

I settled w/the ins. company @ $4250 & got the truck back to rebuild. I originally purchased the truck in 00 for $2200 so my initial expense was more..... but the bang for the buck was good.

Kevin is all over the right methods to follow & has many great ideas on 'cost cutting'. I look forward to the finished product.