Z-ing pics needed

[pkj]

i would like to see some side profile pics of a frame that has a max amount of Z done, front and rear. or referance to a thread that shows this. thanks, pkj

[BACKYARD88]

Max amount of Z is questionable. There's a thread somewhere on a truck that was Zd 6 inches but it seems like he had alot of problems because of it. I'll see if I can find it for ya.

[BACKYARD88]

Look here, pics start at post #10. Hope it's what you're looking for.

[pkj]

that helps some. not sure why there is an issue going 6 inch or max Z? i am only intreasted in lowering the cab section about 6 inchs. then maybe 2 inch drop springs in front. the rear i have differant ideas on. no bags or fancy lowering componets on this one. i am thinking the top of the frame (cab section) will be level with bottom of front and rear frame section. sounds to easy, what am i missing? thanks, pkj

[BACKYARD88]

Well, 6 inches is going to cause interference between the dist. and firewall. Not to mention it's going to take quite a bit of tunneling of the cab floor to make room for the trans. and driveshaft. There are a lot easier ways to do a static drop than a frame Z. You could get 5 inches easy with a c/member section, drop springs and drop spindles.

[pkj]

you are correct about a lot of other ways to do this. i am going the Z route for a few reasons. this whole truck is coming togather from left over parts, which most were going to the scrap pile. so the challange has been buy next to nothing and see what i come up with. i have never done a Z before, and want to do it. i have nothing to loose on this one. i have never looked at pics of how its done, untill recently. that is why i would like to see some profile pics of a frame that has been Z ed. i have some differant ideas on how to make the cuts and add bracing. i do not think my ideas are original, so sure would like to see some of the approachs people have taken. thanks, pkj

[Bagd72Chevy]

If you insist on cheap Z it 2.75, crossmember drop 1.25, and cut the front coils. Thats 6-7 up front. Then buy some rear springs and extend your factory track bar fromt he frame to the opposing truck arm. This is assuming you have a 67-72 with truck arm rear suspension. Leafs are even easier. Flip kit and drop shackles.

I would not z over 3. You run into many clearance problems. Distributor-firewall, engine-steering, valve cover-brake booster, shifter linkage, radiator hoses, and various others.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by pkj

that helps some. not sure why there is an issue going 6 inch or max Z?

It's antithetical to do such a large Z. You immediately run into LOTS of issues that will cost you a lot of time and money to "solve" that you won't if you go with a more reasonable cut. The only value of a 6" Z is to "brag" about having a 6" Z....

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Bagd72Chevy

...extend your factory track bar fromt he frame to the opposing truck arm.

Don't even need to do that for a static drop. With static drop, there's not a whole lot of travel, so the longer bar doesn't really add value like it does on a highly-adjustable suspension like you'd have with air.

[pkj]

okay, i hear ya on this. makes sense. any good pics? of frames that are Z ed and crossmember drop. thanks

[leftcoast66]

just somethin to think about, w/ a z, ur gonna run into having to spend some money on the steering linkage because it'll be hitting the upper control arm.

[camaro__thunder]

You must be a site supporter to sell parts, and then they are supposed to be in the classified area.

[pkj]

still need some pictures. does anyone have some or a link? thanks

[XXL]

Originally Posted by pkj

still need some pictures. does anyone have some or a link? thanks

click this and read the post

[04 orange]

The link they gave you to the pics is my truck when I was redoing my z. When I first did my z I went with 6" that's the frame rails stacked on each other. I was trying to get all the way down without having to buy spindles, but it did and didn't work out. I ran into some problems with it. It made the hei hit the firewall and you couldn't put the cap on, it also did not make the wheels camber in and when i put the fenders on the tires hit the inside bad. So my advice is don't go over 3" with the z. So I re did my to a 3" z and I am only a .5" from laying frame, and the hei fits now and the wheels pull in nice. Here some pics of my 3" z and one of the 6" z. TRUST ME IT'S A LOT EASER TO DO IT ONCE.

[pkj]

i understand about the cap hitting firewall. i was planning on moving engine forward as far as possible, also will be using small cap not HEI. i dont understand about the align issue. you could not pull wheels in far enough to clear outer fenders? Z does not effect align does it? when i asked for more pics, i was referreing to what is being done behind the cab. is the frame being Z there as well? thanks, pkj

[SCOTI]

With a 6" Z, he didn't need to air it out to get the frame rails planted. Since it wasn't aired out, the camber was basically close to a factory setting so the tops of the tires hit the edge of the inner front fenders.

Definitely plan on trans tunnel work & possibly a little trimming on the back of the cab.

The rear frame mods will most likely depend on the type of suspension (4-link prob won't require as much attention as a stock 2-link to make things work).