12-01-2002, 01:33 AM | #1 |
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Heater core R&R rants
I always thought it would be a piece of cake, 5 min job, to replace the heater core in a non-a/c equipped truck. Wellll . . . today I went to replace mine on the beater & found out it won't come out w/o removing the inner wheelwell (which had no fewer than 4 rusted/stuck bolts). I finally get the well loose (after several not so new words) only to find that it still wouldn't come out w/o getting the hood hinge out of the way first! It took a few minutes of 'beer' engineering/research to keep the hood in place w/o a hinge (I was working alone). Once it was apart there was enough crap in there to stuff a pillow (mice? it was a farm truck) & the squirrel cage is disintegrating. Called every local parts house to get another blower wheel & you guessed it . . . none to be found. Oh well, I guess it worked good enough so I went ahead & put it all back together. Total time, 4+ hrs. I hate when even simple stuff is hard. What do you guys use to re-seal the foam gasket around the blower motor? OK, I'm through ranting. Thanks.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
12-01-2002, 01:39 AM | #2 | |
Bloo
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Barren County Kentucky
Posts: 6,283
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you want another wheel? send me your address and if i can find it ill send you one for cost of shipping, i should have one around here
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ASE Master Certified-GM Trained-Mechanic 1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker 1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB 1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed 1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205 1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10 1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater 1989 Chevy K2500 Quote:
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12-01-2002, 01:54 AM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Delta,Pa
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u dont have to pull out the wheel well to do that. those nuts are hard to get to but no need to pull the wheel well.the easier thing to do is to just pull the hood off of the hinges then remove the hinge especially when working alone
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Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member. |
12-01-2002, 01:55 AM | #4 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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I just use black permitex to seal it back on.
Also on re-instalation, don't put the lower corner bolt on. Then if/when you remove it again, it'll be a fairly quick job. |
12-01-2002, 02:19 AM | #5 |
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I was thinking of drilling an oversize access hole in the wheelwell for the bolts on the bottom. I considered using permatex or silicone but figured it would rip the foam seal next time it's removed sooo . . . after a few extra sips . . . I used hi-temp bearing grease. I figured its sticky enough to seal out water/moisture & I'll be able to easily pull it back apart if needed. Since I marked the location of the hinge/fender before moving anything it was the easiest part of the whole job.
Blue_71 thanks for the offer.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
12-01-2002, 11:17 AM | #6 |
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Location: Woodstock, IL
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When I did the heater core on my 67, i just took a BFH and made a dent in the inner fender well, to get to that one bolt. Well, at least to get me extension and swivile down there. Got it done in a hour. Had to. . . . .it was my lunch brake. . . .
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12-01-2002, 12:02 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: monrovia,ca
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so whats the best idea for cleaning out all the leaves and dirt inside my firewall? also i bought a factory a/c set up origanal cond
so of coarse it needs work but think im going to pass on the swap to much work compared to the "performance"of these units in a blazer besides this is ca and i want to put a soft top on it [know any good ones with out snaps]. |
12-01-2002, 05:52 PM | #8 |
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Location: Woodstock, IL
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I don't have A/C but when I did my blower motor, I used a shop vac to get most of the leaves out of my heater box.
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12-01-2002, 07:45 PM | #9 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Be happy you figured out that you only had to remove the inner fender and hood.
The first one I ever did involved removing the hood and FENDER too. |
12-01-2002, 09:25 PM | #10 |
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Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA
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I had a 68 once that a person beat the inner fender in about 5 inches to get to the heater box. Gotta love those big hammers.
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'69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks |
12-01-2002, 11:52 PM | #11 |
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Location: Hacienda Heights, California USA
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Has anyone changed the heater core in an a/c truck with a small block? The trucks with out a/c seem to have tons of room compared to the a/c models.
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'72 GMC custom camper 350/350 |
12-01-2002, 11:53 PM | #12 | |
Bloo
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Barren County Kentucky
Posts: 6,283
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ive never done one in a 67-72 except for my 4x4, which doesnt have fender wells anyway, but dang i never though it would be that much of a job... the only one ive done was in a 78, which only took so long because time to find wrenches
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ASE Master Certified-GM Trained-Mechanic 1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker 1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB 1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed 1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205 1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10 1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater 1989 Chevy K2500 Quote:
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12-02-2002, 12:04 AM | #13 |
THE QUICKER FIXERUPER
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ok
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I feel your pain, my truck fights me the whole way.
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12-02-2002, 10:49 AM | #14 |
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Thanks folks, I feel vindicated. I finished it all up on Sunday afternoon w/o incident. Well, only 1 little thing went wrong. The small clip that retains the heater control rod got lost when I decided to use the air comp to blow out any crap I couldn't reach w/my hands. I set it on the lip of the cowl that runs along the engine compartment & I guess there was enough air pressure that it blew it away. Dohhhhh! I grabbed a tiny rubber grommet that fit the shaft pretty snug so hopefully it will last a while. It's nice having a heater again & it works much better now that you can get some airflow through there. Now, on to the RestoRod . . . no wait, I really need to finish swapping out the distributor on the 74 w/the MSD so I can drive it!!!!!!!!
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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