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Old 12-01-2002, 01:33 AM   #1
SCOTI
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Heater core R&R rants

I always thought it would be a piece of cake, 5 min job, to replace the heater core in a non-a/c equipped truck. Wellll . . . today I went to replace mine on the beater & found out it won't come out w/o removing the inner wheelwell (which had no fewer than 4 rusted/stuck bolts). I finally get the well loose (after several not so new words) only to find that it still wouldn't come out w/o getting the hood hinge out of the way first! It took a few minutes of 'beer' engineering/research to keep the hood in place w/o a hinge (I was working alone). Once it was apart there was enough crap in there to stuff a pillow (mice? it was a farm truck) & the squirrel cage is disintegrating. Called every local parts house to get another blower wheel & you guessed it . . . none to be found. Oh well, I guess it worked good enough so I went ahead & put it all back together. Total time, 4+ hrs. I hate when even simple stuff is hard. What do you guys use to re-seal the foam gasket around the blower motor? OK, I'm through ranting. Thanks.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
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Old 12-01-2002, 01:39 AM   #2
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you want another wheel? send me your address and if i can find it ill send you one for cost of shipping, i should have one around here
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Originally Posted by Alan Jackson, Cause I'm a country boy
35s whinin on the asphalt, grabbin mud, throwin up some red dirt
R.I.P. Michael Stilts... I will always love and miss you brother! (9-12-80, murdered 4-9-05)
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Old 12-01-2002, 01:54 AM   #3
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u dont have to pull out the wheel well to do that. those nuts are hard to get to but no need to pull the wheel well.the easier thing to do is to just pull the hood off of the hinges then remove the hinge especially when working alone
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Old 12-01-2002, 01:55 AM   #4
Longhorn Man
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I just use black permitex to seal it back on.
Also on re-instalation, don't put the lower corner bolt on. Then if/when you remove it again, it'll be a fairly quick job.
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Old 12-01-2002, 02:19 AM   #5
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I was thinking of drilling an oversize access hole in the wheelwell for the bolts on the bottom. I considered using permatex or silicone but figured it would rip the foam seal next time it's removed sooo . . . after a few extra sips . . . I used hi-temp bearing grease. I figured its sticky enough to seal out water/moisture & I'll be able to easily pull it back apart if needed. Since I marked the location of the hinge/fender before moving anything it was the easiest part of the whole job.

Blue_71 thanks for the offer.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 12-01-2002, 11:17 AM   #6
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When I did the heater core on my 67, i just took a BFH and made a dent in the inner fender well, to get to that one bolt. Well, at least to get me extension and swivile down there. Got it done in a hour. Had to. . . . .it was my lunch brake. . . .
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Old 12-01-2002, 12:02 PM   #7
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so whats the best idea for cleaning out all the leaves and dirt inside my firewall? also i bought a factory a/c set up origanal cond
so of coarse it needs work but think im going to pass on the swap
to much work compared to the "performance"of these units
in a blazer besides this is ca and i want to put a soft top on it
[know any good ones with out snaps].
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Old 12-01-2002, 05:52 PM   #8
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I don't have A/C but when I did my blower motor, I used a shop vac to get most of the leaves out of my heater box.
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Old 12-01-2002, 07:45 PM   #9
Longhorn Man
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Be happy you figured out that you only had to remove the inner fender and hood.
The first one I ever did involved removing the hood and FENDER too.
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Old 12-01-2002, 09:25 PM   #10
Low69CST
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I had a 68 once that a person beat the inner fender in about 5 inches to get to the heater box. Gotta love those big hammers.
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Old 12-01-2002, 11:52 PM   #11
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Has anyone changed the heater core in an a/c truck with a small block? The trucks with out a/c seem to have tons of room compared to the a/c models.
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Old 12-01-2002, 11:53 PM   #12
Blue_71
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ive never done one in a 67-72 except for my 4x4, which doesnt have fender wells anyway, but dang i never though it would be that much of a job... the only one ive done was in a 78, which only took so long because time to find wrenches
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1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker
1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB
1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed
1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205
1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10
1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater
1989 Chevy K2500

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Jackson, Cause I'm a country boy
35s whinin on the asphalt, grabbin mud, throwin up some red dirt
R.I.P. Michael Stilts... I will always love and miss you brother! (9-12-80, murdered 4-9-05)
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Old 12-02-2002, 12:04 AM   #13
GMC JUNKIE TOO
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I feel your pain, my truck fights me the whole way.
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Old 12-02-2002, 10:49 AM   #14
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Thanks folks, I feel vindicated. I finished it all up on Sunday afternoon w/o incident. Well, only 1 little thing went wrong. The small clip that retains the heater control rod got lost when I decided to use the air comp to blow out any crap I couldn't reach w/my hands. I set it on the lip of the cowl that runs along the engine compartment & I guess there was enough air pressure that it blew it away. Dohhhhh! I grabbed a tiny rubber grommet that fit the shaft pretty snug so hopefully it will last a while. It's nice having a heater again & it works much better now that you can get some airflow through there. Now, on to the RestoRod . . . no wait, I really need to finish swapping out the distributor on the 74 w/the MSD so I can drive it!!!!!!!!
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64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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