Mounting Methods for Blazer Tank Swap

[SCOTI]

I picked up a Blazer tank swap kit a few weeks ago for my Beater. It came w/2 mounting straps but they don't resemble anything like the straps used in the FAQ's installation thread. These had the bends no where near where they should be based on the pics I've seen on other installs.

Anyway.... I was thinking about raising the tank so it sat between the frame rails. Do you guys think the tank would be ok if it was only supported by the flanges instead of the straps pulling the flanges up to the bottom of the frame rails?

I've made 2x2 stainless spacers that are the length of the tank flange 're-inforcement' piece (reinforcement flange = 12", spacer length = 14"). I was going to put the j-bolts through the original tank-flange & reinforcement-flange holes , then through the SS spacers, & finally through some fresh holes in the top of the frame rails. I would then tighten the j-bolts until the tank is secure from the top of the frame vs. the bottom. This will raise the tank about 2-2.25" & should make my hidden receiver the lowest part of the rear end.

Any thoughts or concerns?

[SCOTI]

TTT.... Anyone?

[67ChevyRedneck]

My blazer tank's sending unit was less than an inch away (maybe closer?) to the bottom of the bedwood. I think trying to raise the tank (especially 2+ inches) isn't going to work.

Also, hanging it by the flange probably isn't a good idea. The flange on these tanks isn't very strong and wasn't meant to support the weight of a tank loaded with fuel. Chances are it would crack after a short period of time (especically a tank made with todays cheap, thin materials.)

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

My blazer tank's sending unit was less than an inch away (maybe closer?) to the bottom of the bedwood. I think trying to raise the tank (especially 2+ inches) isn't going to work.

Also, hanging it by the flange probably isn't a good idea. The flange on these tanks isn't very strong and wasn't meant to support the weight of a tank loaded with fuel. Chances are it would crack after a short period of time (especically a tank made with todays cheap, thin materials.)

My bed floor will be raised 3" so clearance shouldn't be compromised (it should remain the same). I plan to try & shorten the straps but imagine that won't work.

I'll prob have to weld-in a lip on the outside of the frame rails for the j-bolts/straps to use.

[SCOTI]

Wooooooo Weeeeee. . . ...... Something went right for me! I've been trying to figure out a way to raise the tank & support it properly & think I have the solution.

I cut down & modified the thin (flimsy) strap that came w/the kit so that they would support the tank just like if it was mounted below the frame. Once I got an idea on the length & bends needed, I looked all around my work (dairy manufacturing plant) for some stainless that I could somehow use.

I found some 'pipe hangers' that we use on 6" plus diameter piping (they're 3/16" thick stainless x 2" wide w/a 45° & 90° bend). I dug through the stainless contractors 'recycle' bin & found 2 old hangers that had been cut off of outdated equipment. I'll cut each one in half & use each of the halves @ the 4 corners of the tank. I'll pick-up some flat 3/16" x 2" strap & get them to weld it up so I have a hanger that's the width of the tank. I'll run bolts from the bottom through the rail, up through the tank flange & the stainless spacer, then through the top rail where I'll use a nylon crush nut to keep everything from vibrating loose.

In the mock-up..... the tank is flush w/the bottom of my ECE hidden receiver so you won't even be able to see it behind the bumper.

[N2TRUX]

I see working all those late hours has it perks...