Engine in...engine out...engine in... 2 questions?

[Texas1971]

Made a bad novice mistake by not replacing all freeze plugs when putting in a "recently rebuilt" engine in my '71 lwb. Yep, they were leaking bad once coolant was added and got it running. PITA but it's all back together again.

Question: This is twice now in just a week where I have not been able to get the rotor to "point at #1" when the #1 piston is in the firing position. My actual position of the hei rotor is pointing at about#7. Now that it is back in the truck I am asking how this happens. Can anyone shed any light on this?

Also, I am getting a "binding" feeling as the engine turns like - turn, turn, turn, bind...turn, turn, turn, bind. Is this possibly related to the timing?

Y'all have been very helpful in the past month and I appreciate it!

[sodak69c10]

do you mean you are trying to get the rotor to point at cylinder 1 on compression 1

[sodak69c10]

if this is the case the rotor can be pointing any dirrection you just need to make sure that the rotor points at the tab inside the distributor that you have number one spark plug wire on, as for the binding does the engine lock up entirely or does it crank again as soon as you retry the starter?

[brak]

if you rotate the engine without the distributor installed (or sometimes for no aparent reason) the oil pump shaft (gonna call it OPS from this point on) get's out of alignment, and will cause the rotor to point to the wrong cylinder since the distributor seats into it.

ensure the engine is indeed @ TDC, then use a long flat head screwdriver to turn the OPS. If you look at the gear on the distributor, it has a tab that fits in the OPS, and will show you how you need it aligned.

Might take a couple tries, but be patient

[Texas1971]

Soda,
yes it seems to be 90 degrees off rather than the often mentioned 180. In fact I had it running last week at 270 degrees off since it is a matter of where you start your wires as #1. It also has been way off in terms of the TDC #1 and the timing mark on the balancer. Someone here said that it could have "spun" to cause the timing mark to be irrelevant at this point.

The binding is definitely patterned, but does not completely stop the engine from turning. Like three fast turns and then one really slow turn that almost seems to stop then the pattern repeats.

I know it is hard to communicate these things in writing, but thanks for all your experience and comments.

[Texas1971]

Brak,
Yep, the engine was turned w/out the dizzy. So, you say to stick the screw driver into the block to try and turn the OPS to the proper position, then stab the dizzy to point to #1?
Thx.

[brak]

Originally Posted by Texas1971

Brak,
Yep, the engine was turned w/out the dizzy. So, you say to stick the screw driver into the block to try and turn the OPS to the proper position, then stab the dizzy to point to #1?
Thx.

Exactly.

if you look down in the hole with a flashlight you will see the shaft.

as i mentioned, look on your distributor, and it will show you the general orientation needed.

I learned this lesson the hard way

[RACINJASON22]

If the engine was turned with out the dizzy installed you have to know that you are back on TDC comp. stroke for #1 to reinstall the dizzy and have it at the right point. YES then I agree that a long screw driver can be used to get the ops pointed in the right .direction

RJ22

[Texas1971]

Brak, you learned the hard way and now you are making it easier on me. I appreciate that and this is why I like this Board. Navy man, are you?
Thanks again,
Scott, USAF (Ret.)

[GREASEMONKEY72]

this board is great aint it?

but just do like they said and it should be good to go, as far as the starting, it just sounds kina normal to me but ive been wrong before

[RustyParts]

The timing is probably too advanced making the starting noise you described, but you'll get that straightened out once you get the dizzy where you want it.