anbody have a transmission r/r how to

[cochino12]

I've never pulled and reinstalled a tranny before nd I wold like to give it a shot. Anybody have a write up or maybe just some step by step how to's for replacing a th350? Thanks

[82c10]

set e-brake (if working),take driveshaft out, lay driveshaft aside,undo lines, and cable), undo the 3 torque convertor bolts, get on top of the engine, and undo the 2 top bellhousing bolts, get back underneath it, and get the other 4 out,slide a jack underneath tranny, and jack the tranny up, unbolt the crossmember, and put it aside,pull the tranny back slightly, and then lower, then do whatever you want to with tranny

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by 82c10

set e-brake (if working),take driveshaft out, lay driveshaft aside,undo lines, and cable), undo the 3 torque convertor bolts, get on top of the engine, and undo the 2 top bellhousing bolts, get back underneath it, and get the other 4 out,slide a jack underneath tranny, and jack the tranny up, unbolt the crossmember, and put it aside,pull the tranny back slightly, and then lower, then do whatever you want to with tranny

How long should it take? and thanks

[82c10]

Originally Posted by cochino12

How long should it take? and thanks

by myself it took me probably about 4 hours, this was on grass, and dirt, and having to look for tools, and taking a break, so probably if it was on concrete, and you had all the tools, probably about 2 hours(by yourself)

[N2TRUX]

It helps if you have a tranny jack so you don't have to worry about it flopping on the ground. As far as getting to the top bell housing bolts, I find it's best to lower the transmission tail, then use a really long extension (or two) to get them out. It's a whole lot easier than trying to get them from up top.

If your working by yourself it will take 3-4 hours to drop it. I suggest getting a friend to help stab it.

[magnethead]

I just did it. with it raining and having limited work time, we've pulled the transmission, replaced the front ump seal, put the trans back in, and we're going to have it on the ground again by today..we started work wednesday.

we were able to get all 6 bolts from the bottom using 4 feet of extensions on an air impact.

[Mickey_D]

For the bellhousing bolts, I highly recommend using Gearwrenches. Those ones that have a ratchet built into the box end?

Makes for absolute painless removal and installation of the bellhousing bolts. I just did them when putting the engine in my Silverado and I can tell you they were the easiest removal and install of them I have ever done.

[sick69]

I would suggest putting a jack or jack stand under the back of the engine when to pull the tranny away from it aswell or it could break your distributer cap.

realisticly for your first tranny swap plan on a day to be on the safe side. approximately 4 hours is a better guess but,,,,,



Frank

[bigblock79]

I would suggest putting a jack stand under the back of the engine when to pull the tranny away from it aswell or it could break your distributer cap.

[Srubydo1986]

tranny jack is a very good idea had a buddy lose a finger to a transmission falling one his hand. Almost happen to got lucky missed my hand by about an inch. (2 seperate builds)

[benoit454]

It is pretty easy. I've done mine about 3 times by myself pretty much.

I start out taking the top 2 or 4 bellhousing bolts out from up top. I can get 2-4 from my car usually 3 for sure, and barely get the fourth, on the 86 k10 I could get almost everyone from up top. A wrench is a must up there though, ratchet wrench definately faster and easier.

Disconnect the kickdown cable from the carb, and remove it from the bracket, route it out and back over to the passenger side, lay it over there for now. Remove the distributor cap, lay it up towrds the carb, or remove it and each wire. Label if you are not familiar with the wiring order.

Jack up the vehicle, I try and go as high as my jackstands allow for my room, but I'm on concrete also. As they said remove the driveshaft, at least from the rear end, you can leave it in the trans for now to keep fluid in it, OR drop the trans. pan and drain the fluid.

I then remove the mentioned torque convertor bolts.

Take the shifter arm/cable off the lever on the side of the trans. In some cases the exhaust might need to be removed or at least taken loose from the headers, y-pipe, or cat or whatever else might be in the way.

You can remove the dipstick from the trans now or leave it in, might make it hard to get out later. Then I usually put a jack under the trans pan, remove the mount bolts on the frame and transmission, then loosen the crossmember, and slide it back or pull it out. I then find it easier to let the whole trans and engine down together, tilting it downwards in back, that gives you easy access to the cooler lines. Remove thoose, and if you want remove the kickdown cable from the trans. I usually leave mine on. Then I'll take a long extension and sometimes a swivel or wobble and get the rest of the bellhousing bolts. Then wiggle it back and let it on down, or jack it back up level and do it.

I found many ways to put it back in also,

either throw it on you and try to ma handle and wrestle it in there, or find an easy way like I do.

I made a couple transmission jack adapters for my regular floor jack out of a wide board, a couple short pieces for sides to sandwich the pan, and a couple pieces of old dog chain to secure it. I then center drilled a hole, by measuring to find the center, and ran a bolt down through the board into the part of the jack where the cup usually sits.

I've also took a couple ratchet straps, hooked them to the frame on both sides, threw the trans in on top of them, and cranked the straps to raise the trans in place, or at least enough to put the jack under it.

Or just throw it up on the jack once you get them both under there.

[magnethead]

good writeup benoit. On my truck we have to go 3 feet back with the trans because the bellhousing hit on my headers and the pipes just happene to move outward in the back. Also, note the lack of a kickdown on a TH400 if applicable. And if you break the mount off the dipstick, get your silicone out (as i found yesterday on my truck) because there's a pinhole that will leak fluid like no other when filling. We took the dizzy cap off on my truck so the trans wouldn't hit it...the engine didn't fall back anyways and the trans leaned forward on the jack so wouldn't have mattered.

think that covers everything.