does this look right?

[tranz am]

I just finished the swap to a 350 sb w an M21. I dont remember if the 305/3 speed setup was leaning back as much as this. Does this look normal?
The drive shaft is actually tilted upward slightly to the carrier. I used the mount from the truck I got the cross member out of, It was a th350 equipt truck. Are the mounts for an auto 350 the same as the M21 4 speed? Any help with this is much appreciated thanks.

[truckdude239]

i wouldn't think the motor would sit at that kind of angle

[tranz am]

can anyone provide me with a side pic of the underhood of another truck?

[Rokcrln]

What you can check is with th emotor at the right angle your intake sould be level. So with the carb off put a level on the intake and see what you have.
What this does is provides that your carb is level and your floates are level as well but tilts the motor back 4 or 5* for the air to work its way out of the block. Hope this helps.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[tranz am]

Well I cant really check it right now because the truck is parked on an incline and the front end is droped 3 inches. I cant move it yet.

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

What you can check is with th emotor at the right angle your intake sould be level. So with the carb off put a level on the intake and see what you have.
What this does is provides that your carb is level and your floates are level as well but tilts the motor back 4 or 5* for the air to work its way out of the block. Hope this helps.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[OlChev67]

heres some I just took of my 305, 3spd.

[tranz am]

Looks like they are very much at the same tilt.

[OlChev67]

yeah, mine has some tilt, it might just look funny with the carb off.

[tranz am]

are you using the bell housing trany mounts?

Originally Posted by OlChev67

yeah, mine has some tilt, it might just look funny with the carb off.

[JHART]

My 350 looks the same ... it tilts a bit but is fine. Also i noticed we must have the same headers cuz my collectors also hang below the frame ... i dont care for that look much so i plan on switching out the headers here soon.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

What you can check is with th emotor at the right angle your intake sould be level. So with the carb off put a level on the intake and see what you have.
What this does is provides that your carb is level and your floates are level as well but tilts the motor back 4 or 5* for the air to work its way out of the block. Hope this helps.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

What he said In all reality, there are many variables, but think of it like this.....the factory set that engine in with about a 4 degree downhill slope to the rear (assuming the frame is parallel with the ground,the pad on the intake should be about level). Now that carb will run just fine if its a couple degrees off(you run up/down hills right?). Where you run into trouble is in driveline angles(been there , played THAT!). What I have seen , tells me to set that eng trans combo 3-4 degrees (preferably 3 downhill to the rear). When you start playin with a 2 pc shaft under a modified/lowered truck , thats another bag of worms! If you have driveline vibes, there are several sites that offer suggestions on that mess...... L

[OlChev67]

yeah, I am using the bellhousing mounts.

[heavy71chevy]

yea that looks about normal...you might want to recheck the pinion angles tho and make sure thats not gonna be a problem

[tranz am]

This truck has a slight rake to it now. and will when I drop it more. should I shim the mount?

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

What he said In all reality, there are many variables, but think of it like this.....the factory set that engine in with about a 4 degree downhill slope to the rear (assuming the frame is parallel with the ground,the pad on the intake should be about level). Now that carb will run just fine if its a couple degrees off(you run up/down hills right?). Where you run into trouble is in driveline angles(been there , played THAT!). What I have seen , tells me to set that eng trans combo 3-4 degrees (preferably 3 downhill to the rear). When you start playin with a 2 pc shaft under a modified/lowered truck , thats another bag of worms! If you have driveline vibes, there are several sites that offer suggestions on that mess...... L

[Classic Heartbeat]

I see the problem. You are using an automatic crossmember to bolt the m21 down. (probably because of the aluminum bell housing you are using) You should be using the cast iron bell housing with the bell housing mounts. I would change bell housings and bolt it up like it was originaly. Or else you will either have to modify the auto crossmember to lift the tranny up or somehow shim it. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

[tranz am]

Hmm. I was told that the auto crossmember would work perfectly. I cant use the original bell housing because the the diameter of the front cover is too small to align it right. All the other guys seem to have the same tilt thou....... Now Im confused.

[Classic Heartbeat]

The only time that I have seen a tilt like that is when someone has mounted a small block v-8 onto the 6 cylinder motor brackets. I wouldn't leave it like that if it were me. I would jack the back of the transmission up untill the motor was level and measure the distance from the bottom of the tranny mount to the auto crossmember. Then either make a bolt on bracket to bolt the mount to or weld one on. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

[tranz am]

I see. so all the guys that have an agressive tilt like this are running the 6 cyl motor brackets. Makes since now. Why not just run the V8 brackets. I think that I may have isues with the header collectors hitting the bell housing cross member.

[kwmech]

I think wes called it with the 6 cyl mounts judging on how stuffed the engine looks into the firewall. And the fan shroud. If you tip the engine up the way it is now it looks like the collector on the headers will contact the original bellhousing x-member. You may end up cutting that out.

[tranz am]

Now that I think about it, I think that lifting the transmission up may be the best solution. Im going to lower it another 2.5 inches and it makes since to keep the drive train up higher in the frame to provide more clearance for the headers.

[trkklr77]

some of the auto trannys even come witha spacer between the mount rubber and the tranny. its about a 1/2" thick. nothing more than a piece of flat steel. throw that in there and call it good.

[tranz am]

It would appear that I would need more than a 1/2 ince spacer in there?

Originally Posted by trkklr77

some of the auto trannys even come witha spacer between the mount rubber and the tranny. its about a 1/2" thick. nothing more than a piece of flat steel. throw that in there and call it good.

[trkklr77]

will then stack it up till it hits the floor pan.

[tranz am]

Hmm....Im wondering if there is a piece of square tubing that Might be sufficiant. any ideas?

[dubs68SWB]

I did not read all the posts, but I disagree with most. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you are not using that front crossmember, you just didn't want to cut it out. An auto crossmember WILL AND DOES work perfect for a 4 speed trans mount. You can play with your output shaft height with different trans mounts that bolt to the x-member. You also want some angle to your driveline which is why you have joints. I just went from 250 inline 6 and granny 4 speed to a 460 BBC and a Muncie M-22. I cut out the forward trans mount. CANT USE 6 CYL mounts, Must use BBC. CAN USE AUTO crossmember. My motor has quite a bit of tilt, and the driveline angles up. result......A tire-frying scary ride with ZERO vibration and everthing works perfectl