sorry 2wd guys, i'm gettin a 'case and a front diff!

[1FaastC10]

i'm selling off a bunch of my C10 parts, and chopping up the cab. i found a '79 K20 that i think will make a better project for me. i've been thinking of building a 4x4 for quite some time, and i came across this one, and the deal is just a little too sweet. if anybody needs any parts, let me know, i may be able to help you out.

[mike reeh]

you wont regret it! that looks like a cool truck. can you give us some more specs? I almost bought a flatbed like that once, but the owner wouldnt sell.. I like it

mike

[1FaastC10]

Originally posted by mike reeh
can you give us some more specs?

original 350
trans unknown yet, either 350 or 400
not sure how to identify the 'case (havent been under it that far yet anyways)
14FF 4.10 gears
D44 4.10 gears
custom built flatbed
custom bodywork by Mother Nature-floorboards, cab corners, and front fenders are all shot

i'm paying $800 for it, and im going to sell the plow off of it, as we dont need it here. when all is said and done, i should have about $250 or so in it. i'm planning on at least a 6" lift and 35s, but that will likely come after i fix the cab. i am starting to like that flatbed myself, though i didnt at first. maybe i'll put a headache rack on it, a steel floor, and a nice diamond plate tool box.

[mike reeh]

how do you know its a dana 44? most of the 79 3/4tons Ive seen have the 10 bolt (not a big deal just saying..)

also the easiest way to tell which t-case it has it by looking at the handle.. if all you can see of it is solid round, its a np205, and if part of the handle is flat looking then its np203.. does it have hub lockouts?

just some food for thought

mike

[hrc200x]

Hard to tell in the pic, but it looks like it has the chrome caps where hubs should go, so it probably has a 203 full time t-case. I believe a 205 t-case shift pattern is this:

4l
N
2h
4h

A 203 will have lo and lo loc, N, hi and hi loc.

Another easy way to tell the t-case is by looking at the back of it underneith the truck. A 205 will have a small round thing with 3 bolts holding it on. Thats inbetween where the rear output comes out of the case and the aluminum cover to the lower right. A 203 will have a plug there you remove to fill it with fluid.

If the diff cover is pretty much round its a 10 bolt.

[Prerunner1982]

jeremy? are you swapping suspensions? or body? might be easier to just swap body unless frame is bent...

[1FaastC10]

i've been told that the 10 bolts came in 81+ trucks. i know this truck is completely stock, my uncle bought it from the original owner. so i just assumed it was a D44.

Jon, im going to run the ragged body through this winter, and when everything thaws out, its coming apart. im going to fix the cab off of the '82, and use the front sheetmetal for now, its pretty beat up, but still very solid. when i do the lift kit (planning on 6") i'll clean and paint the frame as well. thinking about a 3" body lift too, even though i said i was against them, i've been told it will make using my 2wd cab easier. oh, and the running boards are as good as OFF!!!

hrc200x, do you have any pics of your truck? sounds like you've got exactly the setup i want. i'd love to see it.

[Big Paul]

Jeremy, that is a nice truck, especially for only $800. Even if the cab is shot.

That flatbed will grow on ya. My friend had a '62 Ford 1 ton, 4x4, 4spd, flatbed. I helped get it running, and we used it as a pulling truck at fairgrounds. It was an ugly beast at first, but that flatbed grew on us.

[hrc200x]

This pic is before it was 3/4 ton, cooper tires, and AR rims. Spend the extra money on lift, I got the cheapest lift I could find and it rides terrible, granted a 6 inch lift shouldn't ride too nice, but my friend had a 4 inch suspension lift and it almost rode nicer than factory springs. We're thinking its a BDS lift, but we arn't sure. http://www.bds-suspension.com/

With a 6 inch lift be prepared to lengthen the brake lines, add spacers inbetween the frame and sway bar, longer front diff breather hose, raised steering arm. I have a raised arm, but it also needs one of them drag links with a bent in it. My front drive shaft binds. With a 4 inch lift you can get away with pretty much everything besides the raised steering arm, although the brake lines are fairly tight.

With a body lift you will need to weld in a 3 inch piece of steel into your shifting linkage and I believe thats it.

[mike reeh]

Originally posted by hrc200x
This pic is before it was 3/4 ton, cooper tires, and AR rims. Spend the extra money on lift, I got the cheapest lift I could find and it rides terrible, granted a 6 inch lift shouldn't ride too nice, but my friend had a 4 inch suspension lift and it almost rode nicer than factory springs. We're thinking its a BDS lift, but we arn't sure. http://www.bds-suspension.com/

With a 6 inch lift be prepared to lengthen the brake lines, add spacers inbetween the frame and sway bar, longer front diff breather hose, raised steering arm. I have a raised arm, but it also needs one of them drag links with a bent in it. My front drive shaft binds. With a 4 inch lift you can get away with pretty much everything besides the raised steering arm, although the brake lines are fairly tight.

With a body lift you will need to weld in a 3 inch piece of steel into your shifting linkage and I believe thats it.

nice truck! How do those tires do in different types of terrain, and how much were they? get some recent pics of the 3/4 conversion.

its funny how the two tone paint of the door and bed are reversed. I like the truck a lot

mike

[hrc200x]

Thanks for the comment. I bought them hardly used for $800 and had to buy the cheap white spokes. They are awsome in mud, probably the best, never did drive them in winter, but the fact they are pretty much accross ways lugs on the tires I'd think they'd be bad for turning sharp in snow and slush.

Right now the truck is being stored for winter and I took the good rims and tires off it so they don't pit and dry rot. Maybe come spring time I'll get some pics.

Also keep in mind when ordering a lift that if you get rear blocks the tallest part on the block might not measure what your lift is. For example mine is a 6 inch suspension lift with rear blocks, the longest spot on the block measured like 5 and 3/4 inches, therefor the truck might sag. My rear springs were very worn out so I put 3/4 ton springs in and that helped a little.

[1FaastC10]

WOW! even with whitespokes on it it looks tough. gotta love that frankenstein paintjob too. very good looking truck, i can just imagine what she'll look like when she's all done *drool* what size rims are those, and the tires?

[hrc200x]

Rims are 10 inches wide, tires were 35x16(wide)x15 inch rim. This is the truck in my signature. The tires are gone, I traded them for the ones in my sig... 35 inch coopers on Baja rims, looks way better and I put a visor on it. In the distant future I hope to get it painted midnight blue or black, or two tone blue/black or black/yellow, also need some roll bars with lights, maybe take the body off and paint the frame and suspension, cowl hood, disk rear brakes, interior needs much work, like to find factory push bumpers, tow hooks, and the black cowl under the front bumper and have about 8-15 yellow lights mounted in that, possibly put running boards on it so I can mount more yellow lights there, and since it has a body lift there is a big gap inbetween the top of the rear bumper and tail gate, it would be nice to find a piece of diamond plate and mount that there with maybe 8 red lights in it. Also would like to find a 80s chrome step bumper, replace window gaskets and make it water tight.

My other truck I plan on making will be a late 70s 4x4 frame, full floating 14 bolt with d44, 350 motor, 350 tranny, 205 t-case, take my body off my montana 2wd truck and put it on that (needs cab corners) This will probably be left stock height because its crazy trying to load anything into my other truck.

I also have a '80 4 door 1 ton 4x4 I'd like to find a rust free cab for.