Best way to remove engine mounts WITH engine in truck... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**COBALT** · 12-02-2002, 08:35 PM

What do you think? Unbolt the mounts from the towers and lift the engine an inch or two? If so where should I lift it? Oil pan? Balancer? I think the transmission is too close to the pivot point. Just brainstorming. It might not even be worth it until I drop in a new engine...

Blackhawkdc · 12-02-2002, 08:58 PM

you should be able to use a wood block and raise it by the harmonic balancer.

Vince M · 12-02-2002, 09:00 PM

I did it on mine but it's a 4x4 but the same procedure would apply. I used a engine hoist and lifted the motor. I think this is better than jacking the motor from underneath. It keeps the floor area clean so that you don't have to work around the jack. I think that jacking it up might bend something so I didn't do it that way. Don't jack under the oil pan as it could collapse it enough to block the oil pump pickup. I didn't feel too comfortable putting a jack under the harmonic balancer either.
Be carefull of your distributor against the firewall. On 4x4's it's real close. I would also loosen the transmission mounting bolts so you don't stress the mount. That's all I can think of.....

cableguy0 · 12-02-2002, 09:16 PM

well honestly if u have a cherry picker its probably faster and easier to yank the motor out to put on the new mounts. its kinda tight around those towers and hard to get to which means the bolts might not be put back in as tight as the should be. besides the engine could probably use a good cleaning anyway

*racedvl* · 12-02-2002, 09:43 PM

I would use a short peice of 2x6 and lift by the oil pan. But that's me.

70burbulgy · 12-02-2002, 10:04 PM

Changed 3 sets in the last six months 1 set on a 4X4 which as mentioned above you have to watch the dist. on the firewall. Otherwise I got along fine with a block of wood under the oilpan. Unbolt the two bolts on the fan shroud and let it go up with the engine, you should be able to get 3 inches easily. Probably did not spend more than 1.5 hours on any of them. Just my thoughts.

Oh, helps to wash engine heavily before you start

**COBALT** · 12-03-2002, 02:56 PM

Well, maybe I should come clean now. I've already done the "block of wood under the balancer" trick when I was putting in my oil pan, but I didn't have to do it long. Just long enough to get it in. I'm a little worried about having it propped up for too long.

Oh well. I'll give it a little more thought.

Long Knight · 12-03-2002, 03:47 PM

I jacked mine up under the oil pan with a square piece of plywood to distrubute the weight. Turned out ok, but next time I would take the engine FARTHER out.

By the way, make sure you get mounts with the same size bolt holes. The stupid A## holes at the local O' R#$#@s fked up again and gave me mounts with two different sized bolt holes. Took awhile to figure it out at 1am and half a case later.

Long Knight · 12-03-2002, 03:48 PM

That would case of beer, not case of engine mounts.

71GMC_3/4T · 12-03-2002, 04:25 PM

I did mine when I was putting the new headers on.
I used a block of wood under the oil pan. I had it almost up enough when I realized the fan was really distorting the fan shroud - aaack! Pulled the top half of the shroud which allowed it to come up a little further.
The bolts up into the block were a real bear since the rubber of the mount had squished into the sides of the holes after 30 years. I was able to use a pry bar to force the socket up enough to get the bolts out though. You will only have 2" to work between the mount and the bracket. Be CAREFUL! Don't put your fingers in between the surfaces unless you don't have any use for them any more. Also, be sure you have a jack you can trust and not some tywanese cheapie.
I found it easiest to leave one mount loosely installed while I did the other mount. That way it rocks up the side you are working on farther. Also makes it easier to line up again when you let the engine down.
Only took me one six pack to get the job done... But then again, I got the right mounts from the store!
Good Luck!

gman · 12-10-2002, 04:49 PM

Sorry to bring this up again. But attempted to replace motor mounts this weekend. When lifting the motor via piece of wood/oilpan, the motor is closer to the frame on driver side after lifting. Gave me plenty of room for the pass side but couldn't get a ratchet in the space between frame and metal flange on old mount on drivers side. When lifted, the manifold just barely touches cab right next to clutch rod coming out of cab (this is with both frame-to-mount bolts removed, left and right). What is safest way to get this in? Can I put a scissor jack between motor and frame on driver side to push motor out a bit away from frame? Anything to watch out for? Sorry for being wordy. Any help/opinion appreciated.
70burbulgy....any ideas? Sounds like you've been down this road a few times.

Long Knight · 12-10-2002, 04:53 PM

Did mine the same way. Had to He-man alot of it. Best advice, have someone else there to help, first in case something happens, second to have someone to blame. Just keep plenty of cold wrenches (beers) handy!

gman · 12-10-2002, 04:57 PM

Oh, I've got plenty of the beer action there....did you use a scissor jack to move the motor away from frame?

Long Knight · 12-10-2002, 05:02 PM

Had a huge rolling floor jack (like 4 ton) and we used a piece of heavy plywood under the pan because for some reason we had to slide the jack around. Changing those mounts was easily the most frustrating thing I have had to do on my truck so far ( including engine regbuild and tranny swap) Hang in there, you lose a lot of skin off your knuckles before it's done.

I have an automatic in my truck but we didn't loosen the cross member bolts (probably should have) That would make it easier.

**COBALT** · 12-10-2002, 05:28 PM

When I lifted it to get the new oil pan in I also used a 4 ton floor jack. I used a piece of 2x4 that was long enough to slip past the front cross member and drag link to meet the balancer. Don't get me wrong though, I chewed off my fingernails during the whole process. I was scared to death something was going to go wrong. Worked long enough for me to get the new oil pan in, and I was sure relieved when I put it back down.

When I was dropping the tranny I just used a wood block under the oil pan to keep the engine from tipping back. No problem.

Oh, and one more thing. I have an auto tranny, and had just put it back in so I had a new mount, and new hardware for the cross member. I just left the mount bolts loose and everything was fine.

The big worry I have is getting enough room to work. I'm thinking about pulling the distributor just to make sure it's out of the way.

Long Knight · 12-10-2002, 05:55 PM

Probably not a bad idea for the distributor. Make sure you mark it before you take it out!

I just put my tranny in not long ago and used a ratchet strap to get it in ( and brute He-Man frustration). Should have waited for my buddy to get there with the jack.

It is best to have somone to run the jack while you try to start the threads. It is a very fine adjustment sometimes to just get those bolts started. I was lucky enough to have a shallow ratchet that fit easily into the cramped space. However, like I said before, make sure the holes on your mounts are the same. The parts guys, in their regular fashon, gave me mounts with different bolt holes on each one.

**COBALT** · 12-10-2002, 06:07 PM

Well, you're a gutsy dude for muscling a tranny without a jack.

...and I've made the mistake of not marking the distributor before. Not fun. Took me an entire day to get the timing right again, from 180 out to forgetting I had advanced the #1 plug one post over on the distributor.

Look...if you leave the transmission mount bolts in loose but not tight, and lower the engine straight up and straight down as long as the mount holes are the same size or bigger you shouldn't have any problem putting the mounts in.

12-02-2002, 08:58 PM	#2
Blackhawkdc 440 american Horses Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Anoka, MN USA Posts: 470	you should be able to use a wood block and raise it by the harmonic balancer. __________________ Seth Petro 1969 Chev Short Step 425hp 350, TH400, big tires, fast truck 1979 Pontiac Trans Am 1991 Saturn SL1 - gas mileage! (and free) 1977 Buick LeSabre - for sale May America bless God, and may God bless America

12-02-2002, 09:00 PM	#3
Vince M Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,076	I did it on mine but it's a 4x4 but the same procedure would apply. I used a engine hoist and lifted the motor. I think this is better than jacking the motor from underneath. It keeps the floor area clean so that you don't have to work around the jack. I think that jacking it up might bend something so I didn't do it that way. Don't jack under the oil pan as it could collapse it enough to block the oil pump pickup. I didn't feel too comfortable putting a jack under the harmonic balancer either. Be carefull of your distributor against the firewall. On 4x4's it's real close. I would also loosen the transmission mounting bolts so you don't stress the mount. That's all I can think of..... __________________ ............................................................ 68 Chevy CST SWB w/LS1, carb & 700r4. Golden Anniversary clone with a few improvements.

12-02-2002, 09:16 PM	#4
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	well honestly if u have a cherry picker its probably faster and easier to yank the motor out to put on the new mounts. its kinda tight around those towers and hard to get to which means the bolts might not be put back in as tight as the should be. besides the engine could probably use a good cleaning anyway __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

12-02-2002, 10:04 PM	#6
70burbulgy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: McPherson, KS 67460 Posts: 60	engine mounts Changed 3 sets in the last six months 1 set on a 4X4 which as mentioned above you have to watch the dist. on the firewall. Otherwise I got along fine with a block of wood under the oilpan. Unbolt the two bolts on the fan shroud and let it go up with the engine, you should be able to get 3 inches easily. Probably did not spend more than 1.5 hours on any of them. Just my thoughts. Oh, helps to wash engine heavily before you start

12-03-2002, 02:56 PM	#7
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Well, maybe I should come clean now. I've already done the "block of wood under the balancer" trick when I was putting in my oil pan, but I didn't have to do it long. Just long enough to get it in. I'm a little worried about having it propped up for too long. Oh well. I'll give it a little more thought. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

12-02-2002, 08:35 PM	#1
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Best way to remove engine mounts WITH engine in truck... What do you think? Unbolt the mounts from the towers and lift the engine an inch or two? If so where should I lift it? Oil pan? Balancer? I think the transmission is too close to the pivot point. Just brainstorming. It might not even be worth it until I drop in a new engine... __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

12-02-2002, 09:43 PM	#5
racedvl Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 7,020	I would use a short peice of 2x6 and lift by the oil pan. But that's me.

12-03-2002, 03:47 PM	#8
Long Knight Spank 'em if you got 'em! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kansas City Posts: 628	I jacked mine up under the oil pan with a square piece of plywood to distrubute the weight. Turned out ok, but next time I would take the engine FARTHER out. By the way, make sure you get mounts with the same size bolt holes. The stupid A## holes at the local O' R#$#@s fked up again and gave me mounts with two different sized bolt holes. Took awhile to figure it out at 1am and half a case later. __________________ Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick

12-03-2002, 03:48 PM	#9
Long Knight Spank 'em if you got 'em! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kansas City Posts: 628	That would case of beer, not case of engine mounts. __________________ Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick

12-03-2002, 04:25 PM	#10
71GMC_3/4T Weapons Of Construction Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Colorado, USA Posts: 1,095	I did mine when I was putting the new headers on. I used a block of wood under the oil pan. I had it almost up enough when I realized the fan was really distorting the fan shroud - aaack! Pulled the top half of the shroud which allowed it to come up a little further. The bolts up into the block were a real bear since the rubber of the mount had squished into the sides of the holes after 30 years. I was able to use a pry bar to force the socket up enough to get the bolts out though. You will only have 2" to work between the mount and the bracket. Be CAREFUL! Don't put your fingers in between the surfaces unless you don't have any use for them any more. Also, be sure you have a jack you can trust and not some tywanese cheapie. I found it easiest to leave one mount loosely installed while I did the other mount. That way it rocks up the side you are working on farther. Also makes it easier to line up again when you let the engine down. Only took me one six pack to get the job done... But then again, I got the right mounts from the store! Good Luck! __________________ 1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO

12-10-2002, 04:49 PM	#11
gman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Ogden, Utah Posts: 290	Sorry to bring this up again. But attempted to replace motor mounts this weekend. When lifting the motor via piece of wood/oilpan, the motor is closer to the frame on driver side after lifting. Gave me plenty of room for the pass side but couldn't get a ratchet in the space between frame and metal flange on old mount on drivers side. When lifted, the manifold just barely touches cab right next to clutch rod coming out of cab (this is with both frame-to-mount bolts removed, left and right). What is safest way to get this in? Can I put a scissor jack between motor and frame on driver side to push motor out a bit away from frame? Anything to watch out for? Sorry for being wordy. Any help/opinion appreciated. 70burbulgy....any ideas? Sounds like you've been down this road a few times. __________________ 72 Chevy SWB Custom Deluxe K10, 350/SM465, PS, PB, Fact. Air 2000 Harley...Wide Glide

12-10-2002, 04:53 PM	#12
Long Knight Spank 'em if you got 'em! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kansas City Posts: 628	Did mine the same way. Had to He-man alot of it. Best advice, have someone else there to help, first in case something happens, second to have someone to blame. Just keep plenty of cold wrenches (beers) handy! __________________ Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick

12-10-2002, 04:57 PM	#13
gman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Ogden, Utah Posts: 290	Oh, I've got plenty of the beer action there....did you use a scissor jack to move the motor away from frame? __________________ 72 Chevy SWB Custom Deluxe K10, 350/SM465, PS, PB, Fact. Air 2000 Harley...Wide Glide

12-10-2002, 05:02 PM	#14
Long Knight Spank 'em if you got 'em! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kansas City Posts: 628	Had a huge rolling floor jack (like 4 ton) and we used a piece of heavy plywood under the pan because for some reason we had to slide the jack around. Changing those mounts was easily the most frustrating thing I have had to do on my truck so far ( including engine regbuild and tranny swap) Hang in there, you lose a lot of skin off your knuckles before it's done. I have an automatic in my truck but we didn't loosen the cross member bolts (probably should have) That would make it easier. __________________ Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick

12-10-2002, 05:28 PM	#15
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	When I lifted it to get the new oil pan in I also used a 4 ton floor jack. I used a piece of 2x4 that was long enough to slip past the front cross member and drag link to meet the balancer. Don't get me wrong though, I chewed off my fingernails during the whole process. I was scared to death something was going to go wrong. Worked long enough for me to get the new oil pan in, and I was sure relieved when I put it back down. When I was dropping the tranny I just used a wood block under the oil pan to keep the engine from tipping back. No problem. Oh, and one more thing. I have an auto tranny, and had just put it back in so I had a new mount, and new hardware for the cross member. I just left the mount bolts loose and everything was fine. The big worry I have is getting enough room to work. I'm thinking about pulling the distributor just to make sure it's out of the way. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.



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12-10-2002, 05:55 PM	#16
Long Knight Spank 'em if you got 'em! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kansas City Posts: 628	Probably not a bad idea for the distributor. Make sure you mark it before you take it out! I just put my tranny in not long ago and used a ratchet strap to get it in ( and brute He-Man frustration). Should have waited for my buddy to get there with the jack. It is best to have somone to run the jack while you try to start the threads. It is a very fine adjustment sometimes to just get those bolts started. I was lucky enough to have a shallow ratchet that fit easily into the cramped space. However, like I said before, make sure the holes on your mounts are the same. The parts guys, in their regular fashon, gave me mounts with different bolt holes on each one. __________________ Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick

12-10-2002, 06:07 PM	#17
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Well, you're a gutsy dude for muscling a tranny without a jack. ...and I've made the mistake of not marking the distributor before. Not fun. Took me an entire day to get the timing right again, from 180 out to forgetting I had advanced the #1 plug one post over on the distributor. Look...if you leave the transmission mount bolts in loose but not tight, and lower the engine straight up and straight down as long as the mount holes are the same size or bigger you shouldn't have any problem putting the mounts in. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

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