Front Disc Brakes sticking a little - why and how do I fix it?

[jhow66]

There is a differance in disc-drum and drum-drum masters. The drum-drum one have a check valve in the master cly. where the lines screw in to hold about two lbs.of pressure so the brakes shoes will not retract all the way. If you have this kind of master it will not let the disc cly retract enough.

[Orange]

This is exactly what I used.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1955-...38487254QQrdZ1

(You have to do some rod modifying to do it, but it is clean and moves the booster in a ways).

DLB

[6869704X4]

Originally Posted by Orange

(You have to do some rod modifying to do it,

This caught my attention. If the rod is too tight it might not be releasing all the way.
How old are the hoses? They could both be bad.

[Orange]

Originally Posted by 6869704X4

This caught my attention. If the rod is too tight it might not be releasing all the way.
How old are the hoses? They could both be bad.

That was my first thought too.
Here's the way I set the rod up - I bolted up the booster - fed it thru the firewall, and then connected that to the brake pedal in a strait line without any tension on it. My adjustment can only go in (toward booster), not out (away), because it is already all the way out. So, it is literally as far away as possible. I made the pieces to connect it - instead of using the pieces that were there. I went the hard way around to make sure it was right.

The hoses have been on the truck since I have had it (10+ years) so they could be stock for all I know.

DLB

[6869704X4]

We're thinking along the same lines. Something that would affect both front calipers.
Brainstorming here but is there anything that could prevent the rod/linkage from coming all the way back? Hitting the firewall or bracket?
Isn't there a rod between the booster and MC? Is it adjustable?
Maybe your new booster/MC combo had enough new power to kill both front hoses at the same time?
Wouldnt hurt to get some new ones, maybe some shiny steel braided ones, since you dont know how old they are.
jhow66 is right. If your hoses are collapsed you can crack the bleeders while they are still stuck. If they release that is a sign pressure is being held there.
Again, I'm just thinking out loud so if I'm repeating stuff just put me on ignore, I'm used to it.

[Orange]

LOL - Not hurting my feelings a bit.
I am open to anything.

I actually spent the evening cleaning the garage. I will do the same tomorrow, and probably Sat. morn. So maybe by Sat. evening I'll get around to getting something accomplished.

The rod isn't sticking - I actually did pull on the pedal to make sure when I first encountered the problem. And the rod between the Booster/MC had no pre-load on it, so I don't know how I could back it down really. To take it forward would be simple, but I can't come back with it so easily since I am all the way back with the setup already.

I will start simple with what you guys have tossed at me, and if anyone else has any ideas, throw them at me. I will post back. I am procrastinating because of that long drive to work I have (about 3 miles).

DLB

[cmacky]

Orange, Check to see if there is a kink in the metal lines going to front brakes.

cmacky

[69TowRig]

Originally Posted by jhow66

There is a differance in disc-drum and drum-drum masters. The drum-drum one have a check valve in the master cly. where the lines screw in to hold about two lbs.of pressure so the brakes shoes will not retract all the way. If you have this kind of master it will not let the disc cly retract enough.

That was my first thought too, that he had a drum/drum with the residual pressure valves.