Ghetto Lift

[semperfidoordie]

Could I get a 3" body lift and then add 3" blocks to it to make it a 6" lift to accomodate my 36s?

[Yukon Jack]

No. Your vehicle would be very unsafe with blocks on the front axle. Don't do it!!!

[Yukon Jack]

Or are you talking about stacking two sets of body lift blocks to make a 6" body lift? That also would be a very bad idea and very unsafe.

[BACKYARD88]

My Dad had an 80 short wide 4x4 he bought new. Within the first year he installed a 454 and built his own 4" blocks and U-bolts all the way around. It was set up like that until he sold it around 1997. At one time my uncles brother even wrecked it and knocked the left front spindle and wheel off but didn't move the axle. This is the only vehicle I've ever seen with blocks in the front and it held up pretty well to the abuse thrown at it although there are plenty of catastrophic failures that could result from this type of lift. I'm not in any way, shape, or form condoning this method of lift, I just figured I'd let you in on what little experience I have with it.

[1969k10stepside]

Definitely dont use front blocks.As for body lifts its a personal choice.I dont like them and dont use them on my trucks but its your truck,do what you want.As for double stacking body lifts if that's what you mean...think how far down the radiator fan would be as compared to the radiator,and all the hoses would have to be lengthened too...plus the truck would look terrible,IMO with the frame that much lower than the body.You can clear 36s with a 4" lift and maybe some trimming if you dont wheel it.I'd just get a 6" lift,they arent that much more...

[semperfidoordie]

that's true...didn't realize it was that catastrophic of an event..haha my bad for even asking...

[LONGHAIR]

Just to repeat..........no, don't do it. Blocks on the front are unsafe. They increase the leverage applied to the springs during braking. This is even worse with old worn springs.

[JAKES 68GMC]

I'll be an echo, don't do it.

[va_tlc]

lol just say. no to front blocks.. it will rot yer teef

[semperfidoordie]

so anyway i found a 6" lift kit by Superlift for 800 bucks...is that decent pricing?

[Zoomad75]

Save your penny's for a real lift. Others have hit all the negatives. Remember this, if you have to stack anything to gain lift, it's probably not safe. That goes for lift blocks and body lift pucks.

$800 is a little on the high side for a 6" lift, is that with 4 springs or 2 springs and 2 blocks? You might be better off going with a 4" lift and a 2" body lift to get your 6". The 4" lift will be cheaper to get into and require little to no driveline mods and only a raised steering arm for correction. I personally hate body lifts myself, but in this case it might be a cheaper alternative to a full 6" suspension lift.

Being the cheapskate I am, I'd go 4" and gain the rest of the clearance for 36's with carefull trimming. A 67-72 can accept a pretty large tire in the stock wheel opening anyway. It may not need much to clear. Look around here you see lots of trucks running 4" lift on 35's with no trimming. Keep in mind that most actual tire diameters are roughly less than the advertised size and you might have enough room for those 36's. My 35's measured 34 1/2".

If you got a mint body, don't cut it get the 6" lift. If your body is less than mint and you are really going to wheel it, go 4" and trim the fenders if you need to.

[1969k10stepside]

This started as a $600 4" lift (all spring lift) but it came with a add a leaf in the rear too giving it a 6" rear/4" front lift...Now I am thinking of adding a leaf in the front too,the motor is making the front sit lower...No motor in when pics were taken...Its sagged a inch or 2 with the motor in.Tires are 35s.

[special-K]

Dustin,why not take the add-a-leaf out of the rear?You`re plenty high without it.
Here`s a 4" lift with 14.50/37s on 10" wheels...hacked it.I wouldn`t do that today.Well...maybe to one like that I would.

[vtblazer]

Tim, you and all those work trucks.

[1969k10stepside]

Tim,with the motor in the front tires are getting closer and closer to the front fenders and I really dont feel like cutting the fender cups off since the truck is going to be painted (plus the orignal fenders just have some dents,no rust)I want to keep the body looking original on this one and beat the hell out of the other.Also,those springs were still fairly new when the pics were taken so the whole truck has settled in a bit and the front worries me..So,I could add a leaf in the front to get it sitting like it was before the motor was in,and it should level things out.I dont think there is enough room with just the 4" lift all around with them tires..

[semperfidoordie]

so...you think with a 4" suspension lift..2" body lift i'd be good...or with a 4" body lift and just do some cutting? now is it the inside wheel wells you cut or the fenders themselves? I mean my truck is definitely beyond the amount of money i have to spend in rust repair so it's for fun...nothing fancy...nothing pretty...so cutting it isn't going to break my heart

[semperfidoordie]

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/...on/146124.html good price? 4" lift for $394...made by tuff country

[msgross]

get the EZ ride lift kit... I've heard it's one of the softest for the height...

You would just have to wait until everything is mounted to trim. More than likely it would be the fend tip just in front and behind the tire... It really all depends on lift, rims, tires, backspacing since every brand will give you a slighty different outcome. Looks into ORD's shackle flip for the rear. You keep your stock springs and bolt on the new shackle mount.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by mudda

ORD's shackle flip bad idea

and why is that?

[bowtier]

Really like mine.....it's flexy

Quote:
Originally Posted by mudda
ORD's shackle flip bad idea


and why is that?

Ya know looking back at all 4 other posts, I've come to the conclusion.:trolls:

And as far as the flip holding up under load, I've hauled 1 1/4 ton of sand in mine & pulled a pretty good sized tractor, with 3pt. tiller, and 4 wheeler all on a 16' car hauler & had no issues. I love the flip.

[1969K10]

Originally Posted by msgross

and why is that?

My opinion, you're taking shackles that were made to be in tension, and putting them in compression. However, ORD recently has come out with a seriously beefed up shackle that is supposed to hand the compression loads.

I've still always wondered about a shackle flip on a work oriented truck and if it would handle the abuses...

[special-K]

Dustin,I gotcha.I thought you were just lifting to even it up.Another leaf on you lift spring pack will only yield the thickness of the leaf,about 3/8".
Here`s my cheap-cheap lift I did before I even bought a lift kit(Burbank Spring)because they hardly even made them,yet.You need an anvil,sledge hammer,heavy gloves,strong grip,and a main leaf with the eyes cut off.
Front:
*Remove front leaf packs
*Strike the center of the main leaf until you have desired arch
*Make other main match
*Pound the others to the same arch
*Assemble & install
Rear:
*Cut up old leafs,drill,and weld stacked to make blocks dersired height
*Buy(1st time you saw that word,right?)longer u-bolt for rear
Don`t think it ain`t hard work.You`ll feel like an iron age blacksmith,but it`s cheap and gets it done.

Hey Kurt,I work,therefore I am....
I got tired of wheeling and running my work truck all over the place,so I got that green Blazer and built it up for fun.I miss it I miss it I- miss-it!

[earl87gta]

If your not going to worry about looks just put the 3 body lift on it and cut the fenders untill the tires fit. Look on my web page my burb as 36s on it in the pics with 6in lift and some cutting no body lift. so with a body lift and a little more cutting you should be ok. you could also runn zero rates on all 4 corners all though some say there no diffrent then blocks but I ran them on all 4 corners of my K5 for years with no trouble. with a body lift the would give you 4 in for less then 200.