Frame Cab Mounts - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Palf70Step** · 12-14-2002, 05:13 PM

This maybe a strange question but here goes anyways. I'm wondering if it is possible to put new frame/cab mounts on with out removing the cab?

They look 32 years old, and since I replaceing the front end and bed mounts I thought it would be good to do these too. My thoughts are to loosen all four bolts, then use my two floor jacks to lift the cab enough to slip out the old and slide in the new. It seems to me it would work on paper, but not sure if I am undertaking a mess.

Since I moved the shift to the floor, I don't have to worry about linkages. I figure I am going to have to disconnect the steering column so it'll lift, and I'm guessing the clutch linkage.

Is there anything else that might not let it rise up an inch or so so I can change out the mounts?

When I do this I plan to have everything out of the interrior, seat/tank etc. Doors will still be in place though.

Am I insane (OK, besides the normal insanity) for trying to do it this way?

Thanks for the help folks.

**1970 CST Short Wide** · 12-14-2002, 05:37 PM

Thats how I did mine with no problem except rusty bolts not wanting to come out. Dont forget to do the Rad support mounts.

Good Luck

**Palf70Step** · 12-14-2002, 06:46 PM

Got them. That is why I wanted to do cab. New bed and rad support and mounts going in. figured cab should have them too.

**JIMs70GMC** · 12-14-2002, 11:09 PM

Did mine last year, real easy. I had to cut all my bolts off. Used a jack and did one side at a time you do not have to lift much. Bought all new hardware from LMC. Have pics in the link(My 70GMC) in signature.

Huck · 12-15-2002, 01:12 PM

Once you remove the bolts, the cab only needs jacking an inch or so to allow removel and install of the new mounts. Keep in mind that there may be spacers between cab mount and rubber spacers to make the cab to frame level. I did not need to unbolt steering column, clutch linkage or anything. Even was able to leave the seat in but did have to remove the capeting (according to Mr. Obvious)! Huck

**Palf70Step** · 12-15-2002, 02:54 PM

Thanks for the info folks. It seems I am jnot as crazy as I though, or we are all in the same nut house.

Huck..My seat will be out because I am going to redo the inside..rust coating paint and all for the final (??) assembly. That's why I was asking now. Figure most everything would be out of the way, what better time to do it.

tim m · 12-16-2002, 11:19 AM

When I did mine the bolts in the in the front floor pan were welded in. I had to take a dremel and cut it out.

12-14-2002, 05:13 PM	#1
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 47,468	Frame Cab Mounts This maybe a strange question but here goes anyways. I'm wondering if it is possible to put new frame/cab mounts on with out removing the cab? They look 32 years old, and since I replaceing the front end and bed mounts I thought it would be good to do these too. My thoughts are to loosen all four bolts, then use my two floor jacks to lift the cab enough to slip out the old and slide in the new. It seems to me it would work on paper, but not sure if I am undertaking a mess. Since I moved the shift to the floor, I don't have to worry about linkages. I figure I am going to have to disconnect the steering column so it'll lift, and I'm guessing the clutch linkage. Is there anything else that might not let it rise up an inch or so so I can change out the mounts? When I do this I plan to have everything out of the interrior, seat/tank etc. Doors will still be in place though. Am I insane (OK, besides the normal insanity) for trying to do it this way? Thanks for the help folks. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

12-14-2002, 05:37 PM	#2
1970 CST Short Wide Senior Moment Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Pittsburg Ca Posts: 4,215	Thats how I did mine with no problem except rusty bolts not wanting to come out. Dont forget to do the Rad support mounts. Good Luck __________________ 1970 CST LS 1 6 speed Ford 9 inch Detroit Tru Track, Dakota Didgital, Vintage Air, QA1 Coil Overs Front & Rear Lots of FUN 2013 GMC PU, Oldest Son 71 GMC LWB. QA1 Suspension, Angry SB. Youngest Son 2017 Toyota SUV Daughters car 2018 Traverse , Wife’s Ride Pittsburg Ca 94565 Last edited by 1970 CST Short Wide; 12-14-2002 at 05:40 PM.

12-14-2002, 06:46 PM	#3
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 47,468	Got them. That is why I wanted to do cab. New bed and rad support and mounts going in. figured cab should have them too. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

12-14-2002, 11:09 PM	#4
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Did mine last year, real easy. I had to cut all my bolts off. Used a jack and did one side at a time you do not have to lift much. Bought all new hardware from LMC. Have pics in the link(My 70GMC) in signature. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

12-15-2002, 02:54 PM	#6
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 47,468	Thanks for the info folks. It seems I am jnot as crazy as I though, or we are all in the same nut house. Huck..My seat will be out because I am going to redo the inside..rust coating paint and all for the final (??) assembly. That's why I was asking now. Figure most everything would be out of the way, what better time to do it. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

12-15-2002, 01:12 PM	#5
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,261	Once you remove the bolts, the cab only needs jacking an inch or so to allow removel and install of the new mounts. Keep in mind that there may be spacers between cab mount and rubber spacers to make the cab to frame level. I did not need to unbolt steering column, clutch linkage or anything. Even was able to leave the seat in but did have to remove the capeting (according to Mr. Obvious)! Huck

12-16-2002, 11:19 AM	#7
tim m Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Gilbert Az Posts: 286	When I did mine the bolts in the in the front floor pan were welded in. I had to take a dremel and cut it out. __________________ 1970 k10 1971 C10 Gilbert Az



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