What do you think about this little beast?

[dan42]

How would I know? Serial numbers? The SPID states that it was originally equipped with a 327, and that's what the guy states, but I don't know how to verify it.

[57sailplane]

you need the numbers off the block. they are a stamped number found on the front of the block pasenger side, just below the seem of the cylinder head. i am sure you can get them crossed referance on here. any ways. i would say 4900 is to high. if it is rust free or close i would say get it for 3500 or less cause its got the right paint colors and pretty good trim all the way around. thats if it is an 327 truck. if its an orgninal 283 i would pay less.

[dan42]

thanks.

[lukecp]

There is a machined pad sticking out on the block past where the passenger side head bolts to it. There should be some numbers and letters stamped on there (probably covered in grease). Find the letters, they will be something like "VE" or "TDJ" and run them against this database: http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php

This is a little easier then getting the casting number off the rear of the block and it should tell you what you have. If it says it is a 327 on the SPID then it probably is, but it is a good idea to check on a 40 y/o vehicle because who knows what may have been switched around since 1967.

[dan42]

Originally Posted by 57sailplane

you need the numbers off the block. they are a stamped number found on the front of the block pasenger side, just below the seem of the cylinder head. i am sure you can get them crossed referance on here. any ways. i would say 4900 is to high. if it is rust free or close i would say get it for 3500 or less cause its got the right paint colors and pretty good trim all the way around. thats if it is an 327 truck. if its an orgninal 283 i would pay less.

Thanks - I remember seeing numbers in that exact spot, but I didn't write them down. He's stuck on $4000 for now, which is more than I'm willing to pay. We'll see, he may change his mind down the road. I'll leave the door open.

[68GMC454]

looks like a decent truck..but i wouldnt go over 3000..im to cheap...you could buy another one out of state and save money even after travelign to get it...the valve cover will sell for some decent moeny,,so you will get some back..and if you decided to change out to a BB,,you could get a good chunk of money for the 327 if that is what it is...sincet hye are gettign hard to find..

[BurnoutNova]

Originally Posted by ChevLoRay

I noticed the valve covers, too. If the holes are staggered, the heads are early, too. If not, the covers are '58 and up.

cant be.. the heads wouldnt have accesory holes for the alternator

[57sailplane]

im not positive but the way that alternator looks i don't think it is mounted into the head. looks like its mounted on the manifold were the generator would go on an old manifold. i one had a 57 chevy and thats kinda how i remeber it clear out on the end of the bracket in front.

[57sailplane]

man after i look at both pictures i would almost bet thats mounted on the exhaust manifold. those might well be old fulie heads.. don't no if there worth anything but you can always hope

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by dan42

Here's a little better picture of the valve cover - they don't look staggered to me, but I don't know much about them.

*********************************

Ok, the top holes would be closer together then the bottom holes. (See picture.) If this was a Corvette 63 to 67 327 with higher hp engine it would have aluminium valve covers not tin. Holes would be straight across from each other .... top and bottom would be the same distance a part. Pass valve cover does it have a hairline flaw running verticaly straight across by the "o" in the Corvette script on the valve cover? Can't tell by the picture if this flaw exists or not.

As far as carb is concerned this could have been changed for various reasons by POs.

If you get the #s off the block PM me and I will decipher them for you and tell you if this is a Corvette block.

esll.

[mnunn454]

Originally Posted by sick69

Seems to be fairly clean but 4900 is high imo. I would say 2500-3000 tops, but california is a different market.

but it's just my 1st impression.

Think of it in terms of it's value to you. Are you looking to end up with a show truck, or just something to haul hay between barns, or have you just always had a fondness for these particular trucks and you're in the mood for a "project" to tinker with?

Try building a tentative parts and costs list of things you're certain you'll be doing to it in the next year or so. If it's reasonable and well within your budget when including the purchase price and shipping if required, then go for it. Worst you can loose is a few grand and you're likely to get that much fun out of it just working on it.

One final thought, I think the 67 short fleets are the prettiest of all the 67-72s, mainly because of the hood angle. The small rear window makes it more desirable. This one already has a V8 drivetrain that would just love to get upgraded to a 383/4-speed.

For what it's worth.....

[dan42]

Originally Posted by EAST SIDE LOW LIFE

*********************************

Ok, the top holes would be closer together then the bottom holes. (See picture.) If this was a Corvette 63 to 67 327 with higher hp engine it would have aluminium valve covers not tin. Holes would be straight across from each other .... top and bottom would be the same distance a part. Pass valve cover does it have a hairline flaw running verticaly straight across by the "o" in the Corvette script on the valve cover? Can't tell by the picture if this flaw exists or not.

As far as carb is concerned this could have been changed for various reasons by POs.

If you get the #s off the block PM me and I will decipher them for you and tell you if this is a Corvette block.

esll.

Right now we're at a standstill on the price, and the vehicle is an hour and a half away, but he was gonna get me the numbers off the motor, so when I get those I'll post 'em.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Love those trucks and the color scheme..

[longhorn70gmc]

I went and looked up your ride on Nada. Just at low retail it is worth a bit more then what the guy is asking. It all depends on what you see and how you feel about it. $4000 to 4500 is a good price for a running SWB truck in Cali. Hope you get it.

Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".

Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.

Note: This value does not represent a "parts car".
Sunday, July 22, 2007
Original MSRP: $2,221 Low Retail Average Retail Value High Retail
Base Price
$7,725 $14,550 $28,000
Options
V8 Engine $125 $200 $275
TOTAL PRICE $7,850 $14,750 $28,275

[Raguemoe]

I paid $3200 for this one (but it had some rust). I sold it cuz I needed a daily driver and not another project. I still regret getting rid of it though.

[dan42]

Kinda looks like a lost puppy, doesn't it?