Can you sand blast valve covers and air cleaners without them warping?

[Primered_69]

I know they are a little thicker material than sheetmetal but did not know?

Thanks in advance,
Michael

[cdowns]

yes theres no problem but the valve covers need to have all oily residue gone and you need to wash them very good after blasting to remove all traces of your blasting media

[BAGGERSOCAL]

Sure use glass beads then wash all parts after.

[PanelDeland]

Glass beads or a plastic media would be a better choice for blasting media.The use of sand tends to build heat.Probably on such small pieces you could use it without getting it that hot.A lower air pressure would also help.

[Longhorn Man]

We bast this kind of stuff all day long at work, and that's with a huge industrial cabinet and 140PSI.

[WinDancer]

Just don't stop the gun or hold it too close- you will do fine.

[RACINJASON22]

Sand blasters don't warp things people that run them do.

I read that on here once and could not agree more.

As stated above go at it carfully and you will be fine.

RJ22...

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

I assume that the valve covers are not aluminium. Sand is not a very clean media and will blow dirt into them and they come out grey looking if they are aluminium. If they are tin no problem. Use glass on aluminium. Myself I use glass on everything that I blast in my cabinet.

esll.

[jkaylor68gmc]

Yes you can, I just got a set of original M/T valve covers blasted and powdercoated. Worked just fine!

[Sport/Truck]

I used plastic media, & powder coated them black. A friend did the final touches.
valve covers
s/t
Like cdowns said make sure they are clean. I banged the heck out of mine with a wood handle and stuff fell out for days (mostly on my oil pan), but do this until it stops.
s/t

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by jkaylor68gmc

Yes you can, I just got a set of original M/T valve covers blasted and powdercoated. Worked just fine!

**********************************************************

Yes I agree if you are going to powder coat them, I have a set of M/T valve covers on my 70' that are painted. But what if you want the aluminium exposed (see picture.) This fuel injection and valve covers needed to be restored to a natural finish. With glass beads it first of all looks like a new after market intake (toooo much of a good thing.) With sand it would look grey and dirty and not able to be restored in this condition. Through a process of acid etching the bright look is toned down and one ends up with a more natural raw just out of the casting look which is what one wants with type of application.

es..

[zacut]

I work in an aluminum foundry (we make castings). If you want a natural look you need to use a steel shot blast. We, and nearly all foundries, run all of our castings through a wheelabrator to remove sand and create a uniform surface. It is a large machine that throws very fine steel shot. It takes about 2 minutes to completely clean a couple of parts like valve covers to like new condition, steel or aluminum. Talk to your contacts, see if you can find a manufacturer with a wheelabrator in your area and take your parts there. It is so quick for individual items like auto parts that they will probably be glad to help you out.

[68GMC454]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

I used plastic media, & powder coated them black. A friend did the final touches.
valve covers
s/t
Like cdowns said make sure they are clean. I banged the heck out of mine with a wood handle and stuff fell out for days (mostly on my oil pan), but do this until it stops.
s/t

man those are some good looking valve covers...

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by zacut

I work in an aluminum foundry (we make castings). If you want a natural look you need to use a steel shot blast. We, and nearly all foundries, run all of our castings through a wheelabrator to remove sand and create a uniform surface. It is a large machine that throws very fine steel shot. It takes about 2 minutes to completely clean a couple of parts like valve covers to like new condition, steel or aluminum. Talk to your contacts, see if you can find a manufacturer with a wheelabrator in your area and take your parts there. It is so quick for individual items like auto parts that they will probably be glad to help you out.

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Where I live there is a foundry as well as 2 more 60 miles south of where I live. What was explained to me by all three is that they do not take responsibility for rare auto parts or one of a kind antique peices. So in the the case of the fuel injection (see picture in previous post above) which has a value of $10.000 U$ they refuse to even look at it. As a result I've given up on foundaries as a source for this kind of work. My work meets with NCRS standards for judging.

esll.

[zacut]

Your work is beautiful. I certainly didn't mean to imply otherwise.

I have wheelabrated well over 100 parts and have not damaged any of them, can't imagine how I could. It is the original casting finish.

On the other hand, no one is going to take responsibility for handling $10,000 motors, at least not without charging an arm and a leg. I was simply explaining a simple way to get the original finish, but as with many things in life you will likely have to assume the liability yourself. Try it with a scrap part if there are concerns.

Many places will do this for you, some for free as it is not worth charging you for 10 minutes of work, and many would also let you watch if you like. Just one option, but others have great ways of getting to the same result. I always like to see how people restore parts.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by zacut

Your work is beautiful. I certainly didn't mean to imply otherwise.

I have wheelabrated well over 100 parts and have not damaged any of them, can't imagine how I could. It is the original casting finish.

On the other hand, no one is going to take responsibility for handling $10,000 motors, at least not without charging an arm and a leg. I was simply explaining a simple way to get the original finish, but as with many things in life you will likely have to assume the liability yourself. Try it with a scrap part if there are concerns.

Many places will do this for you, some for free as it is not worth charging you for 10 minutes of work, and many would also let you watch if you like. Just one option, but others have great ways of getting to the same result. I always like to see how people restore parts.

**********************************************************

I hear what you are saying and I also did not take exception to what you suggested in your posts. Just throwing out a caution flag. One of the problems with restoration are things like attached serial # tags etc like the one you see (rectangular tin tag painted black held on by rivets) this is the serial #, model # and manufactures name Rockchester New York in this case and was attached afterwards as one of the last things to complete the manufacturing process .... they all have to survive the restoration process. Removing the tag and replacing it is not an option. Fuel Injection in this case is a sophisticated (todays value $10.000.00, in 1960 $485.00 dollar) carburetor for the time in 1960 and there are no second chances to get it right when restoring one.

I'm like you always interested in new techniques and wanting to know how did you do that? Keeps the hobby interesting if nothing else.

esll.