Blazer Tank Install on the CHEAP... $50

[Frizzle Fry]

After mentioning this tank on the Low-Buck thread I've had a few PMs about it, so I figured I'd post the info here.

I did this a couple years ago and have since sold the truck to board member JRB. So I'll post all the pics I have of it, for any more pics (such as the sender mod) we'll have to go through JRB.

You can get 73-87 style Blazer tanks "new" (old but not used), from HERE for $25 plus about $25(+/-) shipping. Search for Blazer and it will come up. They do list as "Diesel," but that does not matter for our application. Since they are unused they will hold gasoline just as well as they would diesel (no flush required).

To save even more money I welded in the sender flange from the truck tank, and bent the truck's sending unit float arm to work in the blazer tank.

The Blazer sending unit has a bigger flange/seal and these tanks don't come with a sending unit. I was on a really tight budget at the time and didn't want to buy the correct sending unit at ~$120 or so new. So I figured out how to use the sending unit out of the truck tank. Part of that involved cutting the smaller flange from the truck tank and welding it into the blazer tank.

Then the dip tube and float arm had to be bent appropriately to work in the detentions of the new tank. It actually ended up working flawlessly.
...or you could just buy the sender that goes to that tank.

I also welded on the filler neck from the truck so I could just use the original cap and fill through the bed floor. Because the tank is square you should be able to mount it turned 90* if you want to use a side filler.

***Safety Note: I filled the tank with water before welding. Even though it's "new" there's just something scary about welding on a fuel tank.. maybe it's just me
Also, I believe the tanks are galvanized, but if you sufficiently clean the areas to be welded with a blaster or wire-wheel you can make a good weld. Just be sure to do it outside and avoid the fumes more than you normally would when welding. I've heard galvanic poisoning sucks big time

The "crooked" crossmember behind the rear-end had to be trimmed a bit as seen in the pics.

The hanger straps I used were found in the plumbing section of Home Depot. I think they are meant for securing hot water heaters. These were not the type with perforations. They are galvanized with doubled-over edges. I also used a plastic/rubber insulator made from that floor/wall/edge kick-guard stuff you see in classrooms and offices (another Home Depot purchase).

I held the tank in place with a floor-jack, drilled through one strap and the frame, secured it, then pulled it tight and did the same on the other side. In the end I used 4 bolts per strap.

I extended the fuel gauge wire and ran rubber fuel line from where it normally turns from the frame over to the cab floor. I bent that back towards the back more (normally a 90) so that I still had access to install the clamp, but got the fuel line back into the frame as soon as possible. I know some say you should always run 100% steel line for fuel, but I felt safe with the way I routed and secured the line.

So for $50 plus a couple penny items I was in business

Here's the pics:

[Frizzle Fry]

...and the joy of no in-cab tank

[Mudder]

I got a Blazer tank from a salvage yard with the skid plate, cross members, fill tube, and straps for 60 bucks. I ran it completely empty one weekend (ran out of gas in the parking lot of a gas station, LOL) just to see how much it would hold. It went to 33 gallons. That was from an 85 Blazer. The skid plate is great and an added protection IMO, and also helps to hold the tank in place.

[Frizzle Fry]

Any Pics of that skid plate Mudder?

[Mudder]

I have partial pics.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by ChrisK10

Nice! I assume by looking at the pics that the filler will have to come out through a hole in the bed? What can you do with that?

That's how I set mine up, but the tanks come with a tight 90* bent filler as you can see on the site. So you can run it under the bed floor over to a side filler if you want.

Originally Posted by dave2953

I was going to buy one, but I was told it wasn't in the budget. If only I could get her to understand the world of truck parts.

I hear ya man.

[brak]

Lookin at how many people have ordered these tanks, i'm glad i ordered mine immediately after FrizzleFry posted the link in the Low-Buck thread

Anyhoo, mine was delivered today, and i figured i'd post some pics...

Upon removing from the box, i saw lots-o-rust, and a couple spots looked serious


But with less than 5 minutes of attention from Mr Flap-Wheel, i realize my fears were un called for.


Now if only i could figure out what color i want to paint it

[Mudder]

here's a couple of fuel doors/fillers. the first one is mine.

[Redaddiction]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

FF, how hard do you think it will be to mount a factory fuel pump module in this (for a 5.3 vortec)?

I am mounting one in my cheap tank. I have a few pictures of what I am doing that I will be adding to my build thread.

[huero]

Is the venting any concern? Also, how much ground clearance would I have with a 4" rear drop? I have a 69 C/10 SWB and would like to be able to tow and haul . Thanks guys.

[69ChevyLB]

You can get new sending units here:http://discountgastanks.com/search2/ for $69 with free shipping. Going to order one as soon as I decide where to put the filler. Probably take the easy way and put it in my metal floor.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by huero

Is the venting any concern? Also, how much ground clearance would I have with a 4" rear drop? I have a 69 C/10 SWB and would like to be able to tow and haul . Thanks guys.

I used a vented cap.

I don't think the tank hangs down any lower than the bedsides on a fleet bed. So unless you plan to drag the bed on the ground it shouldn't be an issue Maybe a fleetside guy can confirm that.

I know that it barely hung below the fender line on that stepside, but the stepside fenders don't hang as low as the fleetsides.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by OLDIRON69

Is it possible to use the filler neck that is on the tank?

Probably if you mounted it lower. I'm not sure if you'd have to or not. Maybe one of these guys that's bought one can answer that.

TTT for ya.

[faribran]

we spaced ours down off the frame (so the bed would clear the tubing coming out the top of tank)...and still had no clearance problems on the bottom, using a 6in drop in back...after the bumper was installed the tank could not be seen.....

[OLDIRON69]

Just a FYI, I ended up putting the filler in the bed floor...or right under. It is great to now have decent size fuel tank and a working fuel gauge!!!! I cut the factory neck off and welded another off a old Dodge land yacht I had on the place. The sender I bought came from O'rielly auto parts p/n FG05F and cost a whole $55! So for just under $120.00 counting new steel fuel line and strapping that I bought from Lowes (used to tie down mobile homes so they don't blow away) and a few bolts and nuts....Waalaa!!! New tank on the cheap and it is under the bed!

[OLDIRON69]

Originally Posted by Mudder

One thing I believe is very important. Looking for possible rubbing points. Rubbing metal to metal will make a hole very fast. Make sure you have something like rubber, plastic or something between the areas that may rub.

I used ANSI roll bar padding on the bed braces where the tank touches those and nothing in between the tank and straps. If you guys think that will be an issue hollar back and I'll do something there. Just everyone I have ever seen from the factory had nothing on the straps..???

[OLDIRON69]

I have some rubber strips I can put in between the tank and straps. I just didn't think it was necessary. In my opinion there is no such thing as "overkill". I will put something under the straps.

[huero]

You can use strips of rubber cut from an old inter tube from a bicycle or big rig and rubber cement it on the straps.