1 ton Brakes

[Konk]

I have good proof to believe one of the wheel cylinders on my 1-ton is leaking. So I went to remove the rear drums tonight and noticed that the brake drums don't look like they "slide" off as in a typical vehicle.


I need to know, do I need to remove the axle piece on the end held on by the 8 or so bolts to get the drum off, or does the drum actually slide off the end..... I'm trying to get it inspected soon to take it on a annual camping trip in the next few weeks (the big flat bed should do good at hauling the firewood and supplies) and need to get this done.

[Big D]

You have to take the axle out. then there is a nut and lockwasher that need to come off. Then you can slide the drum and hub assembly off. About the same setup as a disc brake rotor on a bigger scale.

Be careful its pretty heavy!

[Longhorn Man]

And take that cylinder with you looking for a replacement... and double check what ever they give you.
i can't speak for the daul rear wheel trucks... but my single rear wheel one ton was a total bear to locate brake cylinders. Heck, they were only able to locate 3.

[Konk]

Alright, so does the whole axle shaft come out, or just that outer housing??

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Konk

Alright, so does the whole axle shaft come out, or just that outer housing??

The whole axle will come out when you take the 8 bolts on the hub off. You have to take the axle out to get the drum off. It's not a big deal to, and it will make much more sense when you tear into it. Maybe this will help.


http://www.man-a-fre.com/explodedvie...ar.htm#housing

[CCCC]

Assuming it is a ONE TON truck, after you remove the eight bolts and pull the axle shaft from the housing, and depending on the weight rating of that rear axle assembly, most likely you will find 1. a lock nut to be removed (should use the correct tool - circular wrench with teeth to fit the slots on the nut (drive this wrench with a socket drive); 2. behind that lock nut a lock ring with tabs that have been bent dowm to keep that lock nut from turning loose - need to straighten those outward to remove #1; then an inner nut that looks just like #1, but which is used to torque the axle bearing fit (use the same tool to remove it); behind that nut a thrust washer that seats on a bearing. If you do not have access to the round wrench, it is possible to remove the nuts with a punch or screwdriver to move them CC - but not recommended, especially due to assembly process.

Once all of the above is removed, the drum will slide off the spindle. Bearings will be retained inside the drum. Make sure that you check the seal on the inner side of the drum - it may be leaking gear oil (as a matter of fact, the leaking fluid you are seeing may be gear oil and not brake fluid - eye and smell test should tell you).

Once leak has been corrected, assemble in reverse sequence, but the torque (and possibly subsequent back off) of that inner nut should be to specs shown in service manual according to type/weight rating of the rear end. Outer nut torque not as critical, and make sure you lock that outer nut down with those tabs on the lock ring (get a new ring if you can).

Depending on how soaked they are, brake shoes probably need to be cleaned throroughly - and maybe replaced if the surface is scuffed/damaged.

LMK if you need further info.
CCCC