C20 Faq?

[ABN82MP]

In order to avoid asking stupid questions, could someone please direct me to a FAQ for the C20? I've tried the search and the FAQ forum but cant find answers to the questions I have.

I just acquired this truck last week and am trying to lay out my build plans to avoid making the same mistakes I made with my last built vehicle

Thanks in advance
-Jason

[Longhorn Man]

there is no FAQ on here aimed at what you are asking... none that i am aware of.
What kind of answers are you looking for? What's the questions?

[PanelDeland]

Welcome to the board!The only stupid questions are the ones you don't have an answer to because you didn't ask.We all started out without diapers and had no knowledge,what we built from that was mostly done by aking questions.

[forgeman]

Welcome! Ask away. Either we will be able to help or you will get a good laugh (in some cases both).

[ABN82MP]

Well I guess for starters then...

Are there any physical differences between the C10 and the C20? I assume the major differences are in the suspension and drivetrain? Body parts are interchangable, correct?

I see there are several kits to swap the front end to a 5x5BP using aftermarket spindles. What do people usually do about the rears? Custom axle shafts with a smaller BP? Swap out the entire axle?

Are the spring diameters the same with the 10 and 20? Would I be able to buy lowering springs for a 10 and have them seat properly?

Any idea what kind of axle I have in this thing? The P.O. said it was like a 9" only bigger. It looks to be OEM with a factory posi. Just trying to gauge the aftermarket for this.

Sorry for asking so many questions, but it seems I've gone from college level Jeeping/wheeling to kingergarten Chevy trucking. Hopefully I'll be able to learn quick

[special-K]

Let me start with a stuoid question...Is this your truck?

The coils are interchangeable and so are all the 1/2t suspension/axle parts.

['68 C-20]

My C-20 is bone stock original. Glad to help anywhere I can. Lots of folks here will.

[special-K]

I didn`t read you just bought the truck.I know this guy was thinking about selling his.He lives in Wooster and has a place in S/E OH.

[Longhorn Man]

The 9 inch type rear, is the corperate axle, with an Eaton diff in it. Very tough rear, but expensive to get parts for now and a very limited gear ratio availability.
The whole body, from bumper to bumper, is the same as a long wheel base C/10
The frames, for the best part, are the same. There's a couple points that are beefed up, and the cab mounting pads are lower, but for all practical pourposes, they are the same.
As you suspected, the main thing are from the springs to the tires. The springs in a normal 3/4 ton, are the HD springs in a 1/2 ton, so yes, 1/2 ton springs will swap right into place.
Do you have leafs, or coils in back?
you can do the conversion as you found, or, the parts off a donor truck would do the trick too.
Swapping the entire rear exle is the best bet, and the only reasonable one that i am aware of. Modifying the eaton unit would be very expensive, and you'd still end up with a rear that is hard to find parts for and limited to a 4.10 gear.

[ABN82MP]

Nope...this is mine:




I have coils in the rear too.

Do they make the 1/2 ton rear end with 4.10s? It would be nice to find a junk yard rear end with the proper gears and not have to swap in a new R&P.

Could I swap in stock C10 spindles if I had rotors and wheels to fit them?

Thanks for the quick replys. If you guys have any Jeep questions...

[72armyswbtruck]

Nice truck,
easiest way to swap to 5 lugs are using a donor truck say 73 or newer and swap the entire thing. Only have to drill 2 holes. Everything else mats up

[Longhorn Man]

They made 4.10's in 1/2 tons, but they are not too common. If you ever venture out onto the freeway, you'll hate those gears, esp with a smaller diameter tire

[special-K]

Man,why do you want to do this?That`s an awecome C/20.Yopu want 4.10s anyway.I had them in mt camper-hauler and went to the Grand Canyon from MD.I loved hearing that rig on the hiway.I`d roll that thing along at 75 mph all day long.Mine was like a muscle car:402/TH400/4.10s/posi/tach,but with the option of a camper on back.Don`t you like thelook?Are you wanting to lower it?That can be gone without changing to 1/2t and you`d have something different.Look at all those lowered Dooleys.If they can do it,so can you.The trend is taller rims and you have that with a classic look.Might as well have the bigger beaks and bearings while you`re at it.Makes a great tow rig.Better than a wimpy 1/2t.
Can ya tell?I`m an 8-lugger from way back.Guys would kill for those slots and they look 10x better in 16.5 w/8-lugs than 15" 5 or 6-lugs.Do what you like.I just had to add my $2.00 worth. (yeah,I know,I meant $2.00 not $.02)

[ABN82MP]

I'm not set on doing it. I'm just looking for the best way to lower it. That's all I'm asking It seems from what I've read the 3/4ton stuff needed to be swapped out to do this...is this not correct?

Either way the slots are gonna go for some taller wheels

This isn't gonna be my DD. It's more of a putzing around truck and go get the kid at the sitter in style. I'd like to keep the 4.10s...and judging from how the road looks from my driveway to about 200' down the road the tire guy is gonna love me for it

[TotalChevy1]

Originally Posted by ABN82MP

I'm not set on doing it. I'm just looking for the best way to lower it. That's all I'm asking It seems from what I've read the 3/4ton stuff needed to be swapped out to do this...is this not correct?

Either way the slots are gonna go for some taller wheels

This isn't gonna be my DD. It's more of a putzing around truck and go get the kid at the sitter in style. I'd like to keep the 4.10s...and judging from how the road looks from my driveway to about 200' down the road the tire guy is gonna love me for it

Welcome, I'm in the process of doing the same thing with a c20. I'm not looking to slam it but I've lowered the front 2" and the back 4" so the truck sits almost level. The front I swaps out the springs with a set of 1/2 ton springs and the back I took part of the stack out and added shackles. I still may de-arch the rears to completely level it, but not sure. I also stayed with the 8 lug, since there are so many options for rims and the right tire shop will mount street tires which will also lower the truck another 1.5 inches. I put some goodyear 275/60/17. I also stayed with 8 lug just because '72 comes with disc brakes and the rear can be swithced to disc for less than $500 and it is a direct bolt on.

[ABN82MP]

Sounds cool.

My biggest thing is that I want to have a clear plan on how I want this thing to look in the end. I made some big and costly mistakes building my Jeep. Going from a 2.5" lift to a 7" then back to a 5.5 with several different tire sizes and gear sets in the mix. Not to mention the scads of other things I did just to get by then replaced later.

In the end for this truck I'd like to have it bagged all around, 17s or 18s with the appropriate tire size, new paint (even though this shines like a new penny...I hate red), new wood for the bed, swap out the TH350 for a 400 or 700r4, dress it up and add a blower.

I'm just in the planning stages right now as I'm currently working on restoring my 59 Willys 3B. Which reminds me...I need to get back to the shop!

[Hard Luck]

Het there TotalChevy1,

I also have a 3/4T, C25 with the leaf rear. What does it take to pull out some leafs? I am guessing you removed the lower three. How did you do the shackle(?) flip? I cannot find a new set of square leaf u-bolts.

Last part, about how much room do you have from the bottom of frame to the top of spring? (guessing that you are still leaf/over rear)

Thanks.

[ABN82MP]

Got another question...

I was poking around under my truck today and noticed I have some slop in the driveshaft where it passes through the crossmember. Is there a bearing in this crossmember? How hard is it to swap out?

[special-K]

Carrier bearing.It`s easy,because you replace the entire unit ,just unbolt from the crossmember.
On lowering coil 3/4ts you can just used the lower springs.You can drop 3" up front with springs-only.I believe to use drop spindles you`ll need to use later units,which will adapt at the tie rod ends.

[ABN82MP]

Great. Thanks for the info Tim. 3" in the front may be plenty anyway.

[barepaint]

C 20 EATON REARS can be fun not...welcome to world of c20 but all can be overcome...watch k...he knows of a black one...ask away I ask all the stupid questions used up...welcome aboard

[special-K]

I have plenty of stupid answers.

[TotalChevy1]

Originally Posted by Hard Luck

Het there TotalChevy1,

I also have a 3/4T, C25 with the leaf rear. What does it take to pull out some leafs? I am guessing you removed the lower three. How did you do the shackle(?) flip? I cannot find a new set of square leaf u-bolts.

Last part, about how much room do you have from the bottom of frame to the top of spring? (guessing that you are still leaf/over rear)

Thanks.

I took the overload spring and two other springs, every other one is the best way to explain it. On the shackles I just bought some two drops and went to a local spring shop and they made a custom set of bolts due to the stack being shorter.