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09-24-2007, 11:12 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: East Haven, CT
Posts: 882
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Just installed a new tank and pump.... now not working!
I really want to cry. For those of you who have replaced a fuel tank on a 73-87, you know how difficult it is. I got a new tank, and carter pump and strainer for my 87. It took me litterally 4 hours to line everything up and I finally got it. I put a little bit of fuel in, to make sure she would start and run on that tank. She fired up and ran for about 30 seconds. I turned it off, and drove to the gas station on my other fuel tank. I put $10 of fuel in, select the switch over to that tank. My gauge goes way past full and it won't start or run on that tank I think I would like to scream.
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09-25-2007, 11:31 AM | #2 |
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Re: Just installed a new tank and pump.... now not working!
And just to add, this must obviously be a grounding issue. For the guage to jump wayyyyy past the full mark on $10 worth of fuel, and for no fuel to be pumping, it's shorting somewhere. On my 87, it consisted of 3 fuel hoses (which I re-installed correctly), an actual wire that had a 2-prong connector at the end, I'm guessing that is for the sending unit and pump, a very thin, which appeared to be a ground wire, and then at the filler neck, a grounding strap wire. That very thin "ground wire", I had to cut in order to drop the old tank, there was no room to see where it actually connected. On installation, I twisted the wire together and added a crimp. Just because I cut it, does not mean it can't work, it's intertwined, it has to make contact! I will take a look again this weekend but if it's nothing to do with the wiring outside the tank, maybe the new pump is just faulty. I saved the working old one just in case.
Last edited by chevymotocross; 09-25-2007 at 11:32 AM. |
09-26-2007, 12:36 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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Re: Just installed a new tank and pump.... now not working!
The one you pulled out worked?
Can you even tell if the motor is priming or is it doing nothing at all?
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
09-26-2007, 11:03 AM | #4 |
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Re: Just installed a new tank and pump.... now not working!
The one I pulled worked, the only reason I replaced the pump/strainer was because the job is tough enough replacing a tank, so I figured while I'm there why not throw in a $40 pump. It must not be priming at all, because as soon as I would switch to the auxillary tank, the truck would fire right up. Here is the wierd part, yesterday I go to show a buddy what is wrong, and the pump operates and has an accurate gauge. I was able to drive around all day yesterday on the new pump. I will see what happens today. I still don't trust it though. For it to not work for an entire day, after I installed it, still does not sit well with me.
Last edited by chevymotocross; 09-26-2007 at 11:04 AM. |
09-27-2007, 11:05 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
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Re: Just installed a new tank and pump.... now not working!
That is weird. BTW, the ground goes from the tank to the frame.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
09-27-2007, 10:21 PM | #6 |
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Re: Just installed a new tank and pump.... now not working!
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09-27-2007, 10:37 PM | #7 |
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Location: Wenatchee, WA
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Re: Just installed a new tank and pump.... now not working!
I work in an Auto Electric place. One of our techs says he'd only have HALF the business if it wasn't for bad butt-connector connections. He ALWAYS solders and shrink wraps connections, and it prevents us getting comebacks.
Last edited by 1975stepside; 09-27-2007 at 10:44 PM. |
09-28-2007, 10:17 AM | #8 |
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Location: OC CA
Posts: 1,374
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Re: Just installed a new tank and pump.... now not working!
The problem is not with a butt connector. The problem is that just about every single common crimper on store shelf (you know 19.95) will not form a proper crimp. Professional grade crimping tool costs hundreds of dollars - usually available only from electrical connector manufactures -AMP, PANDUIT, and others. In addition, commonly available butt connectors are incorrectly designed - hint Chinese made garbage. Most of the 'butt' connectors are really Siamese junctions which require the two wires to overlap each other before being crimp. So, what you have is a perfect storm - bad tool and incorrectly used connector.
I agree that forming a proper solder, heat shrink it and wrap-it - it is still better than nothing. //RF
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