Front end questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

67lngbed · 10-01-2007, 04:21 PM

Hey guys Im new here and fairly new to my 67 c-10. I just replaced the complete steering setup and brakes with parts from an 87 chevy so I could use the six lug cpp rotors and get power brakes. My problem is that now I have a tighter steering radius to the left and a wider radius to the right. I cut the steering stops on the new spindles to match my 67 lower control arms and old spindles. I didn't even take the pitman arm or center link off of the steering box from the junkyard. I get 1/2 turn more out of the wheel to the left and it really sucks turningright to get into my drive way. Also does any one have any tips on bleeding the brakes after this swap.my pedal sucks.

Thanks for all the great info on this site.
Karl

PanelDeland · 10-01-2007, 05:43 PM

Sounds like you may be a tooth or two off on the splines of the gearbox/pitman arm.You probably need to remove the pitman arm and then center the steering box.Reinstall the pitman arm with the box centered.That should put your steering centered.i.e. the same turns each side.I just saw you did not take the pitman arm off when you swapped.Did you also use the later idler arm.It needs to be the one the pitman is from.
When you redid the brakes did you use the master cylinder?The original MC was for a drum drum set-up.So was the proportioning valve.If you did not change it you may never get good brakes until you switch.Also if you did replace it .Did you bench bleed the MC?It needs to be bled while locked in a vice or something to get the air out of the MC.Then starting from the farthest point away from the MC you need to bleed the rear passenger brake, then the rear drivers then front pass and front drivers.
There may be others with more info.Hopefully they will chime in.

67lngbed · 10-03-2007, 04:22 PM

Thanks fo the reply paneldeland. Yes the idler arm is off of the same truck as is the booster/mc/prop valve. I didnt bleed the mc on a vise I did it on the truck with hard lines bent to go into the resivouir. There could still be air in it because you can push the piston in further with it off of the truck. I was just hoping to not have to take it back off. As for bleeding the brakes at least on my truck you do the rear driver side first(it has the longer line). Just food for thought. Has anyone had this problem because of the pushrod that hooks to the pedal. I just backed it off the threads and put a jam nut on to get an extra 1/2" or so. Should i just extend the rod to get more pedal travel. And does anyone know if the splines on the pitman arm are keyed or can i reclock it.

Thanks
Karl

forsale · 10-04-2007, 10:41 AM

What parts did you use for the swap? I know you got stuff of an 87 but what exactly did you need to rob from it? I would also like to keep the front 6 lug.

67lngbed · 10-04-2007, 02:50 PM

I used the booster/mc/prop valve/spindles/rotors/flex lines/steering box/and all other steering components(idler,pitman,etc..). On my 67 I kept the stock control arms because they were in great shape.but I did have to modify the spindles steering stop. You have to make sure you get everthing off of a heavy half ton truck with the 1 1/4" rotors because that is the only rotors that the aftermarket sells. I got mine from cpp and they came drilled and slotted. If you are geting the steering box also grab the rag joint because they are different as well. I had to change the ball joints to match the 87. New calipers are pretty cheap like 18 bucks but the core charge was like 15 so you might want to get them too. You will also have to either take the hard brake lines off of the donor truck or bend your own. thats about all i remember hope it helps.

forsale · 10-05-2007, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67lngbed

I used the booster/mc/prop valve/spindles/rotors/flex lines/steering box/and all other steering components(idler,pitman,etc..). On my 67 I kept the stock control arms because they were in great shape.but I did have to modify the spindles steering stop. You have to make sure you get everthing off of a heavy half ton truck with the 1 1/4" rotors because that is the only rotors that the aftermarket sells. I got mine from cpp and they came drilled and slotted. If you are geting the steering box also grab the rag joint because they are different as well. I had to change the ball joints to match the 87. New calipers are pretty cheap like 18 bucks but the core charge was like 15 so you might want to get them too. You will also have to either take the hard brake lines off of the donor truck or bend your own. thats about all i remember hope it helps.

That helps. What do you think you spent by doing it this way? Why not buy a kit? Are you going to lower your truck? Why change the box?

67lngbed · 10-05-2007, 05:08 PM

It probably cost me about 450 to do everything. I went from manual drums to power discs. If you look at the complete kits with ball joints and booster they start at around 800. As for the steering box mine was kind of sloppy and i didnt want any problems with pitman arm fitment. You could just order some tie-rod adaptors and keep you stock steering.

10-01-2007, 04:21 PM	#1
67lngbed Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: baltimore md Posts: 45	Front end questions Hey guys Im new here and fairly new to my 67 c-10. I just replaced the complete steering setup and brakes with parts from an 87 chevy so I could use the six lug cpp rotors and get power brakes. My problem is that now I have a tighter steering radius to the left and a wider radius to the right. I cut the steering stops on the new spindles to match my 67 lower control arms and old spindles. I didn't even take the pitman arm or center link off of the steering box from the junkyard. I get 1/2 turn more out of the wheel to the left and it really sucks turningright to get into my drive way. Also does any one have any tips on bleeding the brakes after this swap.my pedal sucks. Thanks for all the great info on this site. Karl

10-01-2007, 05:43 PM	#2
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	Re: Front end questions Sounds like you may be a tooth or two off on the splines of the gearbox/pitman arm.You probably need to remove the pitman arm and then center the steering box.Reinstall the pitman arm with the box centered.That should put your steering centered.i.e. the same turns each side.I just saw you did not take the pitman arm off when you swapped.Did you also use the later idler arm.It needs to be the one the pitman is from. When you redid the brakes did you use the master cylinder?The original MC was for a drum drum set-up.So was the proportioning valve.If you did not change it you may never get good brakes until you switch.Also if you did replace it .Did you bench bleed the MC?It needs to be bled while locked in a vice or something to get the air out of the MC.Then starting from the farthest point away from the MC you need to bleed the rear passenger brake, then the rear drivers then front pass and front drivers. There may be others with more info.Hopefully they will chime in. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" Last edited by PanelDeland; 10-01-2007 at 05:45 PM.

10-03-2007, 04:22 PM	#3
67lngbed Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: baltimore md Posts: 45	Re: Front end questions Thanks fo the reply paneldeland. Yes the idler arm is off of the same truck as is the booster/mc/prop valve. I didnt bleed the mc on a vise I did it on the truck with hard lines bent to go into the resivouir. There could still be air in it because you can push the piston in further with it off of the truck. I was just hoping to not have to take it back off. As for bleeding the brakes at least on my truck you do the rear driver side first(it has the longer line). Just food for thought. Has anyone had this problem because of the pushrod that hooks to the pedal. I just backed it off the threads and put a jam nut on to get an extra 1/2" or so. Should i just extend the rod to get more pedal travel. And does anyone know if the splines on the pitman arm are keyed or can i reclock it. Thanks Karl

10-04-2007, 10:41 AM	#4
forsale Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Shingle springs, CA Posts: 51	Re: Front end questions What parts did you use for the swap? I know you got stuff of an 87 but what exactly did you need to rob from it? I would also like to keep the front 6 lug.

10-04-2007, 02:50 PM	#5
67lngbed Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: baltimore md Posts: 45	Re: Front end questions I used the booster/mc/prop valve/spindles/rotors/flex lines/steering box/and all other steering components(idler,pitman,etc..). On my 67 I kept the stock control arms because they were in great shape.but I did have to modify the spindles steering stop. You have to make sure you get everthing off of a heavy half ton truck with the 1 1/4" rotors because that is the only rotors that the aftermarket sells. I got mine from cpp and they came drilled and slotted. If you are geting the steering box also grab the rag joint because they are different as well. I had to change the ball joints to match the 87. New calipers are pretty cheap like 18 bucks but the core charge was like 15 so you might want to get them too. You will also have to either take the hard brake lines off of the donor truck or bend your own. thats about all i remember hope it helps.

10-05-2007, 05:08 PM	#7
67lngbed Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: baltimore md Posts: 45	Re: Front end questions It probably cost me about 450 to do everything. I went from manual drums to power discs. If you look at the complete kits with ball joints and booster they start at around 800. As for the steering box mine was kind of sloppy and i didnt want any problems with pitman arm fitment. You could just order some tie-rod adaptors and keep you stock steering.



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