Notch questions ???

[Spray-Bomb]

I've been looking & the biggest bolt in notch I've seen is 2 1/4" deep

My question is: can I make a weld in notch with 3 maybe 4" pipe, if I box & plate the sides of the frame in that area ???

[Shane]

4" pipe is only going to give you a 2" notch ... think about it.

[edflores]

ha. smart. maybe 6" pipe. that will give you 3". i almost missed that too....

[SCOTI]

You can use the smaller diameter pipe if you add 'legs' to extend the end of the 'C'. Cut the 4" dia pipe in half & then add straight sections of the same thickness of metal in whatever length you need @ the end of the 'C'. Basically the 'C' becomes a 'U' section.

But the 6" will offer more wiggle room.

[Spray-Bomb]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You can use the smaller diameter pipe if you add 'legs' to extend the end of the 'C'. Cut the 4" dia pipe in half & then add straight sections of the same thickness of metal in whatever length you need @ the end of the 'C'. Basically the 'C' becomes a 'U' section.

But the 6" will offer more wiggle room.

Now this is why we keep you around man

I was tired, didn't even think about that
But basically what can I get a way with here ???

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Spray-Bomb

Now this is why we keep you around man

I was tired, didn't even think about that
But basically what can I get a way with here ???

The 4" dia pipe is going to be cutting it close as far as spacing vs. the rear axle. It's tough to keep everything centered just right so the you gain the full benefits of the c-notch. The 6" allows for a little more 'wiggle' room.

Case in point: My 67 had the c-notch done w/the 4" dimension by a local shop. It clears the axle tube just fine..... but the pad that locates the housing to the trailing arm & the brake lines are a different story. I either have to re-do the c-notch or tweak whats there (which IMO looks like an after-thought). I decided to get another frame & do it over...... myself this time.

[Scott68-93-97]

Hey Spay Bomb!! Sorry for offending you in the other post if you read it there is an apology never ment to make you mad but anyway, are you looking to just notch the frame or step it and either cut the floor or raise it, if you dont care about tubbing the hole truck or raising the floor check out the notches in my 97 build I can lay out on 22's with those

[Kontrol Phreaks]

You know that we make a notch that's designed to match the contour of the 60-72 C10 frames. You can shorten the sides and top cap to be the exact heigth that you're looking for, and it will be super easy to install because of the shape.
Here's an image of the notch to give you an idea of the shape.



Let me know if you have any other questions, or think this will help you with your project.

[pissonNOS]

Originally Posted by Kontrol Phreaks

You know that we make a notch that's designed to match the contour of the 60-72 C10 frames. You can shorten the sides and top cap to be the exact heigth that you're looking for, and it will be super easy to install because of the shape.
Here's an image of the notch to give you an idea of the shape.



Let me know if you have any other questions, or think this will help you with your project.

hey clint I dont mean to take away from the original post but do most bolt in notches have the contour as well? with your notch would the frame have to be cut and weld that in as opposed to welding in another notch and just cutting out what isnt needed? just trying to figure out which route I want to go here

[Spray-Bomb]

Scott I'm cool, I think you got my PM

SCOTI... I think that 4" is prolly too close for comfort, so do you think 6" would be good ???

Clint... I just haven't decided if I want to cut up my floor or not, main reason being that my front can only go so low right now & I dunno if I want to make the capable of going lower than the front (It's just never low enough for me, so I may go ahead & make the rear do what I want, and the make the front lay later)

[SCOTI]

6" works well on c-notches. If you want (need) more height for the top of the notch.... add the 'legs' @ the end of the 'C'.

[Kontrol Phreaks]

If you want to do a notch and keep the original bed floor intact, then the notch will have to be extremely small. Reasone being is that the frame on the 60-72 trucks kicks up right over the axle and there's only 1 inch of clearance between the bed floor and frame rail in that area. The bed floor support rail actually sits on top of the frame there.

[Scott68-93-97]

Originally Posted by Spray-Bomb

Scott I'm cool, I think you got my PM

SCOTI... I think that 4" is prolly too close for comfort, so do you think 6" would be good ???

Clint... I just haven't decided if I want to cut up my floor or not, main reason being that my front can only go so low right now & I dunno if I want to make the capable of going lower than the front (It's just never low enough for me, so I may go ahead & make the rear do what I want, and the make the front lay later)

If I can make a suggestion I would make the back lay as low as it can and worry about the front later, I re did my front and back and am regreting it because it takes a lot more work and time to redo instead of doing it the first time planning ahead for the future

[Kontrol Phreaks]

Originally Posted by pissonNOS

hey clint I dont mean to take away from the original post but do most bolt in notches have the contour as well? with your notch would the frame have to be cut and weld that in as opposed to welding in another notch and just cutting out what isnt needed? just trying to figure out which route I want to go here

The only bolt-in notch out there that has a curve to match the frame would be the CPP or ECE ones. They are small enough to no interfear with bedfloor modifications, but don't give you very much of a frame notch.
Our step notch kit comes in 8 pieces (4 for each side) and can be trimmed down to a custom heigth by the customer when they install it.

[pissonNOS]

Originally Posted by Kontrol Phreaks

The only bolt-in notch out there that has a curve to match the frame would be the CPP or ECE ones. They are small enough to no interfear with bedfloor modifications, but don't give you very much of a frame notch.
Our step notch kit comes in 8 pieces (4 for each side) and can be trimmed down to a custom heigth by the customer when they install it.

thank you

[Scott68-93-97]

Originally Posted by Kontrol Phreaks

You know that we make a notch that's designed to match the contour of the 60-72 C10 frames. You can shorten the sides and top cap to be the exact heigth that you're looking for, and it will be super easy to install because of the shape.
Here's an image of the notch to give you an idea of the shape.



Let me know if you have any other questions, or think this will help you with your project.

Have you guys looked into building a round style that fits the contour I like them they look cool and dont have any stress points like the corners of the step notch, my old step notches on my 97 the 2 side plates cracked from the inner corner to the outer corner, granted I did use the truck as a work truck and carried some weight for a while but who knows, heres a pic

[Spray-Bomb]

That would be sweet if KP bent some up to fit that where round like that !!!

[Shane]

gonna be pretty difficult to get the offset that occurs over the rear axle with a curved unit like that ...

[Spray-Bomb]

Wonder if they could do it like the other one & build it in pieces so it's not really bent pipe, but welded plate ???

[see ten]

Originally Posted by Kontrol Phreaks

The only bolt-in notch out there that has a curve to match the frame would be the CPP or ECE ones. They are small enough to no interfear with bedfloor modifications, but don't give you very much of a frame notch.
Our step notch kit comes in 8 pieces (4 for each side) and can be trimmed down to a custom heigth by the customer when they install it.

As far as i know ECE doesn't sell a notch. I think Mcgauheys has one as well as ART (for about double or triple the price of the other guys).

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by see ten

As far as i know ECE doesn't sell a notch. I think Mcgauheys has one as well as ART (for about double or triple the price of the other guys).

He's right. No ECE notch. The ART is the deepest c-notch, but you still can't use it all before hitting the bed floor- more room for a taller bumpstop, I guess...

[Scott68-93-97]

Originally Posted by Shane

gonna be pretty difficult to get the offset that occurs over the rear axle with a curved unit like that ...

It would be just as easy as the others start out with the side plates break them and theyed have to make a wider top and bottom peices and just cut out what you dont need after the bends, they'de be produced just like the others just round, the notches start out as 4 peices. Who knows maybe I'll get around to mach'n one up and see how it turns out

[Scott68-93-97]

Originally Posted by Spray-Bomb

Wonder if they could do it like the other one & build it in pieces so it's not really bent pipe, but welded plate ???

They are seperate peices I just cut in into the edges at a 45 and welded em up and barely ground any weld off to give them the smooth look

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Kontrol Phreaks

You know that we make a notch that's designed to match the contour of the 60-72 C10 frames. You can shorten the sides and top cap to be the exact heigth that you're looking for, and it will be super easy to install because of the shape.
Here's an image of the notch to give you an idea of the shape.



Let me know if you have any other questions, or think this will help you with your project.

Most guys don't do this I think,but the rear end on these trucks is way to far foward when you lower then a lot. I want to move mine back a inch or two if I keep my current setup. How will your notch work if it is moved back a inch or two?