New Wheel Color - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

VDOG · 10-07-2007, 05:32 PM

Change the wheels to Rustolem rattle can gloss black. The chrome look on this tired stock color was not working for me.
Also anybody lowered their truck only to have the driveshaft center bearing squeal? Mine is warn out, do I need a special one on a replacement will work?
And is it hard to change, DIY anyone?

Brock · 10-07-2007, 06:15 PM

Nope...Don't like the black rims...change them back

Just playin' they look good...maybe you should rattlecan the truck?!?

VDOG · 10-07-2007, 07:13 PM

Dont think I did not think about it!! Cant hide that much bodywork with rattle can paint.

68gmsee · 10-07-2007, 07:37 PM

My .02:

I'm a chrome person, but don't mind painted rims. I painted mine blue on one of my trucks. I think the black rims will go great with thin whitewall tires. They seem sort of dark as they are. Might be the lighting.

VDOG · 10-07-2007, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

My .02:

I'm a chrome person, but don't mind painted rims. I painted mine blue on one of my trucks. I think the black rims will go great with thin whitewall tires. They seem sort of dark as they are. Might be the lighting.

The lighting is fine its the cheap $20.00 digital camera from Sears thats not helping. LOL!! Well I washed the truck Friday and Armor All the tires so thats another reason for the dark wheels.
I got chrome rallyes 2 15x8 and 2 15x10 for $25.00 from a friend of mine. The chrome was rusting and flaking on some parts of the wheel in the lip area thats why I painted them.
Had to get the 15x10's repaired because the back space was 6 1/2 inches toward the front lip. Had it move back tp 4 1/2 from back lip.
When I finish the truck then I will have a nice set of 18" and or 20' wheels on it.

chvtrkman · 10-07-2007, 08:25 PM

Carrier bearings are not that hard to change, although I do remember having a bear of a time getting the old bearing off the driveshaft after removing from the truck.Put the shaft on a bench, hold in place with a vise. Then get a BIG hammer, a chisel, and a can of penetrating oil. Mine came off after about 10 minutes of beating on it.

VDOG · 10-07-2007, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chvtrkman

Carrier bearings are not that hard to change, although I do remember having a bear of a time getting the old bearing off the driveshaft after removing from the truck.Put the shaft on a bench, hold in place with a vise. Then get a BIG hammer, a chisel, and a can of penetrating oil. Mine came off after about 10 minutes of beating on it.

So I need to take the 2 piece drive shaft out? Where should I unblot the drive shaft? From the rearend or the transmission?

Andy4639 · 10-07-2007, 09:21 PM

Two peice drive shaft comes apart at the rear end and take the carrier off with two bolts the drive shaft will slide out of the transmission. You will need one of those plastic plugs they put in the trans.
You could leave the front tires on the ground and just support the rear end up on stands to.

67_C-30 · 10-07-2007, 09:25 PM

I think if you pop some stainless trim rings and center caps on there it will look even better!

Longhorn Man · 10-07-2007, 09:28 PM

I would NEVER beat on a shaft with a hammer of any sort. We fire ppl at work for that stuff. That shaft spins anywhere between 2500 to 3500 RPMs when you go down the freeway... higher if you have a lead foot.
Take it to a drive shaft shop, have them inspect the 3 U-joints, they'll replace them (without a hammer) if they are bad, they'll spin it and ballance it if needed.
I'm the cheapest SOB you'll ever meet, but I still took my drive shafts into a shop.

67_C-30 · 10-07-2007, 09:57 PM

You can press the U joints apart in a vice with a 5/8 or smaller socket on 1 side and a 15/16" or 1" socket on the other side. The big sockets allows the cup to slide out into the socket. Easy as pie, and no impact like beating causes on the ears of the shaft. This is basically what a shop will do, except a good shop with a press set-up to do it. Its the same principle though.

VDOG · 10-07-2007, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

I think if you pop some stainless trim rings and center caps on there it will look even better!

Thats the plan. If I would have gotten my tired butt up this morning and went to the Long Beach Hi-Performance swapmeet this morning around
5:30am I could have bought the trim rings and baby moon caps.

VDOG · 10-07-2007, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I would NEVER beat on a shaft with a hammer of any sort. We fire ppl at work for that stuff. That shaft spins anywhere between 2500 to 3500 RPMs when you go down the freeway... higher if you have a lead foot.
Take it to a drive shaft shop, have them inspect the 3 U-joints, they'll replace them (without a hammer) if they are bad, they'll spin it and ballance it if needed.
I'm the cheapest SOB you'll ever meet, but I still took my drive shafts into a shop.

I just need to change the driveshaft center bearing cause its squealling since I lowered my truck. Are you saying I should change the U-Joints also?

sdkid · 10-07-2007, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

I think if you pop some stainless trim rings and center caps on there it will look even better!

Amen...

72armyswbtruck · 10-08-2007, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDOG

I just need to change the driveshaft center bearing cause its squealling since I lowered my truck. Are you saying I should change the U-Joints also?

If your changing out the center carrier bearing then you should spend the little extra and replace the u-joints at the same time, not that much more money but saves you time, effort and energy down the road.
JM2C

Longhorn Man · 10-08-2007, 05:49 PM

I say the people who do it every day will be able to tell you if they are good or need replacing.
I agree it's not a bad idea to chainge them, but I understand money is money.

VDOG · 10-09-2007, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I say the people who do it every day will be able to tell you if they are good or need replacing.
I agree it's not a bad idea to chainge them, but I understand money is money.

The heck with the money, if it needs to be done then thats one less thing I have to do.
Seems like ever since I lowered the truck one thing has lead to another. Since I got my rearend rebuilt now my truck is running hot. So I added a temp gauge yesterday and it showd 180 degrees. My idiot light kept coming on so I got the gauge to show me where I was at. Last week my fuel gauge
was working as it has off and on and then my generator light came on while the truck was running and the fuel gauge stop working. Truck was still firing up so change the voltage regulator, generator light wen out, fuel gauge still not working.
Whats next!!

10-07-2007, 05:32 PM	#1
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	New Wheel Color Change the wheels to Rustolem rattle can gloss black. The chrome look on this tired stock color was not working for me. Also anybody lowered their truck only to have the driveshaft center bearing squeal? Mine is warn out, do I need a special one on a replacement will work? And is it hard to change, DIY anyone? Attached Images

10-07-2007, 06:15 PM	#2
Brock upgrading to an older model Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Sacramento, KY Posts: 346	Re: New Wheel Color Nope...Don't like the black rims...change them back Just playin' they look good...maybe you should rattlecan the truck?!? __________________ 68 stepside, short-box, multi-colored (for now)

10-07-2007, 07:13 PM	#3
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: New Wheel Color Dont think I did not think about it!! Cant hide that much bodywork with rattle can paint.

10-07-2007, 07:37 PM	#4
68gmsee Active Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area. Posts: 7,947	Re: New Wheel Color My .02: I'm a chrome person, but don't mind painted rims. I painted mine blue on one of my trucks. I think the black rims will go great with thin whitewall tires. They seem sort of dark as they are. Might be the lighting.

10-07-2007, 08:25 PM	#6
chvtrkman Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: PA. Posts: 178	Re: New Wheel Color Carrier bearings are not that hard to change, although I do remember having a bear of a time getting the old bearing off the driveshaft after removing from the truck.Put the shaft on a bench, hold in place with a vise. Then get a BIG hammer, a chisel, and a can of penetrating oil. Mine came off after about 10 minutes of beating on it. __________________ _____________________________________________ 69 C-20 292, 4 spd O/D, 4:56 rears. No a/c p/s p/b p/w......restoration project,"Operation:Stovebolt" 78 C-10 305 TH350 new (old) daily driver 02 Suburban Z71 a.k.a. the family truckster 99 Silverado 1500 Z71

10-07-2007, 09:21 PM	#8
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,936	Re: New Wheel Color Two peice drive shaft comes apart at the rear end and take the carrier off with two bolts the drive shaft will slide out of the transmission. You will need one of those plastic plugs they put in the trans. You could leave the front tires on the ground and just support the rear end up on stands to. __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.

10-07-2007, 09:25 PM	#9
67_C-30 I have a radical idea! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Sweet Home Alabama! Posts: 6,513	Re: New Wheel Color I think if you pop some stainless trim rings and center caps on there it will look even better! __________________ '67 C-30 Dually Pickup 6.2 Turbo Diesel, NP435 ‘72 C-10 SWB , 350 4bbl, TH350 '69 C-10 SWB , 250 L6, 3 OTT '69 GMC C3500, dump truck, 351 V6, NP435 '84 M1009 CUCV Military Blazer 67 C-30 Turbodiesel build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=254096 My trucks http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ediafilter=all Member of the 1-Ton Club!

10-07-2007, 09:28 PM	#10
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: New Wheel Color I would NEVER beat on a shaft with a hammer of any sort. We fire ppl at work for that stuff. That shaft spins anywhere between 2500 to 3500 RPMs when you go down the freeway... higher if you have a lead foot. Take it to a drive shaft shop, have them inspect the 3 U-joints, they'll replace them (without a hammer) if they are bad, they'll spin it and ballance it if needed. I'm the cheapest SOB you'll ever meet, but I still took my drive shafts into a shop.

10-07-2007, 09:57 PM	#11
67_C-30 I have a radical idea! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Sweet Home Alabama! Posts: 6,513	Re: New Wheel Color You can press the U joints apart in a vice with a 5/8 or smaller socket on 1 side and a 15/16" or 1" socket on the other side. The big sockets allows the cup to slide out into the socket. Easy as pie, and no impact like beating causes on the ears of the shaft. This is basically what a shop will do, except a good shop with a press set-up to do it. Its the same principle though. __________________ '67 C-30 Dually Pickup 6.2 Turbo Diesel, NP435 ‘72 C-10 SWB , 350 4bbl, TH350 '69 C-10 SWB , 250 L6, 3 OTT '69 GMC C3500, dump truck, 351 V6, NP435 '84 M1009 CUCV Military Blazer 67 C-30 Turbodiesel build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=254096 My trucks http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ediafilter=all Member of the 1-Ton Club!

10-08-2007, 05:49 PM	#16
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: New Wheel Color I say the people who do it every day will be able to tell you if they are good or need replacing. I agree it's not a bad idea to chainge them, but I understand money is money.



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