C20 wheel compatibility - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

DaveC20 · 12-30-2002, 05:03 PM

Hey everybody, am I glad to find this board! I've enjoyed reading several of the threads and I know there's a lot of people here that will immediately know the answer to a question I have.

Here's some background. My family's had a 1968 2WD C20 since 1977. It's got a 292 CID motor and a 4 speed w/ bulldog. It's in really good shape except for some rust on the front of the hood. It's got heavy duty springs (maybe even more than a std. suspension?) I used to haul 5000 lbs of coal in it routinely before we got a better source of heat.

This truck has 8-lug wheels. (I guess that's standard for a 3/4 ton). I'm thinking the wheels on it are original equipment. The problem is that they are 2 piece rims with the thing that looks like a beadlock. Whenever I take it to have a tire repaired, the people at the tire store look at me like I'm driving around on war surplus from Eastern Europe. Some places have said they don't want anything to do with the two-piece rims because they have a habit of flying apart and killing and maiming people. The places that will work on it stick the wheels in a steel cage to inflate the tires. I've gotten to the point that even I sort of stand to the side and flinch when I put air in the tires.

Now here's where I'd really appreciate a little help. I've decided that I really need to replace these wheels and I'm looking at my alternatives. I've seen several sets of new "take-offs" from R/V dealers and such on eBay. Am I right in thinking that I can use an 8-lug GM wheel from a new truck on my '68 model? I'd hate to buy a set of wheels that I'd end up having to use as boat anchors or industrial strength paperweights.

keenee · 12-30-2002, 06:20 PM

The late model 8 bolt wheels will fit your 8 bolt truck, BUT the wheel offset will be way off. The wheels will be set too far under the truck, and will look like, well, BAD, not good bad, just bad. If you are just looking for steel wheels, any GM 8 bolt truck or van wheel up to 1988 will work, and are had for under $20 each at the bone yard.

hughnews1 · 12-30-2002, 06:34 PM

change to 5 lug I have a c-20 71 from AZ not using the 8 lugs at all new rally 5 lugs this spring when the salt and snow is GONE ... raining right now out here is W , NY ... thanks for the read HUGH

**ThreeQuarter** · 12-30-2002, 06:38 PM

Welcome to the board!

Yeah, what keenee said. And take a tape measure with you. While all those old 8-lug wheels will bolt to yours, you'd rather have GM wheels, because they have the proper hub cutout size. (This might matter if you were to start hauling 5,000 lbs. of coal again.) The GM wheel hub cutouts will be in the neighborhood of 4.5" and the others will be almost 5". I paid $20 apiece last week for two nice, shiny ones with some OK tires on them; I bet if you bought 4 wheels only, you should be able to do it for less than $75 (I'd offer $40 to start).

Those split rims are dangerous and not worth the risk. I have a complete set of five that I can't pull myself to throw away...like the auto museum is gonna call me up some day and want them or something...

Happy hunting!

**Tim Christian** · 12-30-2002, 08:55 PM

Hey DaveC20, Welcome to the board! I have been to Gate City a million times. Use to go swiming over there in the rock quarry when I was growing up. Growed up in Kingsport. I live in Rogersville, Tennessee now about 45min to 1 hour from you. I also sell parts for these trucks if you need anything let me know. I can save you on shipping. My Mom still lives up there and I could drop anything you need off. Again Welcome to the board and I look foward to seeing you post on here!

Longhorn Man · 12-31-2002, 12:26 AM

Welcome to the board.
As you have found out, the split rims are dangerouse, and hard to get ppl to mess with. I say cut them in 1/2 and burry them in a shallow grage...on second thoguht, burry them real deep...return them to the earth.
One thing to add to the above posts, don't bother with 16.5 inch rims...move up (or down rather) to 16 inchers. If you don't know why...look in a tire add and you'll realize real quick...16.5's are going the way of the pet rock. Not only are they hard to find, but they cost way more than a basic skinny X tall tire should.
I also agree with the junk yard rims...especially if your ride is a beater. Slap a fresh coat of off white paint on the rims before mounting the new tires on them, get your stock hub caps (or what ever you can dig up) and maybe even some trim rings, then you'll be looking good, and no one will lose there head when you get new tires.

DaveC20 · 12-31-2002, 02:00 AM

Thanks everybody for your help. I'm glad I checked before doing anything. The old truck has been around so long that it's family and I don't think I could bear to part with it. I'm not ready to make it a show truck or anything but I would like it to be fairly presentable.

One of the great things about these older trucks is that they're simple enough that even people like me can do a lot of work on them. I believe I'd much rather depend on my '68 model truck than a '90 model with all the computer stuff and a "Check Engine Light" that somes on every other week. I'm pleased my Dad never did trade it in for a newer model.

Hey Tim - nice to meet you. Yeah I'm quite familiar with Rogersville. I make a point to get down to the Steam Plant a couple times a year in April when the stripes start running out of Cherokee. I've also spent countless nights down at the dirt track at Bull's Gap. Do you sell parts specific for these trucks? For instance, in addition to the wheels, I need to get a new exterior driver's side door handle, a new choke cable and knob, and some trim pieces (and probably some more stuff too) I've got an LMC catalog but I'd be inclined to shop locally for things if I can get them.

Longhorn Man · 12-31-2002, 03:43 PM

Go to the main page on here and check out the vendors, you can do much better than LMC both in price and quality.

**Tim Christian** · 12-31-2002, 07:10 PM

Hey Dave, I can help you out Locally! You can see what you buy and save on shipping cost. You will have to come by the shop one day. I just live right above the Steam Plant. Later Tim

DaveC20 · 12-31-2002, 08:44 PM

Thanks longhornmail. I missed that the part of the web site that had the vendors and sponsors. I checked out your Longhorn web site too. Very cool. I didn't realize that 1968 was the 50th anniversary for GM. My truck has the gold and white paint scheme like several of the pics you show. Do you guess it's safe to say that it was one of the 50th anniversary trucks?

Tim. I'll send you an e-mail about some of the stuff I could use right now.

**Palf70Step** · 12-31-2002, 08:48 PM

Welcome DaveC20 from the lower part of this world, Mississippi. Come join the madness. It's fun.

Longhorn Man · 01-02-2003, 12:54 AM

Dave, check your glove box option codes...the 50th trucks all had 551 off white/gold, and 627 parch vinyl trim. Thats what makes it a 50h. There were some paints that were real close and looks right, but these two codes are what you need.

spinning wheels · 01-02-2003, 02:19 AM

Dave, welcome to the board. I have a '72 3/4 with the 8 lugs. I purchased 4 Chevy rims with beauty rings, at a local car swapmeet. I got them for $50 bucks. These were takeoffs from a '99 Chevy truck. I later got another set of GM wheels off a 3/4 ton suburban. I got those for free with the stainless steel hubcaps. From my understanding, the 2000 on up, use a metric bolt pattern that won't fit the earlier 3/4 GMs. Good luck, and look for people that have upgraded to aftermarket wheels. They will usually be happy to clear up some garage space, that the stock rims are taking up.

hecticblasts · 01-02-2003, 01:24 PM

This topic was discussed on an earlier thread.The bolt pattern is the same for all the wheels 8x6.5.The newer wheels will fit the older trucks.As mentioned here there is a difference on the back spacing of the wheels and when mounted on the rear the center cap for the new wheel will lack about an inch to mount properly.That's a problem that could be solved in my opinion in one of two ways

1)placing a spacer between the wheel and the hub or (2) placing a spacer between the wheel and the center cap.Putting the spacer behind the wheel will require longer studs,putting it behind the center cap will require and extension of the external threads on the lugnut,new extension pieces will be needed.I guess a third option will be to split the difference and place spacers at both places,behind the wheel and the center cap.I'm determined to run these wheels on my '72 so as time alouds I'll be working on it to see what I can come up with,I'll keep you all posted.HF

12-30-2002, 05:03 PM	#1
DaveC20 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Gate City, VA Posts: 14	C20 wheel compatibility Hey everybody, am I glad to find this board! I've enjoyed reading several of the threads and I know there's a lot of people here that will immediately know the answer to a question I have. Here's some background. My family's had a 1968 2WD C20 since 1977. It's got a 292 CID motor and a 4 speed w/ bulldog. It's in really good shape except for some rust on the front of the hood. It's got heavy duty springs (maybe even more than a std. suspension?) I used to haul 5000 lbs of coal in it routinely before we got a better source of heat. This truck has 8-lug wheels. (I guess that's standard for a 3/4 ton). I'm thinking the wheels on it are original equipment. The problem is that they are 2 piece rims with the thing that looks like a beadlock. Whenever I take it to have a tire repaired, the people at the tire store look at me like I'm driving around on war surplus from Eastern Europe. Some places have said they don't want anything to do with the two-piece rims because they have a habit of flying apart and killing and maiming people. The places that will work on it stick the wheels in a steel cage to inflate the tires. I've gotten to the point that even I sort of stand to the side and flinch when I put air in the tires. Now here's where I'd really appreciate a little help. I've decided that I really need to replace these wheels and I'm looking at my alternatives. I've seen several sets of new "take-offs" from R/V dealers and such on eBay. Am I right in thinking that I can use an 8-lug GM wheel from a new truck on my '68 model? I'd hate to buy a set of wheels that I'd end up having to use as boat anchors or industrial strength paperweights.

12-30-2002, 06:20 PM	#2
keenee Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houston, Pennsylvania Posts: 231	The late model 8 bolt wheels will fit your 8 bolt truck, BUT the wheel offset will be way off. The wheels will be set too far under the truck, and will look like, well, BAD, not good bad, just bad. If you are just looking for steel wheels, any GM 8 bolt truck or van wheel up to 1988 will work, and are had for under $20 each at the bone yard. __________________ '96 GMC Suburban 6.5t '99 F**d Windstar '07 SON '09 DAUGHTER XOXOXO Wife

12-30-2002, 06:38 PM	#4
ThreeQuarter Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Texan in Iowa Posts: 2,522	Welcome to the board! Yeah, what keenee said. And take a tape measure with you. While all those old 8-lug wheels will bolt to yours, you'd rather have GM wheels, because they have the proper hub cutout size. (This might matter if you were to start hauling 5,000 lbs. of coal again.) The GM wheel hub cutouts will be in the neighborhood of 4.5" and the others will be almost 5". I paid $20 apiece last week for two nice, shiny ones with some OK tires on them; I bet if you bought 4 wheels only, you should be able to do it for less than $75 (I'd offer $40 to start). Those split rims *are* dangerous and not worth the risk. I have a complete set of five that I can't pull myself to throw away...like the auto museum is gonna call me up some day and want them or something... Happy hunting! __________________ Ben '68 Chevy C10 Custom LWB 327/TH400 2nd owner '16 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Dblcab 4wd 5.3

12-31-2002, 08:48 PM	#11
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 46,979	Welcome DaveC20 from the lower part of this world, Mississippi. Come join the madness. It's fun. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

01-02-2003, 02:19 AM	#13
spinning wheels Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Hacienda Heights, California USA Posts: 474	Dave, welcome to the board. I have a '72 3/4 with the 8 lugs. I purchased 4 Chevy rims with beauty rings, at a local car swapmeet. I got them for $50 bucks. These were takeoffs from a '99 Chevy truck. I later got another set of GM wheels off a 3/4 ton suburban. I got those for free with the stainless steel hubcaps. From my understanding, the 2000 on up, use a metric bolt pattern that won't fit the earlier 3/4 GMs. Good luck, and look for people that have upgraded to aftermarket wheels. They will usually be happy to clear up some garage space, that the stock rims are taking up. __________________ '72 GMC custom camper 350/350

12-30-2002, 06:34 PM	#3
hughnews1 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Hudson FL gulf coast Posts: 624	change to 5 lug I have a c-20 71 from AZ not using the 8 lugs at all new rally 5 lugs this spring when the salt and snow is GONE ... raining right now out here is W , NY ... thanks for the read HUGH

12-30-2002, 08:55 PM	#5
Tim Christian Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: TN/VA Posts: 6,388	Hey DaveC20, Welcome to the board! I have been to Gate City a million times. Use to go swiming over there in the rock quarry when I was growing up. Growed up in Kingsport. I live in Rogersville, Tennessee now about 45min to 1 hour from you. I also sell parts for these trucks if you need anything let me know. I can save you on shipping. My Mom still lives up there and I could drop anything you need off. Again Welcome to the board and I look foward to seeing you post on here!

12-31-2002, 12:26 AM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Welcome to the board. As you have found out, the split rims are dangerouse, and hard to get ppl to mess with. I say cut them in 1/2 and burry them in a shallow grage...on second thoguht, burry them real deep...return them to the earth. One thing to add to the above posts, don't bother with 16.5 inch rims...move up (or down rather) to 16 inchers. If you don't know why...look in a tire add and you'll realize real quick...16.5's are going the way of the pet rock. Not only are they hard to find, but they cost way more than a basic skinny X tall tire should. I also agree with the junk yard rims...especially if your ride is a beater. Slap a fresh coat of off white paint on the rims before mounting the new tires on them, get your stock hub caps (or what ever you can dig up) and maybe even some trim rings, then you'll be looking good, and no one will lose there head when you get new tires.

12-31-2002, 02:00 AM	#7
DaveC20 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Gate City, VA Posts: 14	Thanks everybody for your help. I'm glad I checked before doing anything. The old truck has been around so long that it's family and I don't think I could bear to part with it. I'm not ready to make it a show truck or anything but I would like it to be fairly presentable. One of the great things about these older trucks is that they're simple enough that even people like me can do a lot of work on them. I believe I'd much rather depend on my '68 model truck than a '90 model with all the computer stuff and a "Check Engine Light" that somes on every other week. I'm pleased my Dad never did trade it in for a newer model. Hey Tim - nice to meet you. Yeah I'm quite familiar with Rogersville. I make a point to get down to the Steam Plant a couple times a year in April when the stripes start running out of Cherokee. I've also spent countless nights down at the dirt track at Bull's Gap. Do you sell parts specific for these trucks? For instance, in addition to the wheels, I need to get a new exterior driver's side door handle, a new choke cable and knob, and some trim pieces (and probably some more stuff too) I've got an LMC catalog but I'd be inclined to shop locally for things if I can get them.

12-31-2002, 03:43 PM	#8
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Go to the main page on here and check out the vendors, you can do much better than LMC both in price and quality.

12-31-2002, 07:10 PM	#9
Tim Christian Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: TN/VA Posts: 6,388	Hey Dave, I can help you out Locally! You can see what you buy and save on shipping cost. You will have to come by the shop one day. I just live right above the Steam Plant. Later Tim

12-31-2002, 08:44 PM	#10
DaveC20 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Gate City, VA Posts: 14	Thanks longhornmail. I missed that the part of the web site that had the vendors and sponsors. I checked out your Longhorn web site too. Very cool. I didn't realize that 1968 was the 50th anniversary for GM. My truck has the gold and white paint scheme like several of the pics you show. Do you guess it's safe to say that it was one of the 50th anniversary trucks? Tim. I'll send you an e-mail about some of the stuff I could use right now.

01-02-2003, 12:54 AM	#12
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Dave, check your glove box option codes...the 50th trucks all had 551 off white/gold, and 627 parch vinyl trim. Thats what makes it a 50h. There were some paints that were real close and looks right, but these two codes are what you need.

01-02-2003, 01:24 PM	#14
hecticblasts Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Concord,NC Posts: 94	This topic was discussed on an earlier thread.The bolt pattern is the same for all the wheels 8x6.5.The newer wheels will fit the older trucks.As mentioned here there is a difference on the back spacing of the wheels and when mounted on the rear the center cap for the new wheel will lack about an inch to mount properly.That's a problem that could be solved in my opinion in one of two ways1)placing a spacer between the wheel and the hub or (2) placing a spacer between the wheel and the center cap.Putting the spacer behind the wheel will require longer studs,putting it behind the center cap will require and extension of the external threads on the lugnut,new extension pieces will be needed.I guess a third option will be to split the difference and place spacers at both places,behind the wheel and the center cap.I'm determined to run these wheels on my '72 so as time alouds I'll be working on it to see what I can come up with,I'll keep you all posted.HF



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