engine help - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

xshadow · 10-13-2007, 11:01 PM

I have what I believe is a 350 with a 4brl carb. that came in a 69 parts truck. It runs good with decent power. The only problem is that it smokes. Not terribly, but all the time. The engine wasn't started in a long time before I got it.

For a winter project I was thinking about doing a rebuild. Nothing major, and on a budget. New rings and bearings, gaskets, tchain. The engine code is missing from the front of the engine. Looks like it may have been rebuilt in the past. There is a place on the driver's side block that looks like a plate may have been there and fallen off. I was thinking that the engine code was ground off and a plate was put with the infor on it....now thats gone...

How can I figure out what rings to buy for it? I don't know for sure what I have. IF it has been rebuilt in the past or even if it's bored. Could I just take a piston to a machine shop for them to tell me? I don't have a ton of money to spend I just want to get rid of the smoking problem and maybe get a little extra Horsepower.
What rebuild kit should I get and where to get it.

airdale94 · 10-13-2007, 11:16 PM

Alot of times generic oversize pistons will have there oversize stamped right on the top. No way to tell really until you get one out. You could take to a machine shop and they will measure it and tell you what size it is.

willis0107 · 10-13-2007, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xshadow

I have what I believe is a 350 with a 4brl carb. that came in a 69 parts truck. It runs good with decent power. The only problem is that it smokes. Not terribly, but all the time. The engine wasn't started in a long time before I got it.

For a winter project I was thinking about doing a rebuild. Nothing major, and on a budget. New rings and bearings, gaskets, tchain. The engine code is missing from the front of the engine. Looks like it may have been rebuilt in the past. There is a place on the driver's side block that looks like a plate may have been there and fallen off. I was thinking that the engine code was ground off and a plate was put with the infor on it....now thats gone...

How can I figure out what rings to buy for it? I don't know for sure what I have. IF it has been rebuilt in the past or even if it's bored. Could I just take a piston to a machine shop for them to tell me? I don't have a ton of money to spend I just want to get rid of the smoking problem and maybe get a little extra Horsepower.
What rebuild kit should I get and where to get it.

A couple of things to look at for options until you can rebuild it one is a product called SEAFOAM this stuff works great put it in your crankcase run the engine for a while and change the oil more than likely your rings have froze on you due to sitting for a while this could help you out. The other thing that I would due is to pull a plug ( when the engine is cold) and see if it is covered in oil You could have a good engine but the valve seals are worn out. You may want to purchase a crate engine or reman engine they are sometimes cheaper Northernautoparts.com has many options for rebuild kits they get pricey though. I had the same problem with my truck smoked all the time and was irritating I had to replace the heads on it and now just need to get it timed in all the way

xshadow · 10-14-2007, 01:01 AM

I see that I can get re-ring kits from summit for around $130.00 and a cam and lifters for $79 and up. I was thinking that I could take apart the engine and take a piston to a machine shop and let them tell me what size rings I need. The engine isn't in a truck right now so I can't try the seafoam trick. I only drove the truck on the road a few times, let it run sitting for a while. I used it for burnouts untill I started getting afraid that I would get caught...I didn't register the truck and had no tags or insurnace. We live on a back road, but I was pushing my luck. I want to replace a 307. I wanted something in it with a little more HP and I figure that this engine with a rering kit and maybe a cam would be better than getting a used engine.

xshadow · 10-14-2007, 01:13 AM

thanks guys,
I just looked at Northernautoparts.com
they seem to have good prices on there rebuild kits
Looks like I can get just about everything for 169+upgrades. I may go with that. thanks for the tip on the pistons airdale. I'll probably take parts to a machine shop and let them tell me what I need and then buy from online.

cdowns · 10-14-2007, 07:22 AM

first thing i'd do before going out ordering parts and ripping things apart would be to change oil and filter and have a couple of long over the road(over 25miles) runs to see how it runs in real world use

**truckdude239** · 10-14-2007, 07:34 AM

northernautoparts.com is where i got my kit from if you rebuild the engine will probley need to be bored take it to machine shop after you have taken it apart and have them clean and check the block they will tell you then what pistons to get

**special-K** · 10-14-2007, 08:43 AM

I agree with Cdowns.I`d run some Castol in that thing.Yeah,Castrol,nothing else.It has castor oil in it and works better than any other oil to free up stuck rings and clean away light corrosion on cylinders and valves.
I was on a cross country trip in a truck that used a quart in 1 tank and I had 2,500 miles to go.I ran some Castrol in it...just added it,and the consumption went down to nil.My dad was along and kept saying,"run some Castrol in it".I kept saying,"I don`t mix my oil.I just changed it and the oil`s not the problem."After a few tanks/quarts he comes out of a truck stop with a couple qts of Castrol.I figured,What the "H".With each tank it got better.The first quart lasted 4 tanks,then after adding the second it made the rest of the way w/o adding oil.I drove the truck another 15 years(occasional driver)and even did the top-end.The cylinders had no ridge and it never smoked again.I still have the motor and it may run another truck awhile before it gets a rebuild.It`s slated to be a 383 someday.

**Boog** · 10-14-2007, 09:23 AM

Unless you want to reinstall the engine and run it the Seafoam and Castrol will not help. You can put new rings and bearings in a worn engine and it may run good for 15,000 miles or so, depending on how much wear is there. Constant smoking is a result of worn out or stuck rings, smoke upon acceleration only is usually valve seals or a combination of both. Since it's out of the truck already I'd tear it down and take it to a machine shop and have them check it out for you. The block could also be cracked and it be a waste of money to buy a rebuild kit for it.
I ran into this on a used 88 truck engine I bought. Started right up fine but smoked like all to be damn'd. I took it to the engine shop to bore and build it and right off the bat he checked the block for cracks just underneith the deck in the lifter valley. Sure nuff it was cracked from front cylinder to rear on that side. No evidence of leaking yet but the crack was there. Prior owner of this engine had gotten it really hot, oil rings stuck on 4 pistons, etc. Had to buy another block in which to build my engine.

*Billla* · 10-14-2007, 10:34 AM

It's all about budget - you noted you were tight on money; what's the actual total figure you have to spend to get whatever you do, done, and back in the chassis?

First step is to read up a bit on what it takes to do an overhaul - check the overhaul FAQ in my signature and pick up one of the books. Once you have budget and have done your research you'll have a better idea of what next steps should be.

If it's smoking but otherwise running well, I sure wouldn't tear into it...

**WorkinLonghorn** · 10-14-2007, 11:54 AM

The way I read the OP,he doesn't intend to remove the engine.He just wants to do an in-vehicle re-ring. He needs to remove a head and view and measure the bores to see if this is practical. Doesn't sound like it though.

**Boog** · 10-14-2007, 12:00 PM

In post #4 he says the engine's no longer in a truck though.

xshadow · 10-14-2007, 01:42 PM

The engine isn't in a truck right now. it was in a parts truck that I had. The engine runs really good. If something happend to a engine that is in my c/10 or k/10 I would put this engine in it the way it is right now. The smoke isn't that bad and it smoked less the more I ran it. If it smoked any less I wouln't tear into it. I just couldn't keep it in the truck any longer so I didn't have time to see if it would stop smoking. The PO said it ran great No smoke, but he didn't start it in a while. I know some people will say anything but I believe him. I know someone who will help me rebuild for free. So I know I can get it up and running again.
I just wanted to replace the 307 in the c/10 with this engine. This engine has more power. I figure that while I have time and don't need the engine why not put new rings in it.

BCOWANWHEELS · 10-14-2007, 01:49 PM

i bet the valve guide seals are cauzing it to smoke. thats the first thing i,d do before o/hauling it.
jmo
bob

xshadow · 10-14-2007, 01:52 PM

I just see no reason to use the engine while it's smoking. At first I was thinking about just a re ring kit from summit. A cheap fix for the smoking. But a rebuild kit from northern isn't that much more. I really don't think the block is cracked. I'm willing to take the chance if i'm only spending 100.00 to 200.00 for the parts
How much more would it cost to take it to a machine shop and have it bored, cleaned and checked out? What should I expect for the shop to charge for there services and how much extra money and work will it cost for parts for the rebuild?

cdowns · 10-14-2007, 02:28 PM

you're probablly looking in the $500-$600 range at the machine shop

xshadow · 10-14-2007, 03:31 PM

Yeah, I don't have the funds for that. I was tinking put the rebuild kit in and a new cam. maybe if I have more money before i need the engine i'll buy some hump heads...If I can find a set that I know are good and there just a bolt on....I know vortec is better for the money but for heads and intake it may get pricy. I'm just looking for a driver with as much power as I can get for the buck.

**truckdude239** · 10-14-2007, 10:12 PM

i just built a 305 for my 71 bored 30 out with new pistons cam and crankshaft i got a little over 500 just in parts did all the machine work me self in class

*Billla* · 10-15-2007, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn

He just wants to do an in-vehicle re-ring.

'Splain to me how you replace rings in the vehicle...and why you would want to...?

*Billla* · 10-15-2007, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckdude239

i just built a 305 for my 71 bored 30 out with new pistons cam and crankshaft i got a little over 500 just in parts did all the machine work me self in class

Cool

That piston looks WAY down in the bore...?

**truckdude239** · 10-15-2007, 06:49 AM

umm never noticed thats with it t together stock rods and stock cranck

10-13-2007, 11:01 PM	#1
xshadow Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: va Posts: 553	engine help I have what I believe is a 350 with a 4brl carb. that came in a 69 parts truck. It runs good with decent power. The only problem is that it smokes. Not terribly, but all the time. The engine wasn't started in a long time before I got it. For a winter project I was thinking about doing a rebuild. Nothing major, and on a budget. New rings and bearings, gaskets, tchain. The engine code is missing from the front of the engine. Looks like it may have been rebuilt in the past. There is a place on the driver's side block that looks like a plate may have been there and fallen off. I was thinking that the engine code was ground off and a plate was put with the infor on it....now thats gone... How can I figure out what rings to buy for it? I don't know for sure what I have. IF it has been rebuilt in the past or even if it's bored. Could I just take a piston to a machine shop for them to tell me? I don't have a ton of money to spend I just want to get rid of the smoking problem and maybe get a little extra Horsepower. What rebuild kit should I get and where to get it. Last edited by xshadow; 10-13-2007 at 11:03 PM.

10-13-2007, 11:16 PM	#2
airdale94 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Topeka,KS Posts: 778	Re: engine help Alot of times generic oversize pistons will have there oversize stamped right on the top. No way to tell really until you get one out. You could take to a machine shop and they will measure it and tell you what size it is.

10-14-2007, 01:13 AM	#5
xshadow Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: va Posts: 553	Re: engine help thanks guys, I just looked at Northernautoparts.com they seem to have good prices on there rebuild kits Looks like I can get just about everything for 169+upgrades. I may go with that. thanks for the tip on the pistons airdale. I'll probably take parts to a machine shop and let them tell me what I need and then buy from online.

10-14-2007, 07:22 AM	#6
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: engine help first thing i'd do before going out ordering parts and ripping things apart would be to change oil and filter and have a couple of long over the road(over 25miles) runs to see how it runs in real world use __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

10-14-2007, 07:34 AM	#7
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,238	Re: engine help northernautoparts.com is where i got my kit from if you rebuild the engine will probley need to be bored take it to machine shop after you have taken it apart and have them clean and check the block they will tell you then what pistons to get __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

10-14-2007, 01:01 AM	#4
xshadow Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: va Posts: 553	Re: engine help I see that I can get re-ring kits from summit for around $130.00 and a cam and lifters for $79 and up. I was thinking that I could take apart the engine and take a piston to a machine shop and let them tell me what size rings I need. The engine isn't in a truck right now so I can't try the seafoam trick. I only drove the truck on the road a few times, let it run sitting for a while. I used it for burnouts untill I started getting afraid that I would get caught...I didn't register the truck and had no tags or insurnace. We live on a back road, but I was pushing my luck. I want to replace a 307. I wanted something in it with a little more HP and I figure that this engine with a rering kit and maybe a cam would be better than getting a used engine. Last edited by xshadow; 10-14-2007 at 01:02 AM.

10-14-2007, 08:43 AM	#8
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,851	Re: engine help I agree with Cdowns.I`d run some Castol in that thing.Yeah,Castrol,nothing else.It has castor oil in it and works better than any other oil to free up stuck rings and clean away light corrosion on cylinders and valves. I was on a cross country trip in a truck that used a quart in 1 tank and I had 2,500 miles to go.I ran some Castrol in it...just added it,and the consumption went down to nil.My dad was along and kept saying,"run some Castrol in it".I kept saying,"I don`t mix my oil.I just changed it and the oil`s not the problem."After a few tanks/quarts he comes out of a truck stop with a couple qts of Castrol.I figured,What the "H".With each tank it got better.The first quart lasted 4 tanks,then after adding the second it made the rest of the way w/o adding oil.I drove the truck another 15 years(occasional driver)and even did the top-end.The cylinders had no ridge and it never smoked again.I still have the motor and it may run another truck awhile before it gets a rebuild.It`s slated to be a 383 someday. __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

10-14-2007, 09:23 AM	#9
Boog laying low Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Searcy, Ark. USA Posts: 13,535	Re: engine help Unless you want to reinstall the engine and run it the Seafoam and Castrol will not help. You can put new rings and bearings in a worn engine and it may run good for 15,000 miles or so, depending on how much wear is there. Constant smoking is a result of worn out or stuck rings, smoke upon acceleration only is usually valve seals or a combination of both. Since it's out of the truck already I'd tear it down and take it to a machine shop and have them check it out for you. The block could also be cracked and it be a waste of money to buy a rebuild kit for it. I ran into this on a used 88 truck engine I bought. Started right up fine but smoked like all to be damn'd. I took it to the engine shop to bore and build it and right off the bat he checked the block for cracks just underneith the deck in the lifter valley. Sure nuff it was cracked from front cylinder to rear on that side. No evidence of leaking yet but the crack was there. Prior owner of this engine had gotten it really hot, oil rings stuck on 4 pistons, etc. Had to buy another block in which to build my engine. __________________ Boog 69 Chevy stepside, 358/T350, 4.11 posi, 4.5/4 drop, rallys, poboy driver primer is finer 91 Chevy sportside, Tahoe, Yukon & GMC Crewcab All GM..'nuff said. I stand for the flag and kneel at the cross

10-14-2007, 10:34 AM	#10
Billla Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Monroe, WA Posts: 3,814	Re: engine help It's all about budget - you noted you were tight on money; what's the actual total figure you have to spend to get whatever you do, done, and back in the chassis? First step is to read up a bit on what it takes to do an overhaul - check the overhaul FAQ in my signature and pick up one of the books. Once you have budget and have done your research you'll have a better idea of what next steps should be. If it's smoking but otherwise running well, I sure wouldn't tear into it...

10-14-2007, 11:54 AM	#11
WorkinLonghorn Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Studio City, Calif. Posts: 2,886	Re: engine help The way I read the OP,he doesn't intend to remove the engine.He just wants to do an in-vehicle re-ring. He needs to remove a head and view and measure the bores to see if this is practical. Doesn't sound like it though. __________________ '69 GMC C2500 Custom Camper, 8 1/2' bed, New GM 350, NP 435 Close Ratio 4spd. Trans., 3.73 Dana-60 open.Camper and Trailer wiring, PS, PB, AC, tach , three gas tanks, stereo speakers, 2nd owner, Work-Truck supreme.

10-14-2007, 12:00 PM	#12
Boog laying low Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Searcy, Ark. USA Posts: 13,535	Re: engine help In post #4 he says the engine's no longer in a truck though. __________________ Boog 69 Chevy stepside, 358/T350, 4.11 posi, 4.5/4 drop, rallys, poboy driver primer is finer 91 Chevy sportside, Tahoe, Yukon & GMC Crewcab All GM..'nuff said. I stand for the flag and kneel at the cross

10-14-2007, 01:42 PM	#13
xshadow Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: va Posts: 553	Re: engine help The engine isn't in a truck right now. it was in a parts truck that I had. The engine runs really good. If something happend to a engine that is in my c/10 or k/10 I would put this engine in it the way it is right now. The smoke isn't that bad and it smoked less the more I ran it. If it smoked any less I wouln't tear into it. I just couldn't keep it in the truck any longer so I didn't have time to see if it would stop smoking. The PO said it ran great No smoke, but he didn't start it in a while. I know some people will say anything but I believe him. I know someone who will help me rebuild for free. So I know I can get it up and running again. I just wanted to replace the 307 in the c/10 with this engine. This engine has more power. I figure that while I have time and don't need the engine why not put new rings in it. Last edited by xshadow; 10-14-2007 at 01:43 PM.

10-14-2007, 01:49 PM	#14
BCOWANWHEELS Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: KINGSPORT,TN. Posts: 3,035	Re: engine help i bet the valve guide seals are cauzing it to smoke. thats the first thing i,d do before o/hauling it. jmo bob __________________ I BELIEVE IN JOHN 3:16

10-14-2007, 01:52 PM	#15
xshadow Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: va Posts: 553	Re: engine help I just see no reason to use the engine while it's smoking. At first I was thinking about just a re ring kit from summit. A cheap fix for the smoking. But a rebuild kit from northern isn't that much more. I really don't think the block is cracked. I'm willing to take the chance if i'm only spending 100.00 to 200.00 for the parts How much more would it cost to take it to a machine shop and have it bored, cleaned and checked out? What should I expect for the shop to charge for there services and how much extra money and work will it cost for parts for the rebuild? Last edited by xshadow; 10-14-2007 at 01:54 PM.

10-14-2007, 02:28 PM	#16
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: engine help you're probablly looking in the $500-$600 range at the machine shop __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY



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10-14-2007, 03:31 PM	#17
xshadow Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: va Posts: 553	Re: engine help Yeah, I don't have the funds for that. I was tinking put the rebuild kit in and a new cam. maybe if I have more money before i need the engine i'll buy some hump heads...If I can find a set that I know are good and there just a bolt on....I know vortec is better for the money but for heads and intake it may get pricy. I'm just looking for a driver with as much power as I can get for the buck. Last edited by xshadow; 10-14-2007 at 03:31 PM.

10-14-2007, 10:12 PM	#18
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,238	Re: engine help i just built a 305 for my 71 bored 30 out with new pistons cam and crankshaft i got a little over 500 just in parts did all the machine work me self in class Attached Images __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

10-15-2007, 06:49 AM	#21
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,238	Re: engine help umm never noticed thats with it t together stock rods and stock cranck __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

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