Suggestions on 70cst restoration? Tips?

[70cstjr]

Originally Posted by mnunn454

Consider a spray-in bed liner of some sort to prevent scratches from the 2X4s and concrete blocks?

i was thinking the same thing..while its in the shop, just have them match it with the dark olive that would look slick

[70cst]

mnunn454 Y
You are right on. I am planning this resto as a nice looking fun truck to drive around. Not a "Trailer Queen." As mentioned...instead of spending money on another truck I have decided to get this 70cst fixed up. It has been sitting in the corn crib "w/cement floors" for about seven years so now it time to get her fixed up. As they say its time to breath new life back into the old Chevy.

[68shortstep]

My vote: SAFETY FIRST: Brakes - tires - steering, chassis & suspension - wipers - lighting - fuel delivery, etc.

Then the more-fun stuff later.

Can't enjoy your truck from a hospital bed or a cemetary, or after it burns down on the side of the road.....

[steveshow]

I came across an article in Car Craft a while back concerning running older engines on newer oils. ( I think it can still be found on carcraft.com). A lot of the additives needed for older non roller cam engines have been eliminated in the itnerest of "the environment". This problem is exacerbated when going to higher spring presures needed with aftermarket cams. Their suggestion was to use a race type oil, or to save a few $$$, diesel oils like Delo or Rotella. They still have the additives needed.

I rebuilt a 355 a few yrs back (sixth SBC engine I have screwed together) w/ a new Comp Cams hydraulic flat tappet camshaft spring and lifter set, used Castrol 30w and wiped out the cam within 10k miles. I followed the break in procedures as usual. I pulled the motor to be sure there was no steel filings from the cam stuck in the piston skirts (it can happen!) and luckily it was OK, but it wiped out my main bearings and crank mains. I swapped in a new crank and an identical Comp cam and lifter set, and Shell Rotella oil. I am close to 10k on this motor and no problems so far.

[dave3156]

They take the radiator and boil it out with some kind of acid or real strong cleaning solution which cleans the internals of it. Then they repaint it black. Makes it like brand new inside and out. I just had a 4 core radiator done it was $60 to have it cleaned out. I had mentioned making sure the radiator is the right size cause our trucks are 40 years old, over that time anything could have been done to them. Mine has a 350 but had a 6 cylinder radiator in it. Worked fine until it was over 100! Switched to a 4 core radiator and it runs 25 degrees cooler.

[70cst]

Thanks for the explaination dave3156...
Again Chevy 67-72 class 101 pays off.

[70cst]

Another question-my truck has a 2" drop in front & -4" drop rear drop...will standard shock be ok?
Will I need the Rear Shock Relocater Kit to keep the 15* angel in line?

[70cstjr]

you will need shorter shocks that way you leave less stress on the regular shock and it will not blow out. and yes you will need the relocation kit, that way the shock has its correct 45 degree angle

[ChevLoRay]

Originally Posted by 70cst

Hey dave3156...
(Pull the radiator, if it is the right size then take it to the radiator shop and have it rodded out and pressure tested.) I am not sure of the 402BB cooling system was any differrent than the others but...what does "rodded out" mean? Good ideas on the cooling system.

I think "rodded out" is an old school term. But my take is that the top and bottom tanks would be removed and a brush then run through the tubes to clean them. However, I think the thing that is done today is to submerge the assembly into a vat that contains the cleaning solution.

A down-side to this is when (as in my case) the radiator guy says, "Hey, come here....lemme show you sumthin". When he submerged the radiator, and added air to the assembly, the cleaning solution looked like it was carbonated. When I finally got the thing back, I had a new 4-row core in it. It had a 4-row to begin with. This was on a '65 C-10, back in '77. Cost as much then to re-core that one as I spent on a new one for my '69 about 6 years ago. I saved the old one, though.

[ChevLoRay]

Originally Posted by 70cst

Another question-my truck has a 2" drop in front & -4" drop rear drop...will standard shock be ok?
Will I need the Rear Shock Relocater Kit to keep the 15* angel in line?

If you use ECE spindles to lower the front, the length of the shocks will stay the same. The only thing that moves is the centerline of the axle, which moves up toward the fender.

In the rear, you will need shorter shocks, if ECE says you do. With the shock relocators, the angle of operation is restored to a more usable range. I am running the KYB shocks that ECE said I needed, and I have nothing but praise for the quality of the ride.

[70cst]

Thanks ChevLoRay...
This is all very helpful info.

[70cst]

Thanks for all the input. I think I have my list almost complete?

[70cst]

Hey....jfalesi
What is the mfg. of your wood wheel?

[70cst]

WOW...It's amazing how much info one can glean from this board in relationship to our trucks. No doubt this site is worth $25 per year. What a bargin!

[70cst]

Ok all you experts...
I'm checking my list....I'm checking it twice! Have I forgotten anything as I am getting close to taking her to the shop.

[70cstjr]

i may be wrong but i dont think i am..if you put in roller rockers they will be too high for the factory valve covers and you will have to go aftermarket high rise valve covers...id say just stick with the original ones, plus rollers are lots of $$$

[70cst]

ttt