alternator up grade - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

sam's 72 · 01-04-2003, 09:14 PM

Guys I know there has been a lot of discussion on this issue, I did a search and found a few but got kind of confussed, I want to get rid of my external regulator and upgrade my chargeing system, I would like to have a complete parts list of what I need, I want to go with at least 100 amp alternator.
and some step by step instructions, I am very very week when it come to automotive wireing, would like to see picture also,
Thanks,
Sam

*Piston* · 01-04-2003, 09:23 PM

About half way down the page I listed a step by step and a TERRIBLE drawing. But it should help you do the job.
Initially I installed mine the same way Longhornmail did his but I kept noticing problems with voltage when my electric cooling fans came on, low voltage. I've since revised the wiring to the schemic I drew and everything is fine. The key is the large output wire directly to the battery or J-block.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=ALternator

barn9 · 01-04-2003, 09:34 PM

Sam, I agree there is a lot of confusing info on this topic. I got a kit at the local O'Reilly's that had the necessary wires, etc, and installation instructions for less than $10.00. Made for a very simple, easy, and quick changeover. If I would have messed around with some of the things I've seen posted, I'd still be scratching my head and trying to figure it out. With the kit and the new regulator, the changeover was done in 15 minutes. The kit doesn't really consist of much, but I considered it to be worth the price because of the time savings and the knowledge that it was done right. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll get the part # for you.

sam's 72 · 01-05-2003, 08:13 PM

ttt

mtdave2 · 01-05-2003, 08:31 PM

why are you guys all changing over? is there something wrong with the old style?

sam's 72 · 01-05-2003, 08:53 PM

mtdave,
On my truck when I come to a stop at night the lights dime a lot and there is a small flicketring going on with them, at idle, once up graded you can go with an internal, regulator, and bigger, alternator, should stop all of this, some guy I have read on here is so bad that the ingnition stumbles a little due to the problem.
Sam

Longhorn Man · 01-05-2003, 11:42 PM

More amps is always a good thing. I know my headlights are brighter since I swapped over.
Plus, it is one less thing to go bad. The externial ones always seem to be rusting and taking a crap. I chainged the one in my old lognhorn 3 times in less than 2 years of driving.

Blue_71 · 01-05-2003, 11:48 PM

i probably did it different from everyone else on here... i left my old (good) external one plugged in, cut the wires, and spliced in the new plug, then bolted on the alt and plugged it in... 18 volts almost all the time (short in the fuse block, the motor shakes it around sometimes)

sam's 72 · 01-06-2003, 12:15 AM

I was looking at the drawing that piston posted, it shows the white wire going to the brown wire comming out the old regulator, I want to completely remove my old regulater, so once I get it out the way, what do I need to do, puty the while with the brown, that was going into the regulator????????
Sam

*Piston* · 01-06-2003, 12:19 AM

The brown wire (going into the cab) goes to the white wire (going to the alternator)

GMC Jim · 01-06-2003, 03:06 AM

More info....!978 Chevrolet Light Duty Truck Service Manaul shows 'Generator Output Test "....#2 (F) connects directly to Battery +....#1 (Relay) connects to a " 10 ohm; 6 watts or better" resistor and then to Battery +..... 'Bat' terminal on alternator connects to one lug of ammeter ; other ammeter lug to Battery +. For test purposes a volmenter is also connected across the battery terminals............
My setup connects Alternator #1 (Relay) directly to Battery +.....Hmmmmm?..... And, the alternator goes bad abput every year.. ( replaced for free per "lifetime warranty" ! )
... Will install the above mentioned resistor ; hope it will prevent alternator burn-out.............. Jim

nate68 · 01-06-2003, 02:31 PM

i bought a powermaster 100amp alternator from scoggin dickey for like 80 or 90 bucks plus shipping

01-04-2003, 09:34 PM	#3
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	Sam, I agree there is a lot of confusing info on this topic. I got a kit at the local O'Reilly's that had the necessary wires, etc, and installation instructions for less than $10.00. Made for a very simple, easy, and quick changeover. If I would have messed around with some of the things I've seen posted, I'd still be scratching my head and trying to figure it out. With the kit and the new regulator, the changeover was done in 15 minutes. The kit doesn't really consist of much, but I considered it to be worth the price because of the time savings and the knowledge that it was done right. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll get the part # for you. __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

01-05-2003, 08:13 PM	#4
sam's 72 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pasadena, Texas, USA Posts: 1,005	ttt __________________ 72 LWB chevy truck. Pasadena, Texas

01-05-2003, 08:31 PM	#5
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,508	why are you guys all changing over? is there something wrong with the old style? __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

01-05-2003, 08:53 PM	#6
sam's 72 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pasadena, Texas, USA Posts: 1,005	mtdave, On my truck when I come to a stop at night the lights dime a lot and there is a small flicketring going on with them, at idle, once up graded you can go with an internal, regulator, and bigger, alternator, should stop all of this, some guy I have read on here is so bad that the ingnition stumbles a little due to the problem. Sam __________________ 72 LWB chevy truck. Pasadena, Texas

01-06-2003, 12:15 AM	#9
sam's 72 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pasadena, Texas, USA Posts: 1,005	I was looking at the drawing that piston posted, it shows the white wire going to the brown wire comming out the old regulator, I want to completely remove my old regulater, so once I get it out the way, what do I need to do, puty the while with the brown, that was going into the regulator???????? Sam __________________ 72 LWB chevy truck. Pasadena, Texas

01-04-2003, 09:14 PM	#1
sam's 72 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pasadena, Texas, USA Posts: 1,005	alternator up grade Guys I know there has been a lot of discussion on this issue, I did a search and found a few but got kind of confussed, I want to get rid of my external regulator and upgrade my chargeing system, I would like to have a complete parts list of what I need, I want to go with at least 100 amp alternator. and some step by step instructions, I am very very week when it come to automotive wireing, would like to see picture also, Thanks, Sam __________________ 72 LWB chevy truck. Pasadena, Texas

01-04-2003, 09:23 PM	#2
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,301	About half way down the page I listed a step by step and a TERRIBLE drawing. But it should help you do the job. Initially I installed mine the same way Longhornmail did his but I kept noticing problems with voltage when my electric cooling fans came on, low voltage. I've since revised the wiring to the schemic I drew and everything is fine. The key is the large output wire directly to the battery or J-block. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=ALternator

01-05-2003, 11:42 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	More amps is always a good thing. I know my headlights are brighter since I swapped over. Plus, it is one less thing to go bad. The externial ones always seem to be rusting and taking a crap. I chainged the one in my old lognhorn 3 times in less than 2 years of driving.

01-06-2003, 12:19 AM	#10
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,301	The brown wire (going into the cab) goes to the white wire (going to the alternator)

01-06-2003, 03:06 AM	#11
GMC Jim Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 901	More info....!978 Chevrolet Light Duty Truck Service Manaul shows 'Generator Output Test "....#2 (F) connects directly to Battery +....#1 (Relay) connects to a " 10 ohm; 6 watts or better" resistor and then to Battery +..... 'Bat' terminal on alternator connects to one lug of ammeter ; other ammeter lug to Battery +. For test purposes a volmenter is also connected across the battery terminals............ My setup connects Alternator #1 (Relay) directly to Battery +.....Hmmmmm?..... And, the alternator goes bad abput every year.. ( replaced for free per "lifetime warranty" ! ) ... Will install the above mentioned resistor ; hope it will prevent alternator burn-out.............. Jim __________________ '71 GMC;fleetside;PB/PS/AC/CC/402 Eng./Custom Paint/110,000act miles/3 fuel tanks(52gal).

01-06-2003, 02:31 PM	#12
nate68 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: ca Posts: 1,110	i bought a powermaster 100amp alternator from scoggin dickey for like 80 or 90 bucks plus shipping __________________ 68 short step, 406/700r4, 9" w/discs.



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