When lifting the rear of a blazer.. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

1969k10stepside · 11-11-2007, 09:57 PM

I'm getting ready to put the lift on the blazer.4" springs up front and I'm going to use 4" blocks in the back..This ain't a blazer that is topless year round,it's actually used in the winter so I'd like it to not sit lower in the back while the top is on.How much do you guys think these old 4wds actually sag with the top on? Keep in mind these are factory springs,not lift springs.Do you guys think 4" blocks with a 1" add-a-leaf with stock springs will make it sit pretty level with the top on it? I'm use to lifting trucks,which don't have the added weight of a top in the back,or a tank full of gas to weigh the truck down either..

vtblazer · 11-12-2007, 07:13 AM

No way to tell, it's all about the spring's you currenlty have on there.

Put the top on, see how it sit's, then do what it takes to cure the issue.

*jojotonka* · 11-14-2007, 07:22 PM

I put 5 1/2 blocks with the add a leaf on the Jimmy a couple years ago. I didn't notice much, if any difference in ride height with the top on or off.

Mike C · 11-15-2007, 07:56 PM

I don't notice any difference really top on or top off. But don't do the blocks. I had 2 1/2" blocks and a 1 1/2" add-a-leaf. The blocks ended up bending the spring perches on the axle housing. I ditched them for 4" springs. Save yourself the aggravation and do the springs first. An added benefit is the new springs are usually a higher GVW than the whooped OEM ones.

69TowRig · 11-15-2007, 10:41 PM

I'm with ^^^ on the block thing.

When I do mine it will be all springs. Blocks put too much leverage on the spring packs and aggravate wheel-hop issues. The only advantage is that they are cheaper than springs. And did I read that right, 5-1/2" blocks on one? Holy Crap!

1969k10stepside · 11-16-2007, 04:06 PM

The blocks are going to be temporary..It's just going to have the blocks for now,and then in the spring when I drive it more frequently again I'm going to put in lift springs...as for the blocks,My '79 has had them for 15 years and have never had any problems with them.

11-11-2007, 09:57 PM	#1
1969k10stepside Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: USA Posts: 21,019	When lifting the rear of a blazer.. I'm getting ready to put the lift on the blazer.4" springs up front and I'm going to use 4" blocks in the back..This ain't a blazer that is topless year round,it's actually used in the winter so I'd like it to not sit lower in the back while the top is on.How much do you guys think these old 4wds actually sag with the top on? Keep in mind these are factory springs,not lift springs.Do you guys think 4" blocks with a 1" add-a-leaf with stock springs will make it sit pretty level with the top on it? I'm use to lifting trucks,which don't have the added weight of a top in the back,or a tank full of gas to weigh the truck down either.. Last edited by 1969k10stepside; 11-11-2007 at 09:58 PM.

11-12-2007, 07:13 AM	#2
vtblazer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Central Vermont Posts: 8,537	Re: When lifting the rear of a blazer.. No way to tell, it's all about the spring's you currenlty have on there. Put the top on, see how it sit's, then do what it takes to cure the issue.

11-14-2007, 07:22 PM	#3
jojotonka Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: lennon, michigan Posts: 162	Re: When lifting the rear of a blazer.. I put 5 1/2 blocks with the add a leaf on the Jimmy a couple years ago. I didn't notice much, if any difference in ride height with the top on or off.

11-15-2007, 07:56 PM	#4
Mike C Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 7,728	Re: When lifting the rear of a blazer.. I don't notice any difference really top on or top off. But don't do the blocks. I had 2 1/2" blocks and a 1 1/2" add-a-leaf. The blocks ended up bending the spring perches on the axle housing. I ditched them for 4" springs. Save yourself the aggravation and do the springs first. An added benefit is the new springs are usually a higher GVW than the whooped OEM ones. __________________ 44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax

11-15-2007, 10:41 PM	#5
69TowRig Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 894	Re: When lifting the rear of a blazer.. I'm with ^^^ on the block thing. When I do mine it will be all springs. Blocks put too much leverage on the spring packs and aggravate wheel-hop issues. The only advantage is that they are cheaper than springs. And did I read that right, 5-1/2" blocks on one? Holy Crap! __________________ -Chris Building a stripper, one part at a time: 1969 K5, 307, 3spd, 3 seats, hard top. Added Pwr Discs, Pwr Steering, Aux Battery, T-case Skid, Lighted Sidemarkers, HEI, Lock-Right Diff, ECE Class IV Hitch, 32" MT/Rs. Parts to Install: Hand Throttle, Console, Tow Hooks, Dual Horns, AM-FM, Dealer Swing-Away Tire Carrier, Gas Tank Skid. Also building a 1950 Willys CJ-3A and off-roading a 2001 Nissan Frontier on 1-Ton Portals...

11-16-2007, 04:06 PM	#6
1969k10stepside Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: USA Posts: 21,019	Re: When lifting the rear of a blazer.. The blocks are going to be temporary..It's just going to have the blocks for now,and then in the spring when I drive it more frequently again I'm going to put in lift springs...as for the blocks,My '79 has had them for 15 years and have never had any problems with them. Last edited by 1969k10stepside; 11-16-2007 at 04:07 PM.



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