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Old 05-16-2002, 02:36 PM   #1
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Post Rear drop with leaf springs

What is the best way to drop my truck about 5 inch's in the rear? I am planning on buying 3inch drop spindles for the front, but do not know what my options are on the rear. I have a 72 lwb with leaf springs. I have heard of flipping the axle over, but I don't even know how I would start that. Are there any modifications I will need to do?
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Old 05-16-2002, 02:40 PM   #2
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Im not sure how well that these are made as I have not used them myself.
But from what I hear people tell me their stuff is top notch.

But at least here is wat you are looking for
http://www.classicperform.com/6092chevtrk.htm
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Old 05-16-2002, 08:27 PM   #3
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This is a 3/5 drop flipping the axle.


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87 Chevy Silverado 4X4
www.geocities.com/chevylwb/chevylwb.html
Aberdeen South Dakota
WANTED: Drop Spindles
F/S: rebuilt Turbo 400 & Aluminum wheels w/ tires


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Old 05-16-2002, 08:33 PM   #4
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72, that is exactly how I want mine to look. How do you flip the axle?
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Old 05-16-2002, 08:36 PM   #5
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define flipping the axle. You need to put the springs under the axle tube, but you can't just turn it over, or the truck would go backwards.

You will have to cut the spring pads off and reweld them on the bottom of the tube. Then bolt the axle up on the top of the springs.

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72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.
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Old 05-16-2002, 08:50 PM   #6
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You can put the axle above the springs and make a "pad" for the bottom of the axle. It should look just like the other pad but reach around the axle and rest on "bottom" of the old pad. Looks alot like a mini C notch. I have a set but I can't get to them to take a pic. Hmmmm... it looks like this but one peice. [_] The axle will fit between these and the bracket will rest on the bottom of the existing pad. The leafs will be at the bottom of all of this. It must seem like I'm babbling but they do exist!

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[This message has been edited by 70 Jimmy (edited May 16, 2002).]

[This message has been edited by 70 Jimmy (edited May 16, 2002).]
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Old 05-16-2002, 10:35 PM   #7
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They sell a kit that is under $100 to flip it. But you should C-notch the frame too. If you have any other questions about it just e-mail me and I will help you out.

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WANTED: Drop Spindles
F/S: rebuilt Turbo 400 & Aluminum wheels w/ tires


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Old 05-16-2002, 11:03 PM   #8
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I think the best way to flip an axle is to weld new perches on the bottom,but if you dont have access to a welder,the flip kits will also work well. I flipped the axle on the longhorn,used direct connection pads& moved the spring hangers down approx 1 1/4" to get it back up a little(im not runnin a frame notch),but have roughly 3" clearance between the axle & frame. If you remove any leafs(I took the flat helper,+ 2 short leaf out of mine),I would reccomend using a set of slapper bars to take care of the wheel hop. Good luck.........69longhorn.
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Old 05-16-2002, 11:20 PM   #9
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72chevy...oh man, that pic really makes me want to go out, buy some '71 axle shafts and rotors...what are those, 17s?

Re: the drop, I used 4" drop leaves from Early Classic. Or you could have the leaves recurved; one of my friends has a '73 Chevy that the previous owner had that done to (back troubles, couldn't step into a high truck).

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Old 05-17-2002, 11:16 AM   #10
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72chevyLwb, Why should I c-notch the frame? I really do not want to cut the frame at all. My truck is not going to be used to carry anything but a 20" freestyle bike, and maybe a cooler. Do I have to notch it? If I do I change my mind on the lowering project.
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Old 05-17-2002, 12:00 PM   #11
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they are 17" American Racing Torq Thrust II's. 17X8 in front and 17X9.5 in back. The reason for the c-notch is so when you go over large bumps at higher speeds the axle won't hit the frame just a little with no load in it at all.

[This message has been edited by 72chevyLWB (edited May 17, 2002).]
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