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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kelso, WA
Posts: 363
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Door Skins
Hey guys I'm a little confused
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1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Winters Ca. 95694
Posts: 4,843
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Re: Door Skins
Yep they are thin but you still need to cut out the old and replace it with the thin I mean new
![]() Kevin LFD Inc. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mesquite, Tx
Posts: 396
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Re: Door Skins
Been doin body work for around 30 years now... cut off the old skin drill any spot welds holding the skin in place...you can weld or use panel adhesive (made by 3-m) for the new skin....and as for as the new skin being thin you have to take in mind it's a reproduction one so you really don't have the metal like the old ones......hope this helps....
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GM 330HP/350, Magnuson 122HH, Tremec TKO 5spd |
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#4 |
Adam B
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Westfield
Posts: 151
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Re: Door Skins
I just did mine and I took an angle grinder to the edges. You don't need to grind too much and you will see the metal separate and start to peel. Then I took a chizel and pried the edges off. It will probably take you 10-15 mins at the most per door.
I also purchase some general 3M seam sealer, the part number was #8500. This worked quite well. There are other seam sealer that will also work from 3M |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kelso, WA
Posts: 363
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Re: Door Skins
Hey thanks a ton guys this really helps... yeah it's thin but I suppose it will stiffen up a little bit once they are on the doors.
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1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Marana, Arizona
Posts: 3,416
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Re: Door Skins
Are they full skins ? or just bottoms ? where did you get them ?
thinking about skins myself just have yet to get past the thinking stage ![]()
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"I feel the need for speed!"... as soon as I am done with my nap. |
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#7 |
Fat Fendered Fleetside
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: WPB, S. FL, USA, Earth
Posts: 718
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Re: Door Skins
I just got new skins , well outer bottoms, but they do seem like they will work great, I'm not concerned that they are a bit thinner than original.
I am more concerned with the replacement inner door bottoms being thinner metal though. Guess I'll just have to wait and see how they come out. While on topic, anyone have suggestions to do the inner door or the skins first. I was thinking I'd replace the inner door bottom first, then replace the skin. Is there some magic secret order that I should go about things?
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71 GMC lwb 56 Big window swb 93 GMC Sonoma (dd) radiused fiberglass fender project for 67-72 |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kelso, WA
Posts: 363
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Re: Door Skins
They are Full skins... window down to floor. I got them from a local guy named Dave, he has a truck shop specializing in 67-72 trucks. DC Truck Parts in Vancouver WA.
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1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Alberta
Posts: 316
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Re: Door Skins
The lower skins I bought were just as thick if not a little better than stock, but my inner pieces were flimsy
Mordachai the way I did it was to remove the rusted part of the outer skin first (I stayed below the body line) and then replace the inner part of the door. The outside flanges of the inner needed a little work to get the right contour but were pretty straightforward. After I welded the outer skin along the body line. A tip for installing skins, use a grinder to take a _very_ small amount of metal away at the fold along the outside, it makes bending the skin over much easier. Also remember not to do it all in one spot, work your way around the door a few times before folding it flat |
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