parts came in! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

special70gmc · 01-08-2003, 09:13 PM

i just got most of my stuff in the mail excluding my BLAZER tank,left rocker panel, and my cab mounts/ core support mounts. i got alot of welding ahead of me. ive seen acouple post around here about redoing parts of cabs and was wondering whats the best method of lineing every thing up correctly so it doesnt look like sh*t when im finished? besides patience lol

special70gmc · 01-08-2003, 09:14 PM

speakers/springs

special70gmc · 01-08-2003, 10:24 PM

no one has any advice? guess ill figure it out any way, but it will be easyier with you guys help.

Dean23 · 01-08-2003, 10:42 PM

I've got a co worker doing my rockers cab corners floor pans, etc plus all the other needed work suck as filling firewall holes and filling my moulding holes as well as the fuel tank hole. So I'm watchimg and learning.

70cst10_05 · 01-08-2003, 11:59 PM

where did you get your parts???im sure the floor pans will be a pain in the a$$, but just to let you know when i did my first one(still have the other side to go) i did no go past the factory seam that runs all the way across the cab, the cab suppports aren't bad the front ones anyway, dunno bout the back yet. but here is a pic.

its the best picture but its all i have right now of the inside

70cst10_05 · 01-09-2003, 12:00 AM

bottom of cab

70cst10_05 · 01-09-2003, 12:01 AM

hope this helps ya, it took us about a day to get the floorpan right

Old Chevy Lover · 01-09-2003, 12:07 AM

I'm getting ready to do my rockers and cab corners. I have done rockers and floor pans once before in a 57 chevy 210.. first side took me what seemed like forever, but the second side was much, much faster.. time and patients did it for me... but I'm hoping that this time will be easier. Basically, make sure everything is supported before you do any final welding. I think on the first rocker I did on the car, I had the door on and off 5 or 6 times. On the second one, I took the door off to cut the old out and fit the new one, put it on to fit everything up nice and straight, tacked everything, and then welded it. Took the door off one more time just to do the welding on the front of the rocker up (the hinge side). Best thing to remember (as this applies to all jobs, especially with all sheetmetal), once you have reached your boiling point when something goes wrong, you have to fight off the urge to go get the 3lb sledge hammer... hahahahahaha

jiggs · 01-09-2003, 12:51 AM

The floor boards are fairly simple, just line them up properly and start welding. Move your welds around the panel to stop too much heat from forming at one spot. Stop every once in a while for a beer or smoke to let the welds cool. Just remember that they will be covered once the truck is complete.

When welding the rockers on, make sure you have the doors on and aligned to the cab. Most aftermarket rockers will fit like sh!t, so the biggest thing is to get the gap correct. Making the rocker fit to the pinch weld comes in a very distant second. A good gap would be the same as 3 stacked pennies. Gap is important, but also make sure the rocker doesn't sit to far in or out compared to the door skin.

Also make sure the front, top corner of the rocker is aligned with the front egde of the door. If not you will have trouble fitting your fender.

special70gmc · 01-09-2003, 05:55 PM

i got all the parts from mother truckers just cause shipping was cheap. i have one more Q/how did you cut out the old material?i mean what tool did you use? i have a sheet metal cutters (electric) i got rid of my torches last month didnt feel like payin 4 them

Old Chevy Lover · 01-09-2003, 05:58 PM

I use one of those little air 3" cutoff wheels. Its small to handle, and can pretty much get get into tight spots. I think I got mine at Lowes for something like $30 bucks. You can get different thickness discs that zip right though sheetmetal.

70cst10_05 · 01-09-2003, 07:45 PM

we used a torch for most of it the only reason is faster and easier, we used an air nibbler for some of it also, tried a cutoff wheel but ours sucks so we went back to the torch.
kevin

01-08-2003, 09:13 PM	#1
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	parts came in! i just got most of my stuff in the mail excluding my BLAZER tank,left rocker panel, and my cab mounts/ core support mounts. i got alot of welding ahead of me. ive seen acouple post around here about redoing parts of cabs and was wondering whats the best method of lineing every thing up correctly so it doesnt look like sh*t when im finished? besides patience lol Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

01-08-2003, 09:14 PM	#2
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	speakers/springs Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

01-08-2003, 10:24 PM	#3
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	no one has any advice? guess ill figure it out any way, but it will be easyier with you guys help. __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

01-08-2003, 10:42 PM	#4
Dean23 68cst_ss490 Join Date: May 2001 Location: edmonton,canada Posts: 1,363	I've got a co worker doing my rockers cab corners floor pans, etc plus all the other needed work suck as filling firewall holes and filling my moulding holes as well as the fuel tank hole. So I'm watchimg and learning. __________________ Dean edmonton,canada a winter wonderland 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche LT cold air intake, performance exhaust, Comp cams cam, jba shorty ceramic headers. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3090973

01-08-2003, 11:59 PM	#5
70cst10_05 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Summerfield, Ks Posts: 741	floor pans where did you get your parts???im sure the floor pans will be a pain in the a$$, but just to let you know when i did my first one(still have the other side to go) i did no go past the factory seam that runs all the way across the cab, the cab suppports aren't bad the front ones anyway, dunno bout the back yet. but here is a pic. its the best picture but its all i have right now of the inside Attached Images

01-09-2003, 12:00 AM	#6
70cst10_05 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Summerfield, Ks Posts: 741	d bottom of cab Attached Images

01-09-2003, 12:01 AM	#7
70cst10_05 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Summerfield, Ks Posts: 741	closer pic hope this helps ya, it took us about a day to get the floorpan right Attached Images

01-09-2003, 12:07 AM	#8
Old Chevy Lover Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Chillicothe OHIO Posts: 717	I'm getting ready to do my rockers and cab corners. I have done rockers and floor pans once before in a 57 chevy 210.. first side took me what seemed like forever, but the second side was much, much faster.. time and patients did it for me... but I'm hoping that this time will be easier. Basically, make sure everything is supported before you do any final welding. I think on the first rocker I did on the car, I had the door on and off 5 or 6 times. On the second one, I took the door off to cut the old out and fit the new one, put it on to fit everything up nice and straight, tacked everything, and then welded it. Took the door off one more time just to do the welding on the front of the rocker up (the hinge side). Best thing to remember (as this applies to all jobs, especially with all sheetmetal), once you have reached your boiling point when something goes wrong, you have to fight off the urge to go get the 3lb sledge hammer... hahahahahaha __________________ Keith 70 Chevelle Malibu SS Clone 468/Auto 72 C10 SWB 350/Auto 13 Camaro SS/RS 6.2/Auto

01-09-2003, 12:51 AM	#9
jiggs poker face Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Posts: 218	The floor boards are fairly simple, just line them up properly and start welding. Move your welds around the panel to stop too much heat from forming at one spot. Stop every once in a while for a beer or smoke to let the welds cool. Just remember that they will be covered once the truck is complete. When welding the rockers on, make sure you have the doors on and aligned to the cab. Most aftermarket rockers will fit like sh!t, so the biggest thing is to get the gap correct. Making the rocker fit to the pinch weld comes in a very distant second. A good gap would be the same as 3 stacked pennies. Gap is important, but also make sure the rocker doesn't sit to far in or out compared to the door skin. Also make sure the front, top corner of the rocker is aligned with the front egde of the door. If not you will have trouble fitting your fender. __________________ If you could kick the person in the *ss responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month.

01-09-2003, 05:55 PM	#10
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	i got all the parts from mother truckers just cause shipping was cheap. i have one more Q/how did you cut out the old material?i mean what tool did you use? i have a sheet metal cutters (electric) i got rid of my torches last month didnt feel like payin 4 them __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

01-09-2003, 05:58 PM	#11
Old Chevy Lover Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Chillicothe OHIO Posts: 717	I use one of those little air 3" cutoff wheels. Its small to handle, and can pretty much get get into tight spots. I think I got mine at Lowes for something like $30 bucks. You can get different thickness discs that zip right though sheetmetal. __________________ Keith 70 Chevelle Malibu SS Clone 468/Auto 72 C10 SWB 350/Auto 13 Camaro SS/RS 6.2/Auto

01-09-2003, 07:45 PM	#12
70cst10_05 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Summerfield, Ks Posts: 741	we used a torch for most of it the only reason is faster and easier, we used an air nibbler for some of it also, tried a cutoff wheel but ours sucks so we went back to the torch. kevin



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