frame disassembly - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*1FaastC10* · 01-08-2003, 09:46 PM

while thinking about how i'm going to do the suspension on my C10, i came up with the idea of disassembling the frame entirely. i would do this to eliminate all of the possible ares that could be missed when i have the frame blasted. would i be able to bolt it back together with Grade 8 bolts, or would i have to use the factory style rivets? also, how does one go about installing factory rivets?

love it loud · 01-08-2003, 09:51 PM

i heard grade 5 bolts are actually better to bolt the frame together with

bigblock73 · 01-08-2003, 10:23 PM

Jeremy, taking the frame that far is a little overkill. I would remove everything that unbolts and leave the rivets alone, besides, the rivets can be a pain to remove...been there done that. Not only that, but when you start bolting everything back together you risk the chance of chipping or scratching your paint even more so cause you will have more pieces to assemble.

I am not saying you can't do it, just trying to make you realize other possibilities.

If you go that route, I would go grade 8 zinc plated all over the place. You can't get grade 8 SS bolts as far as i know and if you use regular grade 8 bolts they will rust and look terrible. Also, make sure to use threadlock or something similar so the bolts won't vibrate or come loose.

Good luck either way.

-Jeff

*1FaastC10* · 01-09-2003, 12:35 AM

just counted the rivets in my frame.... 92... looks like a lot of work, and the closer i look, the less areas there are to miss. maybe i'll just have it blasted, then let it sit outside for a few weeks, and prep it for POR.

**Captkaos** · 01-09-2003, 04:41 PM

I wouldn't do it either. Just pull it down, if you are THAT determined, as far as it will go (I promised myself to never do that again) and get it blasted. I also wouldn't let it sit in the weather. Once mine came back from the blaster, I painted it that next day. It will stick fine. If you only plan to put POR on it, don't leave it in the sunlight too long, it will colorfast. I topcoated mine, 30 minutes after the last POR application, with Gloss Black enamel.

*1FaastC10* · 01-09-2003, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Captkaos
If you only plan to put POR on it, don't leave it in the sunlight too long, it will colorfast. I topcoated mine, 30 minutes after the last POR application, with Gloss Black enamel.

i've got a friend who is a POR dealer, so A) i can get the stuff at a decent price, and B) my truck could be used as a sales too for his business. we've played with quite a few of the products, and its really good stuff, if used correctly. i was thinking of either topcoating in gloss black, or a metallic blue. i've got the color of the truck narrowed down to either black or metallic blue, so the frame will be whichever color the body is not.

**Captkaos** · 01-09-2003, 07:34 PM

I can't tell you number of things I have painted with this stuff. I agree 100%. Next time I need some (probably soon) you gonna hook me up.

*1FaastC10* · 01-09-2003, 10:22 PM

another thing i got to thinking about Chris, is with blasting the frame and then set it outside to rust for a few days... when your frame rusts, that rust holds moisture. POR is moisture curing, so the rustier it is, the better it will adhere. as for the hookup, sorry, but he doesnt ship, just sells locally and through car shows and swap meets.

01-08-2003, 09:46 PM	#1
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,400	frame disassembly while thinking about how i'm going to do the suspension on my C10, i came up with the idea of disassembling the frame entirely. i would do this to eliminate all of the possible ares that could be missed when i have the frame blasted. would i be able to bolt it back together with Grade 8 bolts, or would i have to use the factory style rivets? also, how does one go about installing factory rivets?

01-08-2003, 09:51 PM	#2
love it loud Calibration Engineer Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada Posts: 361	i heard grade 5 bolts are actually better to bolt the frame together with __________________ CANADIAN CONNECTION

01-09-2003, 04:41 PM	#5
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	I wouldn't do it either. Just pull it down, if you are THAT determined, as far as it will go (I promised myself to never do that again) and get it blasted. I also wouldn't let it sit in the weather. Once mine came back from the blaster, I painted it that next day. It will stick fine. If you only plan to put POR on it, don't leave it in the sunlight too long, it will colorfast. I topcoated mine, 30 minutes after the last POR application, with Gloss Black enamel. __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

01-09-2003, 07:34 PM	#7
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	I can't tell you number of things I have painted with this stuff. I agree 100%. Next time I need some (probably soon) you gonna hook me up. __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

01-08-2003, 10:23 PM	#3
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,826	Jeremy, taking the frame that far is a little overkill. I would remove everything that unbolts and leave the rivets alone, besides, the rivets can be a pain to remove...been there done that. Not only that, but when you start bolting everything back together you risk the chance of chipping or scratching your paint even more so cause you will have more pieces to assemble. I am not saying you can't do it, just trying to make you realize other possibilities. If you go that route, I would go grade 8 zinc plated all over the place. You can't get grade 8 SS bolts as far as i know and if you use regular grade 8 bolts they will rust and look terrible. Also, make sure to use threadlock or something similar so the bolts won't vibrate or come loose. Good luck either way. -Jeff

01-09-2003, 12:35 AM	#4
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,400	just counted the rivets in my frame.... 92... looks like a lot of work, and the closer i look, the less areas there are to miss. maybe i'll just have it blasted, then let it sit outside for a few weeks, and prep it for POR.

01-09-2003, 10:22 PM	#8
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,400	another thing i got to thinking about Chris, is with blasting the frame and then set it outside to rust for a few days... when your frame rusts, that rust holds moisture. POR is moisture curing, so the rustier it is, the better it will adhere. as for the hookup, sorry, but he doesnt ship, just sells locally and through car shows and swap meets.



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